1994 1500SE 131k


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
Post Reply
Ffmedic166
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2022 5:00 pm
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 SE

1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Ffmedic166 »



Before I start, I am new to the goldwing family. Bought one last week and drive from Florida to Texas where I live. It’s in rough shape. The list is long of issues. Surprised I made it home.

No air in the suspension what so ever so the ass end just squatted the whole ride. Very uneasy in corners or even on moderate rough road.

It starts by a screw driver arching the “A” solenoid. And have followed the manual flow chart with great distress, I swear they wrote the damn thing leaving out key things. (I’m a MMI Marine grad) and it’s a bear for even me to read. Wiring is straight forward just too many switches and relays on the start circut.

I’ve jumped ahead midway to the diode pack on the back of the bike because why not….everything kept checking out or seemed good. I will add my neutral light stayed on through all gears and driving….ground issue I suspected and didn’t care so much that it stayed on.

Here is something that has baffled me. I have done diode and continuity check on circuits before and even found bad diodes from previous jobs….but this diode system is completely backwards with the voltage flow. Per the manual it’s saying everyone of my diodes in this is trashed. That’s new to me, typically I would see one or two diodes that went bad in a pack but all of them?

Anyways the motor ran great and got my big ass from Florida back home. So I am hunting down a diode assy, unless I’ve missed something.

Also please don’t answer with have you check your battery connections…that’s like me telling someone that has Poor mpg on bike to make sure you have gas. Lol

Side note: it’s fueled by a aftermarket external eldbrock fuel pump….it’s jerry rigged to hell and back from previous bone head that bought off of.


User avatar
Rambozo
Posts: 1998
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 8:36 pm
Location: Disneyland
Motorcycle: 1992 GL1500 Aspencade
Ducati Monster

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Rambozo »

Sounds like you have a lot of work ahead of you. The start circuit is overly complicated because it also does dual duty as the reverse drive. On top of that thanks to lawyers and idiots there are safety switches for damn near everything. I would start by stripping out all the stuff that has been added and get yourself a clean slate. At this point I don't think you can trust the stock wiring diagram until you locate all the modifications. Be aware that the stock fuel pump is 1 or 2 psi and most aftermarket pumps are around 7 and flood the carbs. There should be an air line in the right saddlebag you can use to check the suspension without the compressor running. You didn't say if the lack of air was a leak issue or electrical, or both.
Ffmedic166
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2022 5:00 pm
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 SE

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Ffmedic166 »

I’m stumped.

Per manual in testing continuity you probe for normal or forward bias. Following the manual I get OL so no continuity, but if I check reverse bias I do. I even did a diode check from my meter and get voltage with reverse bias probe.

So this tells me the diodes are working just not the flow of the current like manual.

Besides a toggle switch for pump nothing is added inline to factory wiring. Factory wiring for an oem pump is disconnect and not hooked to anything.

I’m one for factory and oem set up and will be in time getting another pump assy to drop in new tank and have it back to stock. No reason to have that external pump, it’s lazy rigging and your right in that it’s pumping tad too much fuel though I see no dripping fuel or even vapor lock, but sure does smell like it’s burning rich.

Now the suspension has an airline feeding from the pump to pressure regulator blown. For time being I was thinking to remove the one air shock and tap a fitting with a shredder valve and just pump air to see if it will hold and give some suspension. The pump also does not come on, though I’ve yet to look into why not.
Ffmedic166
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2022 5:00 pm
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 SE

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Ffmedic166 »













User avatar
Rambozo
Posts: 1998
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 8:36 pm
Location: Disneyland
Motorcycle: 1992 GL1500 Aspencade
Ducati Monster

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Rambozo »

The neutral light on all the time is not a common failure and it does get it's ground via the diode pack. I would find out what is causing that as it is very much tied into the starting system.
Does the light stay on if you move the reverse handle?
Have you checked for button switched power on the yellow/red wire on the A solenoid?
If you don't have the colored wiring diagrams that Erdeniz Umman made up, I would get them. Much improved over what's in the manual.
Should be on this site or GoldwingFacts.

