Front brake caliper pins

[slackr01]

I am trying to replace my brake pads on the front wheel. The left side was no problem, the pins that hold the pads came right out. The right side is a different story. Both of the pins are seized and I have stripped the hex head on one of them. I tried using PB blaster to get them to break loose but have had no luck. I am thinking that I will have to drill out the heads but am worried about destroying the threads so I though I would check with you all. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[DarthJ]

Do what you got to to get them out. As long as the threads in the caliper are OK, you can get new pins, they are around 10 bucks online. If the caliper threads are ok after, a bit of anti sieze on the threads should help for the next time.

The manufacturer of those really dropped the ball, I love how easy-peasy the rear pads are to change, but those screw in front pins are a nightmare. Thr heads on mine are pretty much ruined as well.

[MikeB]

The pad pins seize because someone tightened them too tight when they last installed them. The pad pin bolt has a beveled seat and is only supposed to be torqued to 13 ft-lb/18 N-m and the plug is installed to keep the pin secure and it is torqued to 1.8 ft-lb/2.5 N-m.

That beveled seat is what sticks when you try to remove an over-torqued pad pin bolt.

The pad pins are relatively easy to drill out. Since you have replaced the pads on the left side you know what the pad pins look like.
I don't remember the diameter of the shaft but if you use a drill bit larger than the pin yet smaller than the diameter of the bolt threads. You can drill through the head of the bolt to the pin. That will release the tension on the beveled seat and the threaded part of the pad pin bolt will come out easily.

When you use a drill that will fit in the socket head on the pad pin bolt will automatically center the drill bit when you drill it out. At least that was my experience when I had to drill out the pad pin that seized on me. That has been my experience.

[DarthJ]

The pad pins seize because someone tightened them too tight when they last installed them. The pad pin bolt has a beveled seat and is only supposed to be torqued to 13 ft-lb/18 N-m and the plug is installed to keep the pin secure and it is torqued to 1.8 ft-lb/2.5 N-m.

That beveled seat is what sticks when you try to remove an over-torqued pad pin bolt.

The pad pins are relatively easy to drill out. Since you have replaced the pads on the left side you know what the pad pins look like.
I don't remember the diameter of the shaft but if you use a drill bit larger than the pin yet smaller than the diameter of the bolt threads. You can drill through the head of the bolt to the pin. That will release the tension on the beveled seat and the threaded part of the pad pin bolt will come out easily.

When you use a drill that will fit in the socket head on the pad pin bolt will automatically center the drill bit when you drill it out. At least that was my experience when I had to drill out the pad pin that seized on me. That has been my experience.

I try to be obsessive about torque in places that count like that, but let a shop do it ONCE and apparently they tighten the pins to 15 ugga duggas. Thanks for the tip, I'll order new pins and give it a try.

[MikeB]

You are 100% correct. That is the one time I had mine seize because I had the Honda shop replace my pads when it was due the first time.
Since then I've replaced them myself every time. And I've never had a single one seize on me. And that's on three different GL 1500 goldwings totaling more than 350,000 for the three.

[slackr01]

Thanks for the help. I will give that a try.

[shmerick]

I recently had the same problem; stripped allen head in the pins. My solution was to hammer in a star bit, apply direct heat from a propane torch for about 15 seconds, break the pin loose with a ratchet or breaker bar and then use an electric impact ( or a hammer drill on low clutch setting ) to back the pin out. Penetrator oil is your friend ( apply AFTER torch use for best results).Just be sure the star bit is in as far as possible or it may strip as well. You may have to drill out stripped hole just a bit depending on what star bit sizes you have available. I'd recommend replacing the pin after extraction.

[slackr01]

I finally got the hanger pins out using an easy out and some heat. Question is now do I need to rebuild the caliper since I heated it up?

[MikeB]

I don't think you need to rebuild it, I think you just need to replace the fluid.