Parts

[dlogan56]

Hello ,
I'm in need of a starter for my 96 GL1500SE.
I have checked out the Honda oem starters & the price is crazy - $ 744.00 for a starter.
I've looked at a couple other sites , prices are $600 +/- .( new starters )
My question, is there a site where the parts are more affordable ?, what's your thoughts on rebuilt ?.
I'm also possibly looking to rebuild / buy new clutch .
Thank you for any info that may help me.
Dennis S.

[Solo So Long]

We've reached the point where it's cost effective to buy a GL1500 to use as a hangar queen.

[Snowmoer]

Do you have a shop (non motorcycle) in your area that can rebuild it? That would be the cheapest route. Most Alternator shops can do this. It is just an electric motor.

Here are your clutch parts.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/4

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/4

[dlogan56]

Do you have a shop (non motorcycle) in your area that can rebuild it? That would be the cheapest route. Most Alternator shops can do this. It is just an electric motor.

Yes I do , I'll make contact with them on Monday.
My issue is that I had started the bike , pulled it out of the garage, turned off by the key , motor quit but starter kept engaged, ran for four minutes before I could get it stopped , I don't trust starter to be reliable now. Just can't believe a bike starter is as expensive as they are asking. I have purchased the two ( A & B ) silinoids to replace .
Thanks for the help !

[Solo So Long]

You mean that you shut off the bike, but the starter kept cranking?

That can only be a start switch or solenoid, not releasing. If it kept going after you turned off the key, it's most likely the solenoid, but you need to test both, and maybe replace both.

[dlogan56]

You mean that you shut off the bike, but the starter kept cranking?

That can only be a start switch or solenoid, not releasing. If it kept going after you turned off the key, it's most likely the solenoid, but you need to test both, and maybe replace both.

Yes, Starter kept engaged after key turned off, I
sent a message to Goldwing docs back in December & was told it was probably one of the two solenoids A or B , should replace both .
The starter ran for approximately 5 minutes before getting it stopped ( by kicking bike in gear ) tried disconnecting main fuse , starter kept running.
I know that couldn't be good on the starter. So thought it would be best to replace.

[Solo So Long]

The starter circuit is very simple.

A lead from the Positive terminal on the battery goes to the solenoid, then another lead from the solenoid to the starter motor. These are the fat wires, and there is no fuse in this circuit.

Another lead form the Positive terminal goes to the ignition switch, then to the start switch, then to the "pull-in" on the starter solenoid. Thin wires.

Your symptoms indicate a starter solenoid pulling in but not releasing, or one which has developed an internal short. Either way, contact didn't break, so current continued to flow in the fat wires. Kicking the bike into gear jostled it enough to break contact.

In a case like this, where the starter won't stop going, pull the right side cover and disconnect the NEGATIVE (black) lead at the battery (if you can reach it) -- if you have to, CUT it (about an inch from the terminal is best).

[dlogan56]

The starter circuit is very simple.

A lead from the Positive terminal on the battery goes to the solenoid, then another lead from the solenoid to the starter motor. These are the fat wires, and there is no fuse in this circuit.

Another lead form the Positive terminal goes to the ignition switch, then to the start switch, then to the "pull-in" on the starter solenoid. Thin wires.

Your symptoms indicate a starter solenoid pulling in but not releasing, or one which has developed an internal short. Either way, contact didn't break, so current continued to flow in the fat wires. Kicking the bike into gear jostled it enough to break contact.

In a case like this, where the starter won't stop going, pull the right side cover and disconnect the NEGATIVE (black) lead at the battery (if you can reach it) -- if you have to, CUT it (about an inch from the terminal is best).

Yes, my first thought was to disconnect the negative cable from the battery, only issue was the four bolts holding down the seat & no Allen wreck handy at the moment , just knew I had to get it stopped , decision at that minute.
I've got the solenoids to replace, will check the starter switch & will definitely see about getting the starter rebuilt , just don't trust it now.
Thx again for the info, so happy to have Goldwing Docs available for research & results.

[Rambozo]

You don't need to pull the seat to get to the battery terminals.
BTW if a solenoid sticks like that, often tapping on it will free it up. That is probably what happened when you put it in gear.
The starter is very robust as it was designed for the reverse, which is a lot more load than starting, so I doubt you will find anything wrong beyond worn brushes depending on the number of hours of use. That is one reason it is an expensive starter.

[WingAdmin]

You don't need to pull the seat to get to the battery terminals.
BTW if a solenoid sticks like that, often tapping on it will free it up. That is probably what happened when you put it in gear.
The starter is very robust as it was designed for the reverse, which is a lot more load than starting, so I doubt you will find anything wrong beyond worn brushes depending on the number of hours of use. That is one reason it is an expensive starter.

It depends on the seat. My aftermarket Corbin seat completely covers up the negative terminal, so it has to be removed to gain access:

Seat covering terminal