I think I may have a carburetor problem

5150Jim · Post by **5150Jim** » Mon Jun 06, 2022 3:17 pm

I was out on my ‘94 GL1500 today & pulled on to the hwy and there was some traffic coming so I accelerated to almost red line and hit 2 gear and the bike bogged down and never recovered.
At first, I thought I may have fouled a plug but I did notice that if I used the choke, it would run okay for a short time.
Any thoughts?
Can I clean the carburetors out somehow and how hard is it to get at them?
Also, I have checked all the GL1500 HOW-TO/DIY here but can't find any that say how to clean the carbs.
TNX, Jim

MikeB · Post by **MikeB** » Tue Jun 07, 2022 12:04 pm

I think the first thing to do would be to check the fuel filter. As long as you're in there, if you haven't replaced it recently go ahead and replace it.

The next thing I would check is the vacuum operated petcock which is right underneath The fuel filler door and forward of the gas tank cap.

There is a procedure in the service manual for testing that valve. If you don't have a service manual, bypass the valve by disconnecting the input fuel line and connecting it to the output side fuel line, then do a test drive.

The vacuum operated petcock has a rubber diaphragm inside. The valve can be rebuilt. The rebuild kit costs about $20.

5150Jim · Post by **5150Jim** » Tue Jun 07, 2022 8:16 pm

That's great info. I'll check it out tomorrow and post back.
TNX

5150Jim · Post by **5150Jim** » Wed Jun 08, 2022 4:00 pm

Okay, I need to drive into town and get a new fuel filter (just to replace it) and also take the plastic off before I do anything to it.
So it looks like it will be next week before I can start on it.

YouTube · Post by **WingAdmin** » Wed Jun 29, 2022 2:21 pm

Did the filter fix things for you?

5150Jim · Post by **5150Jim** » Thu Jun 30, 2022 11:09 am

Things have been crazy... I just started a new job this past week but I did get the air & fuel filters out.
Now I'm looking at putting in a piece of copper right from the fuel tank hose to the input hose to the carbs.
That will test the filter and the petcock. Still haven't gone into town.

I tried to post the picture a few days ago from my phone on lunch but was rushed and didn't see attachments tab

MikeB · Post by **MikeB** » Thu Jun 30, 2022 12:43 pm

Looking at the picture, that filter looks like it could stand to be replaced. But there is always the possibility it is still passing fuel and the Petcock is defective.
As I said earlier, it can be rebuilt. However, if you want to bypass it as a test, you do not need any other hardware. Just disconnect and reconnect the hoses.
See the picture below:

5150Jim · Post by **5150Jim** » Sat Jul 02, 2022 1:43 pm

I did order a new fuel filter & air filter but they are in route.
I did bypass them both & will take it out for a quick test ride today.

5150Jim · Post by **5150Jim** » Tue Jul 05, 2022 6:25 pm

I bypassed the auto petcock and the fuel filter. BTW new fuel and air filters should be here Thurs.

I also sprayed carb cleaner in the carbs but my bike still won't go over 25 MPH. I can use the choke and it will give me a little boost for just a sec or two.

I did take my bike out for a test ride today.

It runs but I still think there is something plugging up something.
I was thinking float bowl, but it looks likes there isn't any.
I did find something interesting... A smashed vacuum line under the air filter box

So I did put the petcock back inline and I'm hoping someone has an idea.
One last photo of the carbs before I cleaned them and the white fitting is where the smashed vacuum line goes but I don't think that is a problem because it was smashed in there for years and this loss of power is new.

Open to any ideas
TNX

PS. I did take out the cruise control filter and will clean and oil the mesh and put it back after I get my bike running again.

Rambozo · Post by **Rambozo** » Tue Jul 05, 2022 10:14 pm

How full is the fuel tank? (A full tank will sorta run without a fuel pump)
Maybe the fuel pump is weak or dead. Measure the fuel pump pressure and take it out for a test ride and see if it maintains pressure. A carb problem is less likely as the odds of both carbs going out all at once is....

5150Jim · Post by **5150Jim** » Wed Jul 06, 2022 7:48 am

TNX for the input and I did check the fuel pump. I did start it up without the fuel filter and can see the temporary clear gas line fills up instantly.
I also had a little surprise when I put the petcock back in-line but for got to put the clear line back. Gas shot out real nice

I don't have video of the gas shooting out but here is after I put the clear line back.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipN ... QrMqwMlYJ9

89Wing1500 · Post by **89Wing1500** » Wed Jul 06, 2022 7:36 pm

Hello. I’m new to this forms. I just got myself an 1989 Gl1500 with a California side car and I would very much appreciate some guidance on a good carburetor cleaning tech. Im in the marine field and I don’t dare to clean this one. Thank you

5150Jim · Post by **5150Jim** » Thu Jul 07, 2022 2:35 pm

Okay, now I'm really in need of help. I have replaced the air and fuel filters and have run out of ideas.
Also, I can't get the screws loose on the top of the carbs.
And I'm not sure what I will find even if I get them out.
How do I get the jets?

This was taken before I cleaned the top but you can see the screws. I tried a PH2 but I can't get them loose.

Rambozo · Post by **Rambozo** » Thu Jul 07, 2022 2:50 pm

For starters they are not PH2 (Philips) but JIS.

5150Jim · Post by **5150Jim** » Thu Jul 07, 2022 2:52 pm

TNX, I think I have some JIS #3

MikeB · Post by **MikeB** » Thu Jul 07, 2022 2:56 pm

I have never removed a carb from a Gold Wing and have never had the need to try. When I had carb problems, I took it to the Honda shop near me and had them do the work. It was pricey but worth it to me.

