steering head bearing torque

[Skeldog]

OK I'm still trying to sort out the ride on the 98 wing I put those Shinko 890 radials on. and rode another 50 miles today in moderate wind and speeds. it still is really smooth up to about 68 mph on the spedometer- I've never verified the spedo but been told most hondas tend to be slower than indicated. anyway usually when I reach 70 to 75 it begins a quick oscilation from left to right. sort of a death wobble I guess you'd call it. never going too extreme but uncomfortable and I need to correct it before I think about putting my wife on the back. I've tried varying suspension air pressures from 17 up to about 40. I've run the tire at about 40 and down to 33 on the front which is what the tag in the trunk calls for without any noticeable difference. maybe it is the Shinko's even though they seem exceptionally smooth. I'd like to see if torqueing the neck bearing might add just enough friction to control it before changing the new tire. I could remount the old one but if that didn't change it I'd just have paid another fee for nothing.if I was to remove the handlebars I guess I could access the nut and even with the wires going through it I think I can customize a socket to do the job. I don't know what the torque should be so if anyone has an idea i'd be interested.outside of changing the brakes and timing belts I've not changed anything that should create the issue other than tires. but it went from being fairly stable and maybe sluggish with the old tires to almost feeling like it is on ball bearings with the new ones. and maybe you shoiuld'nt put radials on this model I don't know

[Rambozo]

With no weight on the front wheel, check to see if you can feel a notch in the steering stem bearings, and any play. You might need new bearings.

As always the first place to start is to look at the How-To Articles section, here.
Has just what you want
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=12367

[Skeldog]

Thanks- that's exactly what I needed

[Limpy45]

Starting with the 1500 series on up, most speedometers are 2-5 mph slower than the actual reading. IE: if speedo shows 70 mph, actual GPS speed is some where between 65 to 68 mph. My 92 1500 was 67 mph GPS at indicated 70 mph. My 99 almost the same. I had the dash all apart couple years ago, took speedo head out and set it so it shows dead on from 60 to 70 mph. It is slightly faster indicating than actual at 40, but thats okay with me. My 80 GL1100 standard I used to have was dead one with GPS at any speed! So was my 79 GL1000. Weird huh?

[Andy Cote]

Great advice from Rambozo.

First, buy a service manual. This site is a great resource, but you need the manual as well.

If all was good before, then the logical conclusion is the most recent work. I would recheck the proper installation of the wheels (front and rear). There is a specific sequence and torque values for the involved bolts. Did you do it or someone else? Was the driveline serviced while the rear tire was off?

I think it's been said before but not many strong proponents of Shinko tires on this bike. But before we trash the Shinkos, some other things to check:

-Check fork seals, bushings and oil.

-Check rear shock for leaks and proper mounting.

-Check swingarm bushings.

-Check wheel bearings.

-Check the brake calipers for proper clearance as per the manual.

If you decide to replace the steering stem bushings, you can use ball bearings or tapered bearings. The installation and torquing methodology are completely different. Follow the proper instructions.

[bellboy40]

In addition to what has already been said about what to check next, I would like to offer this observation.
When you replace old worn tires with new ones, the bike will feel like it has power steering until you get used to how it rides again. The old tires will have worn so they have a flatter profile you are riding on and it offers more resistance to your steering inputs. The new tires will have a more rounded profile and will feel quite different from what you were used to.