Aw nuts...


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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Drew-wing
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2022 7:55 am
Location: Princeton, TX
Motorcycle: 1998 GL1500SE
1998 Yamaha 'YamaHarley' 1300

Aw nuts...

Post by Drew-wing »



Man, stepped in it big this time. The executive summary - bought a 1998 SE that I was not able to lay eyes on from a dealer a thousand miles away. Yes, it's one of those horror stories. I pulled it off the truck and almost threw up. My first order of business was to replace the rear master cylinder (yes, it needed replaced). That turned out to be a stroke of luck (in a sick sorta way). When I was removing the right side header from the exhaust manifold, I discovered that all of the nuts were finger loose. I got the header off, and discovered that it didn't have any gaskets in it. 🤬

So now I feel as though to go through every system on the bike and make sure some knuckle-head mechanic hasn't done similar work to what I've found so far. Also a lot of salt corrosion on the aluminum parts makes me wonder if it has sat in some salt water higher than the tops of the rims.

My first questions of this saga (I'm now determined to clean this girl up like new) are:

1. What does the long spring hooked to the rear brake lever post attach to on the other end? I'm just not seeing it.

2. I'd like some suggestions on chemical and methods to clean the salt 'cancer' off of the wheels, valve covers, and any place else I find it. Will a polishing ball on my drill work? Is this a hand only job, is there a chemical reactionary method that works?

I'm sure that there will be more questions, as I haven't worked on a GL1500 in decades. The good news is that I have a collective of wing lovers to help me along my journey. Thanks y'all!


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Andy Cote
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Location: Windham, ME
Motorcycle: 2015 Goldwing, basic black

Re: Aw nuts...

Post by Andy Cote »

Welcome to the forum.

Most of the bare aluminum was originally clear coated. There is no magic chemical solution. Polish away with whatever power and/or hand tools you are comfortable with and consider a post polishing clear coat application. Look back at some of the work our members have done.

Read thru the How-To articles and GoldwingDocs YouTube channel. Timing belts, rear end service, fluid changes, fork seals and a few other things are all in your near future. Don't wait.

I think you might be looking at the spring that connect to the rear brake light switch.

BTW- I wouldn't place too much blame (or confidence) with the dealer. The bike is very likely older than all the employees. Lucky they were able to find the choke lever and the fuel petcock (trick question).
2015 Goldwing, basic black

Previously: GL1200 standard, GL1200 Interstate, GL1500 Goldwing, GL1500 Valkyrie Standard, 2000 Valkyrie Interstate, many other Hondas
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MikeB
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Location: Tacoma, WA
Motorcycle: 1998 - GL1500 Aspencade
191K Miles
2017 - GL1800 Audio Comfort
28K Miles
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Re: Aw nuts...

Post by MikeB »

I've used a foam polishing ball with good success on the wheels. Mother's Polish with the polishing ball is a good combination.

I've also used abrasive scrubbing pads with polish to help remove the tarnish and oxidation.

Purple Polish https://californiacustom.com/products/p ... al-polish/ with good success when the aluminum was not heavily oxidized.

One of the best polishing compounds I have used for just cleaning up and bringing a high luster to the aluminum is Bom's Away https://www.captainrichardsbest.com/bom ... -bmaw.html It does a great job on slightly tarnished aluminum.
MikeB
1998 - GL1500 w/184,500 miles ~ 2017 - GL1800 w/13000 miles
USAF Avionics Communications Tech - 1968 - 1986 / Flight Engineer C-130E - C-141B - 1986 - 1992. Retired
Industrial Maintenance Tech - 1992 - 2014
Retired in Tacoma, WA
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Drew-wing
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2022 7:55 am
Location: Princeton, TX
Motorcycle: 1998 GL1500SE
1998 Yamaha 'YamaHarley' 1300

Re: Aw nuts...

Post by Drew-wing »



Andy, thanks for the response.

I'm a pretty fair mechanic, but also smart enough to know that there's a sometimes a lot of ways to do things the 'right way', other times there's only one way (timing belts for instance). I also know there are a lot of folks who have been doing this a long time and have invaluable information. I'll often ask for help because as I get older (60 is in the rear-view mirror) I've learned to respect that sometimes you don't know what you don't know.

All that being said, I always look on youtube. It's entertaining and sometimes you learn stuff. Other times you wonder who ties the shoes of the poster for them... 😂

I've recently found both the YT channel and the blog for GWD. Both have been fantastic. Digging looking thru strings can eat up hours because I find so much helpful stuff. Rest assured if I ask, I've spent probably too much time searching for the answer without success.

I've already changed most of the fluids. Rear end is done and I've ordered a fork seals for it. Plugs will be next, and I'll probably not tackle the timing belts until I arrive at my new abode in Colorado (western slope). Oil looks good, so I'll wait until I get there, then Sea Foam both the oil and the fuel, then change the oil.

After I lightly polish my paint, does anyone have any experience with the ceramic coatings I see being touted? Does one work better than others on the plethora of plastic I'll be 'waxing'? Would the ceramic work as well as clearcoat on the aluminum surfaces after polishing?

Lastly, I don't think the spring is for the switch. I *believe* it tensions the rear brake pedal in the up position. Not sure though... Image attached
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Andy Cote
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Motorcycle: 2015 Goldwing, basic black

Re: Aw nuts...

Post by Andy Cote »

Suggest you find a service manual to supplement all the good info you have already found. The articles and videos are plum full of tricks and shortcuts but the book is always right.

I would do the timing belts before putting on any mileage. Failure is an engine destroyer. Job is easier with spark plugs removed and anti-freeze drained so I usually do all three together. Even easier with fork out so maybe work it in with the fork rebuild.

Final drive service is more than changing the oil and includes removing the drive and driveshaft, properly greasing the splines, checking the seals and o-rings, etc.

Yes, that's the big return spring. I called out the switch spring because not everyone is used to seeing one.

I like the ceramic a lot but would still clearcaot the aluminum first. There is a good product review and DIY ceramic.
2015 Goldwing, basic black

Previously: GL1200 standard, GL1200 Interstate, GL1500 Goldwing, GL1500 Valkyrie Standard, 2000 Valkyrie Interstate, many other Hondas
User avatar
Drew-wing
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2022 7:55 am
Location: Princeton, TX
Motorcycle: 1998 GL1500SE
1998 Yamaha 'YamaHarley' 1300

Re: Aw nuts...

Post by Drew-wing »

Thanks for all the info. I have a manual on order, just haven't seen it yet. I won't put any mileage in it before I service it this winter. It'll ride on a trailer to Montrose.
User avatar
Drew-wing
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2022 7:55 am
Location: Princeton, TX
Motorcycle: 1998 GL1500SE
1998 Yamaha 'YamaHarley' 1300

Re: Aw nuts... Update

Post by Drew-wing »

I spoke with a professional detailer. After taking a look at the salt 'cancer' on my aluminum surfaces, he suggested Flitz with a cloth buffing wheel on my drill. I'll update with before/after pics if it works...

Found where the spring hooks to.

Got the rear master cylinder replaced and the lines bled. The old fluid was a dark amber color and I cleaned a ton of gunk out of the reservoir. Feels like it should.

Have the timing belts ordered, hopefully be here end of this week or beginning of next. I'll definitely do the T Belts and coolant before I start it. As soon as it's back together I'll Seafoam the fuel, then the oil and give her fresh oil. I've watched all the applicable vids on Goldwing Docs to make sure I don't miss anything.


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