This is a humorous story of sorts..
Buddy gave me his 93 Aspencade with 25k on it and I only had to get it out of his barn after having sat for 3 yrs due to needing a new petcock. Got that repaired and had to pump the chocolate milk out of the clutch and master cylinders. Changed the oil (not the antifreeze), cleaned out the 20 lbs of mouse crap and household effects. Rode it 6 miles to the hospital yesterday for a follow-up and it was the softest most comfortable bike ride I have ever had!! Had my appointment and as I get back on the highway I merge and hit 60 quickly...then I went hmm...hit 80 quickly...and then I said hmm again and...u get the picture Well I went back down to 60, had gone 3 miles and SURPRISE SURPRISE.... oil light comes on and engine quietly dies. I cost over and long story short, I think that 1993 timing belt went and I was wondering how to tell if anything else was damaged. No grinding noise and no metal in oil. I figured the belt had to have gone. Does anyone know if there is a thread that says "buy this stupid" for replacing everything that is affected by tearing it down? Thank you for your suggestions!
If you did break a belt, you might very well be looking at a used engine. These are interference engines and a broken belt is rapidly followed by valve and piston damage. That there was no noise or lockup means there is a chance it wasn't a broken belt but something more repairable. Time to take a look.
What he said - if you did break a belt and punch a piston, it's far cheaper to just buy a replacement engine than it is to try to repair the one you have. The fact that it only had 25,000 miles on it is a really good indicator that it is a belt - they don't like sitting for long periods of time, and will take a "set".
Wouldn't there be some kind of snap, crackle, pop? And at highway speeds wouldn't the engine kinda self destruct trying to continue to run on the other bank?
Probably a clogged fuel filter or something simple, it did sit for a while.
Start the diagnosis by opening up the timing belt covers.
If you find a broken belt, you know the answer. If they aren't broken, they should be replaced anyway and you can proceed with the troubleshooting.
Seems odd the oil light would suddenly come on as you are coasting to a stop. Even with a broken belt, bent valves and holes in pistons, the oil pump would keep turning and there would still be oil pressure until the engine stopped. And the engine would still try to run on the side that hadn't broken a belt.
Might be electrical problem. But start with looking at the belts. Wishing luck!
A local inventor has figured a way to turn a sausage grinder backward to manufacture pigs.
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪
~Mark
Thank you everyone for your reply! The oil light came on and motor died at the same time. I thought that if the timing belt went at highway speeds that I would hear a loud metal crunch due to valves but it did not. I read from another thread about riders having their BAS go bad and it die. I looked for the X as was directed and it was there.
We scrubbed and washed the crap out of this thing....could it have died My other piece I feel I need to check is the ignition cylinder. Before I went into the hospital I locked the cylinder to activate the alarm/kill switch (at least I thought I did) and it was a bear to "unlock". Wondered what the bike would do if the antitheft kicked in.
Thank you again for the help! Trying to find out if any of my Masonic brothers had wings so I can bug them
Whenever the engine dies the oil light will always come on because there's no oil pressure once the engine stops.
If the engine stops because the bank angle sensor has faulted, yes the light will come on.
And if the run-stop switch has faulted the engine will die and once again the oil light comes on.
There will most likely be no other lights that come on except the ones that were on already such as the cruise on light.
The fork lock tumbler is probably just in need of lubrication. Dirt and corrosion will make it difficult to set the lock or unlock it. It's just a pin that moves out to lock the forks. I doubt it's your ignition switch causing the problem.
Take a close look at the run stop switch.
However if I were you are concerned about the timing belts breaking, remove the lower cowl, remove the belt covers, and inspect it. Rotate the engine just slightly to see if all the belts and cam gears are moving like they should. Replacing the timing belts would be a great idea by the way.
Keep in mind with your year motorcycle the run stop switch can fail and you could still actuate the starter. However, the engine will not start or run. It wasn't until 1998 that the run stop switch prevented the engine starter from rotating.
One more thing, if you have an aftermarket Alarm/Kill switch function, check it over thoroughly. Honda did not have such a system stock and an aftermarket installation could be suspect.
Motorcycle: 1999 GL1500 50th Anniversary SE 1989 GL1500 FOR SALE A pack of Super Cubs Z50A (pre-headlight) Formerly (in order): Honda Super Cub (bought 1968, sold ?) Kawasaki Coyote (early 1970s) Honda 350 (mid 1970s) Kawasaki KZ900-PS (1977) Honda Super Cubs (various years) Kawasaki KZ1000C (1978) Kawasaki KZ1000P (various years, 1980 - 2005) Honda 360 (1983) BMW R1150RT-P (2001) BMW R1200RT-P (various years 2007 - 2018, NEVER AGAIN)
rushtk wrote: ↑Wed Jul 27, 2022 7:25 pm Does anyone know if there is a thread that says "buy this stupid" for replacing everything that is affected by tearing it down?
