Parts


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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dlogan56
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Jul 07, 2020 10:45 am
Location: Harrisonville,Missouri
Motorcycle: 1996 GL1500SE Goldwing

Parts

Post by dlogan56 »



Hello ,
I'm in need of a starter for my 96 GL1500SE.
I have checked out the Honda oem starters & the price is crazy - $ 744.00 for a starter.
I've looked at a couple other sites , prices are $600 +/- .( new starters )
My question, is there a site where the parts are more affordable ?, what's your thoughts on rebuilt ?.
I'm also possibly looking to rebuild / buy new clutch .
Thank you for any info that may help me.
Dennis S.


Solo So Long
Posts: 583
Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2020 4:07 pm
Location: Northern Nevada
Motorcycle: 1999 GL1500 50th Anniversary SE
1989 GL1500 FOR SALE
A pack of Super Cubs
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Formerly (in order):
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Kawasaki Coyote (early 1970s)
Honda 350 (mid 1970s)
Kawasaki KZ900-PS (1977)
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Re: Parts

Post by Solo So Long »

We've reached the point where it's cost effective to buy a GL1500 to use as a hangar queen.
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Snowmoer
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Re: Parts

Post by Snowmoer »

Do you have a shop (non motorcycle) in your area that can rebuild it? That would be the cheapest route. Most Alternator shops can do this. It is just an electric motor.

Here are your clutch parts.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/4

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/4
dlogan56
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Jul 07, 2020 10:45 am
Location: Harrisonville,Missouri
Motorcycle: 1996 GL1500SE Goldwing

Re: Parts

Post by dlogan56 »

Snowmoer wrote: Sat Feb 12, 2022 11:00 am Do you have a shop (non motorcycle) in your area that can rebuild it? That would be the cheapest route. Most Alternator shops can do this. It is just an electric motor.
Yes I do , I'll make contact with them on Monday.
My issue is that I had started the bike , pulled it out of the garage, turned off by the key , motor quit but starter kept engaged, ran for four minutes before I could get it stopped , I don't trust starter to be reliable now. Just can't believe a bike starter is as expensive as they are asking. I have purchased the two ( A & B ) silinoids to replace .
Thanks for the help !
Solo So Long
Posts: 583
Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2020 4:07 pm
Location: Northern Nevada
Motorcycle: 1999 GL1500 50th Anniversary SE
1989 GL1500 FOR SALE
A pack of Super Cubs
Z50A (pre-headlight)
Formerly (in order):
Honda Super Cub (bought 1968, sold ?)
Kawasaki Coyote (early 1970s)
Honda 350 (mid 1970s)
Kawasaki KZ900-PS (1977)
Honda Super Cubs (various years)
Kawasaki KZ1000C (1978)
Kawasaki KZ1000P (various years, 1980 - 2005)
Honda 360 (1983)
BMW R1150RT-P (2001)
BMW R1200RT-P (various years 2007 - 2018, NEVER AGAIN)

Re: Parts

Post by Solo So Long »

You mean that you shut off the bike, but the starter kept cranking?

That can only be a start switch or solenoid, not releasing. If it kept going after you turned off the key, it's most likely the solenoid, but you need to test both, and maybe replace both.
dlogan56
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Jul 07, 2020 10:45 am
Location: Harrisonville,Missouri
Motorcycle: 1996 GL1500SE Goldwing

Re: Parts

Post by dlogan56 »

Solo So Long wrote: Sat Feb 12, 2022 11:46 am You mean that you shut off the bike, but the starter kept cranking?