Since I have never had to the opportunity or need to disassemble a Gold Wing carb, I really cannot offer much in the way of help. But, if it were me and I wanted to start taking the carb apart, I'd remove it from the bike first.

ncdave · Post by **ncdave** » Thu Jul 07, 2022 2:58 pm

get something like this for the screws. it's VERY handy to have.

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Reversible-M ... =1-17&th=1

5150Jim · Post by **5150Jim** » Thu Jul 07, 2022 3:01 pm

YES!!! I have one back in the 70s... It worked great.

YouTube · Post by **WingAdmin** » Thu Jul 07, 2022 3:28 pm

I would get one like this - it's a high-quality JIS driver, with an impact core:

https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megadora- ... ref=sr_1_4

I have this exact one, and it works extremely well.

RockportDave · Post by **RockportDave** » Sat Jul 09, 2022 10:55 am

If the screws on the carbs have never been off. They are very tight. The hammer impact and JIS screw driver tips are a must.
When I got my 1999, it took a full tank of fuel to go 50 miles and the 3rd time I got to the carbs, I went ahead and removed them, soaked them in Berrymans carb dip and replaced everything in the carbs that is removable, except the floats, with OEM parts. You are almost there, so removing them could be an option.
I also replaced the carb to intake boots, the rubber heat insulator under the intake and checked EVERY vacuum line. I found line 1 had a hole in the preformed 90° turn causing my bike to surge at idle. Before I replaced the idle air screws, I used a Dremel to cut a slot in the top of the screws for adjustment later.
If you do decide to over haul carbs, when removing adjustable screws, count the turns so you can install them on the same settings.
You will need a long (1’-2’) Phillips screw driver to loosen the clamps on the carb to intake boots. I bought a set at Harbor Freight pretty cheap. I also bought a set of long needle nose pliers to get the hose back on the bottom of the the air box. It is on the front, right bottom of the box and a **** to get on without the long pliers.
After I got mine adjusted out it has run flawlessly for 4 years now.
The photos below show the rubber heat shield, carbs before soaking with jets broken off from trying to remove them, carbs after soaking, and the cardboard I cut to set the floats. Also, the hole in the vacuum line.
To adjust the idle air drop, I used a flexible long screwdriver, going in above the radiator to get to the slots I cut into the idle air screws.
Removing, rebuilding and adjusting the carbs is not too difficult if you take tour time and do it right the first time. It’s also a great time to check all vacuum lines.
Dave

5150Jim · Post by **5150Jim** » Sun Jul 10, 2022 5:42 am

Thank you, thank you, thank you... THIS IS GREAT INFO!!!
Okay, now that I have come back to earth, I will say that I did rebuild the 4 carbs on my 1980 GL1100 a few years back and it ran fine for many years until I sold it a year ago. My wife really loves the GL1500s that we have owned.
I'm a shade tree mechanic (and have been tinkering with motorcycles since the 60s) and also I did mill the block by hand on the 1980 when I first got it because someone overheated it.
So, this shouldn't be hard to do, just time consuming.
Also, I too have the (Harbor Freight) long screwdrivers and long needle-nose pliers
Thank you again

PS. My father-in-law loaned me his impact driver

YouTube · Post by **WingAdmin** » Mon Jul 11, 2022 11:00 am

5150Jim wrote: ↑Sun Jul 10, 2022 5:42 am Thank you, thank you, thank you... THIS IS GREAT INFO!!!
Okay, now that I have come back to earth, I will say that I did rebuild the 4 carbs on my 1980 GL1100 a few years back and it ran fine for many years until I sold it a year ago. My wife really loves the GL1500s that we have owned.
I'm a shade tree mechanic (and have been tinkering with motorcycles since the 60s) and also I did mill the block by hand on the 1980 when I first got it because someone overheated it.
So, this shouldn't be hard to do, just time consuming.
Also, I too have the (Harbor Freight) long screwdrivers and long needle-nose pliers
Thank you again

PS. My father-in-law loaned me his impact driver
PXL_20220709_234227148.jpg

Make sure you use JIS screwdriver bits with that impact driver, not the Philips ones it comes with. A philips bit will mangle the soft JIS screws used in your carb as it tries to remove them.

5150Jim · Post by **5150Jim** » Wed Jul 13, 2022 1:28 pm

Okay, I guess I don't have JIS bits
For as many years I have been work on Japanese bikes, you would think I would own Japanese Industry Standard bits...

Now it's going to be another week before I can work on my carbs

What are CR-V bits?

Also what size JIS bit do I need for the top plate?
I think JIS #3

PS. I just called the local auto parts store and they don't carry them but one of my neighbors I think he sells SK, Snap-on, Matco tools (one of those truck selling tools guys) but I'll have to wait until he comes home for the evening...

RockportDave · Post by **RockportDave** » Wed Jul 13, 2022 2:45 pm

Mine are Vessel brand. Bought a set online. I use the JIS on regular Phillips heads also and it works better. You will definitely feel a difference when using them.
Dave

Rambozo · Post by **Rambozo** » Thu Jul 14, 2022 12:52 pm

5150Jim wrote: ↑Wed Jul 13, 2022 1:28 pm What are CR-V bits?

Cr-V = Chrome Vanadium
The type of steel the bit is made from. From what looks like an asymmetric profile in your photo, it looks to be one of the many flavors of security screw bits.

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