Cruise control not working but both lights light up.

[alca]

HI All
1500 Goldwing 1991 DIY Trike Conversion
Hope you can help with this one, I can set cruise control and get the set light to go on, but the cruise is not working.
Have had carbs off to clean and checked the vacuum pipes at the same time and all is good.
If I attach a pipe to the vacuum unit I can manually get the diaphragm to move by applying vacuum to it (suck on pipe).
My question really is, if the cruise on light and the set light is working what else would stop it holding the set speed.
This is not a new problem that has just appeared, the cruise has never worked since I have had the trike and have tried a few times to get to the bottom of it, and thought I had found the problem when I found the set light bulb had blown and replaced the bulb now it lights but still no cruise working. Many Thanks for your help.

[bellboy40]

It seems to me like the trouble would be in the vacuum part of the cruise since the "cruise set" light comes on when you try to set the cruise. I am attaching a file I have that shows how to trouble shoot the cruise control system. I'm not sure where I got it but I have had it for several years but never needed it. I would start with the sections near the end where it has the tests for the solenoid valves and vacuum systems.
Good luck!

GL 1500 Goldwing Cruise Control Description & Tests
Cruise Control System Overview.
Detail Cruise Control system.
This document covers the cruise control system as fitted by the factory. The system comprises various components and includes the following:
Master control unit
Actuator switches (handle bar mounted)
Safety switches
Vacuum system
Each part will be discussed within the document to give you as much information as possible

The Master control unit.
The master control unit accepts all the system inputs and gives various outputs to control the vehicles speed. The master unit is principally a microprocessor that has its own software built on board. The unit monitors the inputs from the actuation and safety switches and offers outputs to control the vacuum valves and cruise indicator lights.
The Actuator switches.
The actuator switches mounted on the right side handle bar control unit allow the system to be armed by the cruise on switch and speed controlled by the set-deceleration / resume-acceleration switch.
Safety Switches
Various safety switches are employed within the system and are as follows
Front brake cruise cancel
Clutch cancel
Throttle cancel
Rear brake cruise cancel
4th gear switch
5th gear switch
In this section it must be noted that the 4th & 5th gear switches are inside the engine and can only be tested from the outside, there is no need to dismantle the engine unless you really feel the need. Throttle switch
The throttle switch will disengage the cruise control system if turned fully in the deceleration direction.

The front and rear brake switches
If either/both the brake switches are depressed the cruise system will cancel automatically
The Clutch switch
The clutch switch works in the same way as the Front and rear brake switch
4th and 5th Gear switches
The 4th and 5th gear switches are mounted within the engine the switch has an output to every gear position including the neutral position for clarity we have only shown the neutral.4th and 5th gear positions.
The full testing guide, which you can use at your own risk, can be downloaded as a printable Word Document. The document comes with pictures to help you find your way around.
It must be understood by you, that the use of this Technical help file is used entirely at your own risk, no responsibility or liability can be placed on the writer whatsoever.

Before you get started you should have read the introduction on the page you have just left, this gives an overview of the system. All terminology regarding left and right assumes you are sat on the vehicle and facing forward. You will need to take off the seat of the vehicle, towards the rear of the seat there is a plastic cover box on either side and look identical, on the right side of the vehicle is the cruise control box with the plug we need access to. Unclip the box from the holding bracket and open the unit by the self locking clips. Inside the box will be a plug and socket. Once open, unplug the plug and socket and take the box away and put it in a safe place.


















The photo shows the plug disconnected. . The part to the left (plug) goes to the cruise control unit, the right (socket) goes into the main wiring loom to the safety, control switches relays and vacuum system solenoids. This is where we carry out all the electrical testing from. If you want to know where the control unit is located, well it's right under the trunk and a bit of a pain to reach.... but at this stage you don't need to go there. As you look at the photo I have added PIN numbers to the picture to allow you easy reference to the socket. Warnings PINS 2, 3, 4, 5, 11, 14, 15, 20 SHOULD NOT BE TESTED.
Lets get started with the tests.....
The first test is to ensure that we have a supply available to the cruise control unit, this is carried out with the test meter set to read DC Volts. The Red test probe should be connected to Pin 17 and the black test probe connected to the frame. Turn on the ignition switch and press the cruise ?ON? switch to activate the cruise control system, the meter should then read approx 12 Volts.
Turn off the Cruise ?ON? switch and the Ignition switch. Take out the ignition key and put it in your pocket.
The following tests should be carried out with the test meter set to read Resistance or buzzer.
Do Not turn on the ignition or Cruise ?ON? switch unless told to do so

