GL1500 won't crank

[STouring rider]

1997 Gl1500 Aspencade won't start.
New fully charged battery. (12.35vac at rest,11.78 with key switch on).
Key switch "on"
Kill switch set to "run"
Center stand down.
Side stand up or down (dash light operates properly)
Clutch lever in any position
Transmission in neutral (neutral dash light operates according to gear shift position and the rear wheel turns freely with neutral light on)
Reverse lever in the down position ( dash light comes on with key switch then goes out.. does not come on in any position after it times out )Relays will not "click" when the reverse switch is moved from the down position, relay clicks when the handle is down.
Relays 1-7 have been tested and they all close with ~8VDC and open with no current.
Fuses in box by relays good. Fuse 7 from the top never energizes.
Twin 5a fuses left of battery good.
Main 30a fuse right of battery good.
Strip fuse right of battery good.
When the start button is pressed only the relay on the left relay pack "clicks"... No other sounds.
0 VDC across the red and blue terminals on the relay on the right side, near the oil fill cap.
12VDC between each terminal and positive battery terminal.
Interestingly... 0 VDC between either terminal and ground with key off and. O23 VDC to ground with the key on. Apparently, something in the circuit closes with the key but with so many relays and switches, it is difficult to interpret... at least for me.


Troubleshooting advice would be greatly appreciated. I am willing to replace as many solenoids as necessary but prefer to address this issue directly.

[DenverWinger]

Does the bike crank if you jump the two big terminals at Start relay "A", the one by the battery? If so, that tells us the "B" relay by the oil fill is good.

Next step would be to get a meter on the two lines feeding the coil to the "A" relay. If you see voltage there when you press the start button, but relay doesn't click, there's your culprit.

[STouring rider]

Thank you for that advice. I will test the solenoids tomorrow.
Would you happen to have a drawing that shows which terminals are power and which ones are switched?.

Now that I am growing to appreciate the significance of the solenoids on the GL 1500 I want to buy a complete set. Can anyone recommend a source?
Thank you for your help.

[Rambozo]

If you look in the manuals section under GL1500, you will find some nice colored wiring diagrams to guide you.
The solenoids can be found at Partszilla or any number of Honda parts sources, dealers both local and online.

[bellboy40]

Here are a couple pics of the GL1500 start circuit that should help you find the problem.

GL1500 start ckt p1

GL1500 start ckt p2

[STouring rider]

Does the bike crank if you jump the two big terminals at Start relay "A", the one by the battery? If so, that tells us the "B" relay by the oil fill is good.

The next step would be to get a meter on the two lines feeding the coil to the "A" relay. If you see voltage there when you press the start button, but the relay doesn't click, there's your culprit.

Making progress....I jumped the two big terminals on relay "A" and the engine turned over rapidly but never fired in spite of the key switch position. ( apparently no spark to ignition)

No voltage between the small red/yellow wire and the small yellow/red wires
12vac between each small wire and the red wire on the same plug.
the red wire has 12vdc to ground regardless of key switch position.

Question: what is the function of the 30 amp fuse inside the plug assembly? Does it protect the plug and relay? It does not seem to have any wires connected to it and I can see light through the socket. ( Honda sure didn't waste any money on making the wires long enough to work with so why would they waste a fuse?)

I will keep searching the diagrams and my own shop manual and I appreciate any suggestions.

[STouring rider]

Does the bike crank if you jump the two big terminals at Start relay "A", the one by the battery? If so, that tells us the "B" relay by the oil fill is good.

The next step would be to get a meter on the two lines feeding the coil to the "A" relay. If you see voltage there when you press the start button, but the relay doesn't click, there's your culprit.

Making progress....I jumped the two big terminals on relay "A" and the engine turned over rapidly but never fired in spite of the key switch position. ( apparently no spark to ignition)

No voltage between the small red/yellow wire and the small yellow/red wires
12vac between each small wire and the red wire on the same plug.
the red wire has 12vdc to ground regardless of key switch position.
UPDATE: I applied 12vdc to the relay terminals that correspond to the two small wires, as expected, the relay closed and the engine turned over.

Question: what is the function of the 30 amp fuse inside the plug assembly? Does it protect the plug and relay? It does not seem to have any wires connected to it and I can see light through the socket. ( Honda sure didn't waste any money on making the wires long enough to work with so why would they waste a fuse?)

I will keep searching the diagrams and my own shop manual and I appreciate any suggestions.

[DenverWinger]

The 30 amp fuse is the main fuse for bike power, if it's bad everything will be dead.

[STouring rider]

The reverse switch responds properly to the reverse handle position when tested for continuity.
The reverse switch relay bench tests properly.
What next?

[STouring rider]

I never get power to the starter relay "A" R/Y and Y/R wires.