EDIT: Here is the link. https://www.goldwingfacts.com/attachmen ... df.288450/
Ffmedic166
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2022 5:00 pm
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 SE

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Ffmedic166 »

I’ve “wiggled” and even put into reverse, reverse does not engage. Neutral lights stays on reverse light came on but I think for only a moment. All this was done with bike running and in neutral.

Yel/red has constant power till you push button then no power. Assuming it’s diverting power to another circuit. Head light dims, does not turn off like it should along with the respective relay for it clicking. I’ve got two wiring diagrams, both color. One is Simplified! Who every took the time to do them deserves a drink on me.

Am I right to assume the wires on “A” relay have a certain order of placement on the respective blades? I show (as long as the fuse is good) all four wires are hot at all times?
User avatar
Rambozo
Posts: 1998
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 8:36 pm
Location: Disneyland
Motorcycle: 1992 GL1500 Aspencade
Ducati Monster

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Rambozo »

Yellow/Red should only have power when you push the button. Be sure to check it with it disconnected, so it can't be backfed.
Ffmedic166
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2022 5:00 pm
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 SE

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Ffmedic166 »

Rambozo wrote: Mon Nov 14, 2022 1:29 pm Yellow/Red should only have power when you push the button. Be sure to check it with it disconnected, so it can't be backfed.
I remove wire from relay test it while disconnected and get voltage. I push the button and voltage disappears.
User avatar
Rambozo
Posts: 1998
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 8:36 pm
Location: Disneyland
Motorcycle: 1992 GL1500 Aspencade
Ducati Monster

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Rambozo »

Very odd. Someone may have monkeyed with the switch or it's plug (C57). There are two poles that have that behavior and should go to the headlight, so maybe something was swapped? I would check for power in and out on relay 6 and fuse 11. There could also be some stray power coming from the reverse control unit, but even if there was, I don't see how pushing the button could pull that low if it's wired correctly.
Ffmedic166
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2022 5:00 pm
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 SE

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Ffmedic166 »

I’m away from the bike now. But relay clicked and worked and fuse not blown. Though he did have a few fuses too big for a couple of them, not sure if that was one of them.

Neutral light went off when I unplugged the diode assy. I will put the new one on when it comes in. I will have to test to see if I get power once I remove the diode assy on yellow red wire.
User avatar
Rambozo
Posts: 1998
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 8:36 pm
Location: Disneyland
Motorcycle: 1992 GL1500 Aspencade
Ducati Monster

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Rambozo »

The yellow/red should work without the diode pack. I would not install the new diode pack until you have sorted out what caused the damage or it will most likely just fry the new one. You might also want to unplug the reverse control unit while troubleshooting as well. It might be bad already, but no point in risking it until after you get the starting problems sorted. Then tackle reverse.

You can trace the power to the start button and see where your problem is.
Battery--Main fuse A--ign. switch--fuse 11--relay 6 coil and contacts--start button--starter relay A
Ffmedic166
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2022 5:00 pm
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 SE

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Ffmedic166 »

Rambozo wrote: Mon Nov 14, 2022 8:01 pm The yellow/red should work without the diode pack. I would not install the new diode pack until you have sorted out what caused the damage or it will most likely just fry the new one. You might also want to unplug the reverse control unit while troubleshooting as well. It might be bad already, but no point in risking it until after you get the starting problems sorted. Then tackle reverse.

You can trace the power to the start button and see where your problem is.
Battery--Main fuse A--ign. switch--fuse 11--relay 6 coil and contacts--start button--starter relay A

I will retest the wire to make sure it doing what I said it doing (having constant voltage when not pressing the start button). Would not the wire get voltage when hooked to the relay? If no, what blade does the wire slide on to. Diagram shows all four blades having power. So how does it receive signal to transfer power to the opposite power lug?

Thank you for the help thus far that you’ve given me.
User avatar
Rambozo
Posts: 1998
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 8:36 pm
Location: Disneyland
Motorcycle: 1992 GL1500 Aspencade
Ducati Monster

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Rambozo »

Two of the connections are for the fuse holder and two are for the relay coil. You can actually pull the two pieces apart. Honda just used that as a place to mount a fuse holder. Just to confuse people or something.



