Revival of a '96 Wing that has been sitting for 7 years.

[flanzajr]

Hi all,
I don't post much on the forum because I find everyone else's knowledge very useful, but I have an issue. I recently sold my '83 Interstate and purchased a 1996 Aspencade with 87k showing for a good price but the caveat is that it has been sitting for 7+ years in cold dry storage. I have already purchased timing belts and plan to change all fluids and inspect everything. My problem of course is old fuel in the tank. The PO thinks he added Seafoam to the tank before storing it but it smells like typically bad ethanol evaporation. Can I clean out this tank without removing it and if so, what is the best way to do this? If there is rust on the tank walls what are my options? I have never used Evapo-Rust but I hear this is a good option. Any experience from anyone? Of course, my best-case scenario would be NOT having to rebuild the carbs but I am sure I can do this if necessary. I am a retired Mechanical Engineer with ASE Master Mechanic Certs dating back to 1978. I'm not blowing my own horn just trying to say that I have experience but I'm old and slow now so I want to do as little as necessary to get this bike back on the road.

Thanks for any help in advance and want to let you know this forum is fantastic and I appreciate any and all comments.

Best Regards,
Frank Lanza Jr.

[Rambozo]

If you remove the sending unit you will have good access to the tank to pump out the old fuel and inspect it. If rust is a problem electrolysis is also a good option to remove it. You never know about the carbs, once the tank is cleaned, flush all the fuel lines and replace the filter and see. Seafoam or other cleaner will sometimes take care of minor carb issues after a tank or two, but sometimes not. The vacuum shutoff, may also be bad.

[bohdan]

Evaporust is the key. I sued on my GL1000 and that tank came out spotless. Its pricey. I have a VTX project bike and I tired vinegar on that, on nearly as good as Evaporust. Good Luck!

[WingAdmin]

You can access the fuel pump/sender unit by removing the seat. Remove the output hose from it and put a different hose draining to a pail. You can then power the fuel pump directly with +12V and it will pump out the tank contents. Once you've pumped it dry, you can then begin removing residue and dealing with any rust.

[flanzajr]

Thanks for the quick responses gents. I have heard that there is a sock on the pickup like in an automobile that gets full of gunk as well. What are the ramifications of removing the pump and or sender to clean that and then pump out the tank and inspect as Rambozo suggested? Is the pump gasket reusable or is that an issue as well? I guess I'm hoping that if I can clean the tank and lines well enough, I might be able to run enough Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil through it to keep from having to tear down the carbs.

Thanks Again,
Frank

[Solo So Long]

After 7 years,you're probably due for new fuel lines anyhow, so drain the tank completely, replace the fuel line, then pour in a can of Seafoam and fill the tank, do your other maintenance. Give it a couple of days, agitating the fuel a couple of times each day.

After that, it may or may not start. If it does, it may be really ragged, and then it may smooth out. Watch for leaks.

[Rambozo]

It's a gasket not an o-ring so roll of the dice on reusability. I like to inspect to see how bad it is before using the bike's pump to drain. If it's really bad I don't want that going through the pump and will use an external pump to clean it out. If you're lucky, the tank is rust free with just some old gas you need to change and the sender gasket is fine. Or you may need to scrub out a bunch of gunk, then de-rust and clean or replace the pump and sending unit. It all depends on what you find.

[flanzajr]

Hello all. I've had some health issues to deal with but I'm back on this project now. Pulled the pump tank was really clean except for some minor sludge in the bottom. The bad news is the fuel pump doesn't run when I turn the key on. There is a relay and fusible link under the seat toward the back fender. The relay turns with the key and stays energized until the ignition is off. Is this the fuel pump relay? If so it's not cycling like it's supposed to. Also what is the black gizmo on top of the pump housing and do I have it wired correctly per the pics? I'm thinking it's a diode to prevent feedback but wth? Can I run 12v and ground direct to the fp terminals on top of the housing? Thanks!

[Rambozo]

The fuel pump doesn't run until you engage the starter and the ECU sees pulses from the ignition. It doesn't have a relay and is driven directly by the ECU.
The black gizmo is a noise filter for bikes with a CB.
Yes, you can test the pump by running power directly to it. You might want to do that with the hose going into a bucket to flush out any gunk it picks up, instead of it going into your fuel filter.

[flanzajr]

Thank you! I should first be able to bypass the noise filter as it appears to be in series with the pump wiring to make sure it's not the problem then apply 12v directly to see if the pump runs. I made sure the kill switch was in the run position and did crank the engine over. I did notice that the gas Gauge was not registering even though there is 2 gallons in the tank. Maybe a bad ground. I've already had the pump out to empty and clean out the tank so the gas is fresh and I am running a hose out to a container...actually back into the filler neck. Now I wish I had disassembled the pump when I had it out. So why do folks say the pump should run for 1 to 2 seconds when you turn the key on if it only pumps when the ecu sees an ignition signal? Thanks again all!

[WingAdmin]

So why do folks say the pump should run for 1 to 2 seconds when you turn the key on if it only pumps when the ecu sees an ignition signal? Thanks again all!

The 88-89 (and perhaps 90? I would have to look it up) do this, but later models do not.

[Rambozo]

Typically the stock 1500 gas gauge doesn't read below about a quarter tank. You will see info on bending the float to make this better.