[MikeB]

If you never get 12 volt power to the YEL/RED wires on starter relay A, then power is not being delivered by the starter switch.
Check for proper continuity through the starter switch and see if power is getting to the starter switch.
If continuity is good through the starter switch but there but there is no 12 volt power, then I'd look at the IGN/CRUISE relay to see if 12 volt power is going through it to the starter button.
Make sure that you check for power on both sides of the #11 IGN.START CRUISE fuse. That is what supplies power to the IGN/CRUISE RELAY and the starter switch.

[terryt]

Have you checked the gear position switch. check the black 6 pin plug behind the right hand side marker light. unplug it you can test the switch it tells you how to in the manual clean the terminals and refit.

[STouring rider]

If you never get 12 volt power to the YEL/RED wires on starter relay A, then power is not being delivered by the starter switch.
Check for proper continuity through the starter switch and see if power is getting to the starter switch.
If continuity is good through the starter switch but there but there is no 12 volt power, then I'd look at the IGN/CRUISE relay to see if 12 volt power is going through it to the starter button.
Make sure that you check for power on both sides of the #11 IGN.START CRUISE fuse. That is what supplies power to the IGN/CRUISE RELAY and the starter switch.

Thank you for the help. Sir, I have removed the center piece below the radiator and the lower right faring. I see the connector hiding beneath the upper right fairing but I cannot identify the IGN/CRUSE relay. Will you please tell me where it is located? UPDATE: is this relay #6 on the left ( behind the sadlebag ?

[MikeB]

Yes, the IGN/CRUISE relay is relay #6.

You will have to take the cover off of the Relay Panel to get to the relay. To get the cover off the relay panel, you will have to loosen the left saddlebag to give you enough clearance. There are four 8 mm head bolts inside the saddlebag that need to be removed to move the saddlebag enough to take off the cover. You do not have to take the saddle bag off, just loosen it to pull it away from the frame slightly.

Removing the saddlebag has lots of steps and from your narrative so far, I don't think you are familiar with the process yet.

There are You Tube Videos that will show you how.
Here is one as an example:

   Never miss a video: Subscribe to the GoldwingDocs YouTube channel today!

[STouring rider]

OK, #6 it is, I have tested all of those relays but I will take another look. In my original post: "
Relays 1-7 have been tested and they all close with ~8VDC and open with no current."

I know that at least one relay clicks with the key switch...I want to see if it is #6.

I removed the four saddlebag bolts and used an airbag to hold the saddlebag away from the relay box. it is not that bad once you have done it a few times. Why did Honda put it there? Maybe "carlike" includes being difficult to service.

[MikeB]

OK, #6 it is, I have tested all of those relays but I will take another look. In my original post: "
Relays 1-7 have been tested and they all close with ~8VDC and open with no current."

I know that at least one relay clicks with the key switch...I want to see if it is #6.

I removed the four saddlebag bolts and used an airbag to hold the saddlebag away from the relay box. it is not that bad once you have done it a few times. Why did Honda put it there? Maybe "carlike" includes being difficult to service.

I am sure you know that when you remove and test a relay it is only a test of the relay and there is no guarantee that the voltage that the relay is supposed to be switching is being switched. You naturally must insure that the voltage that is supposed to be switched is at the relay socket and the relay is making good contact in the socket.

Make sure the 15 Amp Fuse #11 is good. That is where the 12 volts is supplied from.

Take a little time and take a second (or third) look at the electrical diagram. You said that you were not getting 12 volts at the YEL/RED wire at starter relay A. Follow it back to see where the 12 volts is actually present. That should lead you to the problem.

[STouring rider]

As recommended I tested the #6 relay and found the automotive relay that I substituted is nonoperative. I replaced the #6 relay with the relay from position #1 ( this relay bench tests "good')
Relay #6 is energized and clicks when the key switch is turned on.
Relay #3 clicks when the Start button is depressed. ( I am considering the start button to be "good".
All the fuses next to the relay block are good, as always, the fuse 7 from the top is never energized.


I am not giving up and I apreciate all the sound advice.

[MikeB]

As recommended I tested the #6 relay and found the automotive relay that I substituted is nonoperative. I replaced the #6 relay with the relay from position #1 ( this relay bench tests "good')
Relay #6 is energized and clicks when the key switch is turned on.
Relay #3 clicks when the Start button is depressed. ( I am considering the start button to be "good".
All the fuses next to the relay block are good, as always, the fuse 7 from the top is never energized.


I am not giving up and I apreciate all the sound advice.

I do not understand why the fuse 7 from the top is in question. That fuse is for the Air Pump and Parking Lights. It should have no effect on the starting of the engine.

[Rambozo]

As Mike said, just because a relay bench tests good and is clicking on the bike, it doesn't tell you anything about the rest of the circuit.
With the key on;
1. Do you have power going into the #6 relay on the white wire? (there are two but they are hooked together, test both)
2. Do you have power coming out of the #6 relay on the green/black wire?
3. If all that tests good, test for power at connector C57. Power in on green/black, power out on red/yellow when start button is pressed.

Just because you hear a click when you press the starter button, doesn't mean it is working. It has two sets of contacts, one to run the starter and one to shut off the headlights. They are independent and one set can be bad while the other is good.