1999 GL1500 Rear brake adjustment

[VWGene]

I recently replaced the front and rear brake pads due to a low pedal (decreased braking pressure). All pads were worn compared to the OEM replacements. Now, after properly bleeding the calipers, the rear brake pedal is still low. There are no leaks in the system or signs of expanding brakes hoses. I’ve read the manual and couldn’t find anything about adjustments. What can be done to increase the braking pressure.

[Rambozo]

Nothing to increase pressure except press harder on the pedal or add a booster. Pedal position is adjustable a little. If the rotor is warped at all the pads will retract too much so the pedal will be low. Stainless brake hoses do make a big difference. Brake hose expansion is barely detectable with a micrometer, but it is there.

[No1uno]

I just went through and changed the Clutch Reservoir, the Front Brake Reservoir and the Rear Brake Reservoir with new DOT 4 fluid and I used the pump to bleed the brakes and what a difference... When they say old fluid will make your brakes seem dead, they were right. Once I took the time and bleed them all and applied pressure to the back brake pedal and tied a zip tie around the front brake lever overnight, the next day it was like night and day!!! I did not have to replace any pads just the fluids..
I do not know if you did this but you need to try it.... it worked for me.

Thanks

[VWGene]

Thanks. I’ll try changing the fluid.

[Andy Cote]

New fluid can help quite a bit. The GL1500 can be difficult to properly bleed the pedal brake lines as they feed two calipers. Start with the front.

[RockportDave]

Using a vacuum bleeder is the best way to bleed the brakes. You can get a cheap one at Harbor Freight that works well.
The foot pedal controls the front right and the rear brake. For the foot pedal, bleed the front right first then the rear. The hand lever controls the left front brake.
Don’t let the reservoirs run out of fluid while bleeding.
Using the vacuum bleeder should restore the pedal height and give you good brakes.
Dave

[Solo So Long]

Using a vacuum bleeder is the best way to bleed the brakes.

The best CHEAP way.

Pressure bleeding works better, is faster and cleans everything better, but the equipment may be several times what the Mighty Vac will cost.

If you do a bunch of brake bleeds, a used commercial unit may often be found on CL or FB and will pay itself off.

Whichever used, Speed Bleeders are a good investment.

[Sadanorakman]

.
The foot pedal controls the front right and the rear brake. For the foot pedal, bleed the front right first then the rear. The hand lever controls the left front brake.

Dave

Thought front LEFT caliper and rear were linked, and operated by foot pedal, and front right was operated by the hand lever?

[MikeB]

.
The foot pedal controls the front right and the rear brake. For the foot pedal, bleed the front right first then the rear. The hand lever controls the left front brake.

Dave

Thought front LEFT caliper and rear were linked, and operated by foot pedal, and front right was operated by the hand lever?

That is correct Sadanorakman.

[RockportDave]

.
The foot pedal controls the front right and the rear brake. For the foot pedal, bleed the front right first then the rear. The hand lever controls the left front brake.

Dave

Thought front LEFT caliper and rear were linked, and operated by foot pedal, and front right was operated by the hand lever?

That is correct Sadanorakman.

Yes sir, I had it backwards.
Thanks for clearing it up.
Dave

[Rambozo]

Using a vacuum bleeder is the best way to bleed the brakes.

The best CHEAP way.

Pressure bleeding works better, is faster and cleans everything better, but the equipment may be several times what the Mighty Vac will cost.

I thought about posting the same comment. Pressure bleeders are the way to go, and back in the day I would have agreed on the price. However, I had a MAC pressure bleeder that was nothing more than an aluminum vessel with no diaphragm that worked fine if kept above the master. When I loaned it to a friend and it was stolen, he replaced it with a Snap-On unit that was a rebranded glorified garden sprayer. It works ok, and to be honest the hand pump is often more convenient than an air hose. Now there are tons of similar units that are right at Mighty-vac prices. So no more reasons not to use pressure bleeding.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CQ5P6K4/?tag=goldwingdocs-20

The hardest part is getting the right master adapter. I made one years ago that is just a flat plate with a sheet of rubber and a strap that tightens it to just about any flat top master.

[Solo So Long]

It's also possible to get a standard reservoir cap and put the appropriate connection on it.

[DEA316]

I'm new to the site and just acquired a 1999 Aspencade and changed all the fluids
When I went to bleed the left brake Nothing. I removed the bleeder and even the caliper only to find out its a split system. Well that was stupid on my part
Anyways the bleeding system I used(couldn't find the mity vac) was a empty water bottle half-filled with brake fluid. Crack the bleeder Attach the hose to the bleeder Keep the bottle lower than the bleeder and pump away. After the system is flushed. Tighten the bleeder and check the brakes. Also all I didn't the right front brake was to attach the hose and bottle and let the fluid free flow(did not pump the lever)That was an old dirt bike trick "field service" lol