[flanzajr]

So I was able to purchase the factory repair manual thru my local dealer that is specifically for the 1996 model GL 1500 and it says the pump should run 1 to 2 seconds. No matter as my pump is shot and I've ordered a replacement. Maybe we can resolve this question when the new one arrives. Also I need to bleed the rear brake caliper. Is there a way to do it without removing the left side trunk?

[flanzajr]

Thanks again for all your time and effort.
Regards,
Frank Lanza Jr.

[ct1500]

So I was able to purchase the factory repair manual thru my local dealer that is specifically for the 1996 model GL 1500 and it says the pump should run 1 to 2 seconds. No matter as my pump is shot and I've ordered a replacement.

Many have staked and lost their reputations on what the service manual has written in it. Problem is the manuals were often not updated to reflect design changes through the production run. Parts manuals were consistently more accurate. The fuel pump relay is only shown for the 88-89 years which provides the initial Key On 1-2 second prime.

[DenverWinger]

My '93 does not run the pump when key is switched on, doesn't run until Start button is pressed.

[WingAdmin]

So I was able to purchase the factory repair manual thru my local dealer that is specifically for the 1996 model GL 1500 and it says the pump should run 1 to 2 seconds. No matter as my pump is shot and I've ordered a replacement.

Many have staked and lost their reputations on what the service manual has written in it. Problem is the manuals were often not updated to reflect design changes through the production run. Parts manuals were consistently more accurate. The fuel pump relay is only shown for the 88-89 years which provides the initial Key On 1-2 second prime.

Exactly this. There are quite a few inaccuracies in the service manuals because they were not updated when features or things were changed.

[Rambozo]

Copypasta syndrome.

You can bleed the brakes without removing the saddlebag, but I strongly advise against it. It's not much trouble to remove the bag, and if you get brake fluid on the ABS it makes it disintegrate later on. Being able to see is essential to clean, lube and inspect, too.

[flanzajr]

Again thank you all for your input. I was a Honda car tech for a bit in the 70s and again in the 80s and their manuals seemed to be accurate and up to date. I'm a bit surprised by the cycle book. I'll update when I have the new pump in. At least I know the engine is not locked up as it does crank. Onward!
Regards,
Frank

[DenverWinger]

Again thank you all for your input. I was a Honda car tech for a bit in the 70s and again in the 80s and their manuals seemed to be accurate and up to date. I'm a bit surprised by the cycle book.

The car models changed more drastically and more often than the bikes. The 1500 was an essentially 13 year run of the same machine, outside of major electrics/ECM/carburetor changes that happened between the '89-'90 models they changed very little after that. Sadly, same with the service manual. The good thing is the '94 service manual (most commonly found) is mostly correct for at least 1992-2000 models, and applies well for '90-91, but still has cut-and-paste errors that are totally wrong info left over from the '88 and '89 models. The carburetion and electrics are very different in the '88 and '89 models and many of those changes weren't reflected in the newer '90-'00 manuals. Worse is through the '90-'00 years Honda never bothered to fix the errors in the book. Thus the many errors in the '90-on up service manuals. Also, it is very hard to find an original '88/'89 Goldwing service manual.

Body (tupperware) and mechanical parts are essentially the same throughout the 13 year model run.

... And then we have 17 years on the GL1800 bikes, and a variety of options/models. But mostly same bike for 17 years. And in mid-run manufacturing was moved from Ohio to Japan, thus no 2011 Goldwings. Don't even want to guess the quality of service manuals on that, I've never owned one.

As stated above, Cut-and-paste syndrome. The Honda cars make serious changes much more often, and got a branny-new service manual along with each major change. And let's face it, Honda sells many more cars than Goldwings. The Car manuals HAVE to be correct! Complete with addendums.

[Rambozo]

I've seen plenty of factory car manuals with generic stock photos for some sections.

[WingAdmin]

I've seen plenty of factory car manuals with generic stock photos for some sections.

Haynes is famous for this, they will cut and paste sections and pictures for maintenance procedures from a completely different vehicle, as long as the procedure is somewhat the same.

[flanzajr]

Here is an update on my progress. I had to purchase a new fuel pump which is installed along with a new filter. Put 12 volts to it and it ran in the tank with about 2 gal of gas. Removed much of the bodywork to clean out the mouse crap and inspect. Now even though the Trans is in neutral the indicator doesn't light and the bike won't crank over. I removed the left saddle bag to bleed the caliper and found some chewed lighting wire but so far major wiring and vacuum lines seem to be spared. The thing that puzzles me is that I was seeing the neutral indicator and could crank the engine over when I was trying to get the old pump to run. Any help would be appreciated. Also got any ideas as to what the "value added" electronics per the pics might be? The toggle was mounted under the ignition switch cover. And how do you remove the cb face plate?

[flanzajr]

Update! Saw other posts and checked the reverse lever switch. Sure enough it was open circuit in the forward position. I jumpered the terminals and the neutral indicator lit up and the bike cranked and started. Unfortunately after a bit it started spewing gas all over so I'm guessing fuel lines are next.

[WingAdmin]

Unfortunately, when it comes to the "value-added" electronics, you're going to have to trace the wiring to see where it goes to start figuring out what it does! On my GL1500, I ended up ripping out ALL of the "extra" wiring to give myself a blank slate to start from. You might want to do the same.