There is no shortage of threads telling new owners to REPLACE THE TIMING BELTS, unless you have documentation showing that they are 2 years old or newer. They are cheap (about $50 on Amazon for Gates belts) and the job can be done in a couple of hours with very basic tools and a little attention to the job.
Before you ask us to guess, pull the Tupperware and LOOK. All you want to know is whether there is a broken belt -- it doesn't matter how new they look, REPLACE THEM.
If a belt has broken, you have nothing to lose by pulling the head on that side and doing a good inspection . . .the engine is probably history. If you are among the 1% with a failure that leaves all valves retracted enough to keep from hitting the pistons, great! It's more likely that you just didn't hear the valves and pistons trying to occupy the same volume of space at the same time.
Ok, life has now slowed down so I can start looking at the bike. I am doing as suggested and finding the thread to bypass the B.A.S. If that doesn't work then I will take off the covers and see if any belts are broken, then if no belts are broken I need to check the ignition cylinder because security could be engaged.... does this sound correct?
Motorcycle: 1999 GL1500 50th Anniversary SE 1989 GL1500 FOR SALE A pack of Super Cubs Z50A (pre-headlight) Formerly (in order): Honda Super Cub (bought 1968, sold ?) Kawasaki Coyote (early 1970s) Honda 350 (mid 1970s) Kawasaki KZ900-PS (1977) Honda Super Cubs (various years) Kawasaki KZ1000C (1978) Kawasaki KZ1000P (various years, 1980 - 2005) Honda 360 (1983) BMW R1150RT-P (2001) BMW R1200RT-P (various years 2007 - 2018, NEVER AGAIN)
rushtk wrote: ↑Mon Aug 01, 2022 5:31 am
If that doesn't work then I will take off the covers and see if any belts are broken, then if no belts are broken I need to check the ignition cylinder because security could be engaged.... does this sound correct?
NO.
Pull the cover, check the belts. If they are not broken, order a new set and DON'T DO ANYTHING ELSE until you have put on the new ones, because you've used up all of your luck.
If a belt has broken, there is no point in checking anything else.
Yes check / change the belts FIRST. There was a recall on the B.A.S check with Honda to see if done. Mine had not been done and the first time it shut down was going down the high way. Belts and the reset is easy on the BAS turn off the ing then back on.
I don't have a Goldwing anymore, but a Valkyrie, and there is an inspection port in the middle of the timing belt cover, and you can take this off and turn the engine over by hand to feel if there is any restriction in it's rotation. Might be able to feel the belts too and know if they are broken, but they could be missing teeth only.
The consensus is to NOT try to run the engine until you've changed your belts. I would insure it turns over first without restriction, not using the starter.
Similar thing happened 2 years ago on my 1990 Goldwing SE. Running just fine going up an incline, but at top of hill it cut off without any warning. Just complete loss of power, engine or oil light
came on......dead. Tried starting multiple times, starter would whiz the engine but no fire. I thought timing belt. Well, called AAA and since it was father's day it took 4 hours to get it towed to my house just 5 miles away. For next three months I worked on it to no avail. Checked timing belt, changed all sensors, all fuses that I could find, installed new fuel pump, opened the kill switch, took apart, looked new so I screwed it back on. I had plastic scattered all over my garage. Then one day an old gentleman came into my computer repair shop and as we were chatting he told me how his grandson made lots of money buying all kinds of gasoline engine things from lawn mowers to jet skis and motorcycles that would not run, then repairing and selling. I told him about my dead Goldwing.. He left my shop and called back in about an hour. Said he told his grandson about my bike and grandson said "check the kill switch". I told him I had done that already. He called back a few minutes later and said ,"check it again, but this time short it out with alligator clips". I did just as he said and it started right up. The inside of kill switch was clean as a whistle, but it was defective.
Hopefully that is all that is wrong with your 93
Well I went back down to 60, had gone 3 miles and SURPRISE SURPRISE.... oil light comes on and engine quietly dies. I cost over and long story short, I think that 1993 timing belt went and I was wondering how to tell if anything else was damaged. No grinding noise and no metal in oil. I figured the belt had to have gone. Does anyone know if there is a thread that says "buy this stupid" for replacing everything that is affected by tearing it down? Thank you for your suggestions!
Wishing luck!
My other piece I feel I need to check is the ignition cylinder. Before I went into the hospital I locked the cylinder to activate the alarm/kill switch (at least I thought I did) and it was a bear to "unlock". Wondered what the bike would do if the antitheft kicked in. 
