1995 GL1500 SE will not start


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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sfritz
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Motorcycle: 1995 1500 SE

1995 GL1500 SE will not start

Post by sfritz »



Hello group, I have a 1995 1500 SE, that I have never had a problem starting. The other day I went to start it, it turned over great, but would not start, not even a sputter. So I walked away and came back a few hours later to notice the kill switch was to off, duh! I never use the kill switch, only the key to turn off. So I thought oh great it will fire up now right away after turning it to run. But again, try try try, cranking with lots of power, but still no start. I thought ok, maybe it was flooded, so the next day tried on a fully charged battery and still no luck. Can someone PLEASE help me go through a step by step diagnostic program to help me solve this issue. I am frustrated as heck and just want to get my bike going again.
PLEASE help you smart Goldwingers!!


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Andy Cote
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Re: 1995 GL1500 SE will not start

Post by Andy Cote »

Welcome to the forum. Where are you from?

The symptoms you describe are most commonly associated with insufficient battery power. The are numerous posts on this. Check your battery connections are clean and tight. Maybe an added battery jump starter (not jumper cables). Choke working okay?
2015 Goldwing, basic black

Previously: GL1200 standard, GL1200 Interstate, GL1500 Goldwing, GL1500 Valkyrie Standard, 2000 Valkyrie Interstate, many other Hondas
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DenverWinger
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Re: 1995 GL1500 SE will not start

Post by DenverWinger »

Welcome to the forum! :)

1500's are particularly sensitive to low voltage at the ECM, if the battery is not at top snuff and there's voltage drops thru the ignition switch and all the connectors in the power reaching the ECM (this is common in 1500's) the ECM simply will not fire the sparkplugs if the voltage reaching it goes below about 10 volts.

Common to hear of a 1500 that doesn't fire when cranking but starts just as you release the start button. What's happening here is the voltage at the ECM is too low while cranking, but when you release the start button the voltage quickly recovers and the ECM can fire the plugs on still-spinning engine.

Try just using the start button in 2 second bursts instead of cranking and cranking. Might start.

If that doesn't do any good with a full charged battery, check for fuel. Work the throttle 5-6 times to squirt a good amount of fuel in the carbs and then hit the starter for a couple seconds. Then go back and sniff the exhaust. If it didn't start due to no spark, you should smell fuel in the exhaust. If no fuel smell, it's possible the fuel pump quit or other fuel issue. I'm thinking not, though, as the bike should have started and run a few seconds on whatever fuel was remaining in the carbs.

Try the above and report back. If it's a fuel problem we'll help you troubleshoot that.
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫ :(
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Re: 1995 GL1500 SE will not start

Post by WingAdmin »

Put a voltmeter on the battery, and see what the voltage reading is WHILE you are cranking the engine.
sfritz
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Re: 1995 GL1500 SE will not start

Post by sfritz »

update for Oct 27, 2:24pm
answers to the questions thus far:

I am from St. George, Ontario, Canada.

My voltage on battery before starting was 13.1. And while cranking it, it was 11.8ish. After trying it several times, it was 12.6.

As per the other suggestion, I cranked the throttle 6 times and then tried starting, and nothing. Then I cranked on the throttle and cranked at same time, and nothing. I stuck my nose to the exhaust and could smell strong gas odour.
I have never used starter button for longer than 5 sec bursts, and I do know the trick of only using start button for 2-3 sec bursts, and usually it fires right up!

Question where and what is the ECM?

I tried what I read in another post about running a jumper from positive battery feed to 'B' connector on fuel pump, and it definately pumped gas. I could hear the pump going and see the fuel filter fill.

To me, it sounds and feels like it is not getting any spark.
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Rambozo
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Re: 1995 GL1500 SE will not start

Post by Rambozo »

Since you say you never use the kill switch, and it got moved, I would try cycling that a bunch of times to get the contacts somewhat cleaned off. If that doesn't work, t would also be one of the first places I would start troubleshooting for a no spark condition. Have you pulled a plug wire and checked for spark?
sfritz
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Re: 1995 GL1500 SE will not start

Post by sfritz »

I did pull the spark plug from the right hand side, the one that is accessible without taking the front fairing off. I plugged it back into the boot, held it against the screw next to the hole and turned it over to see if there was spark, but I did not see any sparking. Is that how you check for spark?
I have already bypassed the kill switch, by unscrewing both wires from the switch, putting them on top of each other and screwing it back into the switch, that should work to bypass the kill switch should it not?
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Rambozo
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Re: 1995 GL1500 SE will not start

Post by Rambozo »

Yes, and yes.
Check Fuses 8, 9, and 11
And relays 3 and 6.
You can also check for power at those two kill switch wires you put together.
Do you have a wiring diagram?
Does the neutral and reverse lights and such work?
sfritz
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Re: 1995 GL1500 SE will not start

Post by sfritz »

I checked all Fuses and relays, all look good.
You can also check for power at those two kill switch wires you put together. Power is going to these 2 wires.
Do you have a wiring diagram? - I do not have a wiring diagram.
Does the neutral and reverse lights and such work? - yes these lights come on along with the side stand light as well.
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Rambozo
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Re: 1995 GL1500 SE will not start

Post by Rambozo »

Looks good isn't the same as is good. I would test them with a voltmeter to be sure.
If you search here there is a 1994 wiring diagram that should be close enough for you. viewtopic.php?t=36724
You can check for power to the coils at C54. Should be ok since you had power at the kill switch, but you should make sure.
What is the battery voltage while cranking? Measure at the kill switch, too. 1500s need a ton of power to start, and it only gets worse as they age and all the connectors get dirty. Once it dips below 11.something volts, things get sketchy. Some folks add a relay to bypass much of the Honda wiring and get battery power right to the ECU/coils. Easier than going through and cleaning or replacing bad connectors. Also be sure to check your ground paths, too.
sfritz
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Re: 1995 GL1500 SE will not start

Post by sfritz »

I checked the fuses by pulling them out and looked to make sure not burnt out.

I checked the relays, by pulling the high beam one, and putting all the others in that location to see if the high beams worked. I am assuming, since the high beams worked as I put them all in one by one, that they are all working properly?

Battery was 13.1 before trying to start, and while cranking it was it was 11.8ish. After trying it several times, it was 12.6.
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Re: 1995 GL1500 SE will not start

Post by FM-USA »

JUST in case you don't have the schematic...
#11 may help narrow down your dilemma.
ALSO check your side-stand switch and Clutch Lever 'barrel' for wear. I had both these create the No-Start issue.
.


sfritz
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Re: 1995 GL1500 SE will not start

Post by sfritz »

If I put up the side stand, the side stand light goes off in the front cluster. Am I safe to assume that the switch is working?

Also, can you please expand on what you mean about "Clutch Lever 'barrel' for wear".

thanks
Steve
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Re: 1995 GL1500 SE will not start

Post by Rambozo »

sfritz wrote: Thu Nov 04, 2021 1:20 pm If I put up the side stand, the side stand light goes off in the front cluster. Am I safe to assume that the switch is working?

Also, can you please expand on what you mean about "Clutch Lever 'barrel' for wear".
No, the switch has two functions, one for the light and the other for the safety. You can check it with a meter to be sure.

There are two common places where the clutch lever wears. One is the brass bushing that the lever pivots on. the other is a brass barrel piece that adapts the master cylinder push rod, to something that looks like a cable hole in the lever. Without lube, this can wear to the point there is a hole in the barrel or the hole in the lever gets worn.
viewtopic.php?t=12622
Either or both of these can make it so the clutch switch isn't pressed. You can tell if you have to hold clutch lever out to engage the cruise control.


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