That can only be a start switch or solenoid, not releasing. If it kept going after you turned off the key, it's most likely the solenoid, but you need to test both, and maybe replace both.
Yes, Starter kept engaged after key turned off, I
sent a message to Goldwing docs back in December & was told it was probably one of the two solenoids A or B , should replace both .
The starter ran for approximately 5 minutes before getting it stopped ( by kicking bike in gear ) tried disconnecting main fuse , starter kept running.
I know that couldn't be good on the starter. So thought it would be best to replace.
Solo So Long
Posts: 583
Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2020 4:07 pm
Location: Northern Nevada
Motorcycle: 1999 GL1500 50th Anniversary SE
1989 GL1500 FOR SALE
A pack of Super Cubs
Z50A (pre-headlight)
Formerly (in order):
Honda Super Cub (bought 1968, sold ?)
Kawasaki Coyote (early 1970s)
Honda 350 (mid 1970s)
Kawasaki KZ900-PS (1977)
Honda Super Cubs (various years)
Kawasaki KZ1000C (1978)
Kawasaki KZ1000P (various years, 1980 - 2005)
Honda 360 (1983)
BMW R1150RT-P (2001)
BMW R1200RT-P (various years 2007 - 2018, NEVER AGAIN)

Re: Parts

Post by Solo So Long »

The starter circuit is very simple.

A lead from the Positive terminal on the battery goes to the solenoid, then another lead from the solenoid to the starter motor. These are the fat wires, and there is no fuse in this circuit.

Another lead form the Positive terminal goes to the ignition switch, then to the start switch, then to the "pull-in" on the starter solenoid. Thin wires.

Your symptoms indicate a starter solenoid pulling in but not releasing, or one which has developed an internal short. Either way, contact didn't break, so current continued to flow in the fat wires. Kicking the bike into gear jostled it enough to break contact.

In a case like this, where the starter won't stop going, pull the right side cover and disconnect the NEGATIVE (black) lead at the battery (if you can reach it) -- if you have to, CUT it (about an inch from the terminal is best).
dlogan56
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Jul 07, 2020 10:45 am
Location: Harrisonville,Missouri
Motorcycle: 1996 GL1500SE Goldwing

Re: Parts

Post by dlogan56 »

Solo So Long wrote: Sat Feb 12, 2022 12:07 pm The starter circuit is very simple.

A lead from the Positive terminal on the battery goes to the solenoid, then another lead from the solenoid to the starter motor. These are the fat wires, and there is no fuse in this circuit.

Another lead form the Positive terminal goes to the ignition switch, then to the start switch, then to the "pull-in" on the starter solenoid. Thin wires.

Your symptoms indicate a starter solenoid pulling in but not releasing, or one which has developed an internal short. Either way, contact didn't break, so current continued to flow in the fat wires. Kicking the bike into gear jostled it enough to break contact.

In a case like this, where the starter won't stop going, pull the right side cover and disconnect the NEGATIVE (black) lead at the battery (if you can reach it) -- if you have to, CUT it (about an inch from the terminal is best).
Yes, my first thought was to disconnect the negative cable from the battery, only issue was the four bolts holding down the seat & no Allen wreck handy at the moment , just knew I had to get it stopped , decision at that minute.
I've got the solenoids to replace, will check the starter switch & will definitely see about getting the starter rebuilt , just don't trust it now.
Thx again for the info, so happy to have Goldwing Docs available for research & results.
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Rambozo
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Re: Parts

Post by Rambozo »

You don't need to pull the seat to get to the battery terminals.
BTW if a solenoid sticks like that, often tapping on it will free it up. That is probably what happened when you put it in gear.
The starter is very robust as it was designed for the reverse, which is a lot more load than starting, so I doubt you will find anything wrong beyond worn brushes depending on the number of hours of use. That is one reason it is an expensive starter.
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WingAdmin
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Re: Parts

Post by WingAdmin »

Rambozo wrote: Sun Feb 13, 2022 2:43 am You don't need to pull the seat to get to the battery terminals.
BTW if a solenoid sticks like that, often tapping on it will free it up. That is probably what happened when you put it in gear.
The starter is very robust as it was designed for the reverse, which is a lot more load than starting, so I doubt you will find anything wrong beyond worn brushes depending on the number of hours of use. That is one reason it is an expensive starter.
It depends on the seat. My aftermarket Corbin seat completely covers up the negative terminal, so it has to be removed to gain access:

Seat covering terminal
Seat covering terminal



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