Cruise set /deceleration & resume/ acceleration Switch's
The first test to be carried out is the operation of the set/deceleration & resume/acceleration switches. This is accomplished by putting the Red test probe to Pin 17 and the Black test probe into Pin 21 Push the set/deceleration switch the meter should then show a low resistance or buzz (if available). Change the black test probe to Pin 22 and push the resume/acceleration button the same readings should occur as for the Push the set/deceleration switch.
Change the black test probe to Pin 16, you should show a resistance of around 95 ohms, if you do then relay 2 coil is fine.
Clutch Switch
To test the clutch switch operation we need to put the Red test probe to Pin 17, change the black test probe to Pin 12, when the clutch switch is pulled in the meter should show a low resistance or buzz (if available).

Throttle, Front and rear brake switches
The next bit needs a little explanation so you are aware of whats going on. The throttle, Front and rear brake switches are wired in series this means we can test all of them at once, these switches are the safety circuit which holds in relay 2 (the cruise set relay) which applies the live feed to the vacuum solenoids.
To test this circuit we need to put the Red test probe to Pin 17, change the black test probe to Pin 6, The meter should be showing a low resistance or buzz (if available), when the front brake switch is pulled in the meter should show a high resistance or the buzzer (if available) should stop, releasing the brake lever should turn the buzz back on, repeat the test for the rear brake lever.
The throttle is tested by turning the throttle all the way down (in the decel direction) and the same results should occur
If you do not hear the buzzer straight away, one of the switches or cables between them is faulty.
Cruise system indicator lights (Dash panel)
Place the Red test probe in pin 17, turn on the cruise ?ON? switch (right handlebar switch), place the black test probe into Pin 18, the meter should read approx 11 ohms. this tells you that the ?cruise on indicator lamp? is fine. Now Place the black test probe in pin 7, the meter should read approx 11 ohms again, this tells you that the ?cruise set indicator lamp? is fine.
4th and 5th Gear Switches
The 4th and 5th gear switches are mounted within the engine but can also be tested from the socket. with the red test probe connected to Pin 10 and the black test probe to the frame, begin to take the bike into 4th gear, you may need a hand to work the back wheel to get there, once you do the meter should show a resistance of 0 ohms, change the red test probe to Pin 9 and go up to 5th gear, the test should have the same result.
Solenoid Valve testing
To test the solenoid valves on the vacuum system follow the procedure as follows;
The Red test probe should be placed in Pin 8, the black test probe in Pin 19, you should read a resistance value of approx 82ohms. This tests the solenoid valves for the Vent and Vacuum valve.
The Red test probe should now be placed in Pin 8, the black test probe in Pin 13, you should read a resistance value of approx 82 ohms. This tests the solenoid valves for the Relief valve and Vacuum valve.
The Red test probe should now be placed in Pin 13, the black test probe in Pin 19, you should read a resistance value of approx 82 ohms. This tests the solenoid valves for the Relief valve and Vent valve.
If the readings above are correct your vacuum valves are fine, this covers the testing of the electrical system other than relay 2 latching circuit connections, this is due to the relay being driven by the cruise control unit. This could be achieved by putting a shorting wire across the open connections of the relay base but this is not worth doing unless you know which terminal to put it across. If all the above tests are fine then its down to either the vacuum system or the cruise control unit itself, I know you don't want to know this but the unit costs around £700.00. so be sure you test everything. you can Reassemble the plug and socket, put the cover box back in place. but do not replace the seat yet
Testing the Vacuum system.
To test the vacuum system you will need to have the engine running, Firstly take off the left side inner fairing to gain access to the solenoid valve assembly, This is easily locates and looks like a black steel block with a vent, pipes and cable coming out of it, disconnect the pipe that goes down to the actuator body, start the engine, and suck on the open end of the pipe very gently (or you may rupture the diaphragm) once you start to suck (gently) the engine revs should increase, if this occurs without losing the vacuum in your mouth put your tongue over the pipe. This should maintain the vacuum and stabilize the engine rev's. If it does your vacuum system would appear to be working fine from the valve assembly, However the fault could lie in the pipe work prior to the valve assembly. That's when you want the Professional help ( have you seen the amount of pipes on the engine ) trust me don't go there.

[Rambozo]

Could be too many wheels.

[alca]

Many thanks Bellboy40, I will give your great input a try hopefully somewhere along the way I will find the cause will get back on here when I get a result one way or another.

[alca]

Hi Rambozo, you can never have too much rubber on the road