So, for the two that come from the relay coil, the Y/R is switched power from the button, and the Brown/Red is grounded either from the gear position switch via the diode pack and the reverse relay switch, or from the side stand switch via the clutch switch, the diode pack and reverse relay switch again, and one more diode on the side stand ground wire for good measure.
You can tell this must have been designed by committee.
For all the convoluted paths, it's actually is a pretty robust and reliable system as long as it's unmolested. Corrosion damage or badly wired accessories are the things that usually take it down.
Ffmedic166
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2022 5:00 pm
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 SE

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Ffmedic166 »

Rambozo wrote: Mon Nov 14, 2022 9:34 pm Two of the connections are for the fuse holder and two are for the relay coil. You can actually pull the two pieces apart. Honda just used that as a place to mount a fuse holder. Just to confuse people or something.
MzExMzM4-da6d699b.jpg
So, for the two that come from the relay coil, the Y/R is switched power from the button, and the Brown/Red is grounded either from the gear position switch via the diode pack and the reverse relay switch, or from the side stand switch via the clutch switch, the diode pack and reverse relay switch again, and one more diode on the side stand ground wire for good measure.
You can tell this must have been designed by committee.
For all the convoluted paths, it's actually is a pretty robust and reliable system as long as it's unmolested. Corrosion damage or badly wired accessories are the things that usually take it down.
Now that makes sense, thank you for the photo. That explains a lot. When I get back to the bike I will make sure it’s wired on the solenoid correctly and start from there.

I know all the relays click when energized. So relays are go. Start switch is good because I can push button and the headlight dims and clicks the relay. So it’s either the reverse module or diode pack.

Half way makes sense to why yellow/red is reading voltage; the diode pack has blown or allows voltage to flow backwards (reverse bias).

Thanks so far with the help! That picture really helped or eased my mind.
User avatar
Rambozo
Posts: 1998
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 8:36 pm
Location: Disneyland
Motorcycle: 1992 GL1500 Aspencade
Ducati Monster

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Rambozo »

There are two switches in the start button. One for the headlights, which should turn them off, not just dim, and one for the starter. They usually don't fail together. Just because a relay clicks, doesn't make it good, test to be sure.
User avatar
ncdave
Posts: 29
Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2022 2:56 pm
Location: United States
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by ncdave »

Are you interested in a good parts bike? may not make sense as I'm in North Carolina, but I have my wrecked 1999 model sitting in my driveway. plastics are gone, but bones all there and in working order. has around 60k miles. You might do better starting with a good known wiring harness. other parts like alternator, starter, etc were all in good working order when I went down.

free for the asking.....
Ffmedic166
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2022 5:00 pm
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 SE

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Ffmedic166 »

ncdave wrote: Wed Nov 16, 2022 9:23 am Are you interested in a good parts bike? may not make sense as I'm in North Carolina, but I have my wrecked 1999 model sitting in my driveway. plastics are gone, but bones all there and in working order. has around 60k miles. You might do better starting with a good known wiring harness. other parts like alternator, starter, etc were all in good working order when I went down.

free for the asking.....
Actually looking at a few parts bikes. NC is too far to pick on up though. But might be interested in parts of it and pay for part and shipping.

Looking for foot pegs and controls. (Have the damn floorboards and heel toe set up), all the lights on saddle bags and trunk. What color is your bike?
User avatar
ncdave
Posts: 29
Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2022 2:56 pm
Location: United States
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by ncdave »

it was silver. but all the plastics are trashed. went down on the interstate at 75 mph due to a blown rear wheel. there wasn't any part of the plastics that were untouched except the covers between my legs.

I'm looking to get rid of the entire bike rather than part it out. if I decide to go that route, I'll let you know.
Ffmedic166
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2022 5:00 pm
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 SE

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Ffmedic166 »

ncdave wrote: Wed Nov 16, 2022 1:57 pm it was silver. but all the plastics are trashed. went down on the interstate at 75 mph due to a blown rear wheel. there wasn't any part of the plastics that were untouched except the covers between my legs.

I'm looking to get rid of the entire bike rather than part it out. if I decide to go that route, I'll let you know.
Damn man well I am glad you made it out with your life. I mostly need the foot pegs. I can’t find them. So if you decide to part them from the bike let me know. Sorry for your loss of the wing. Buy another?
User avatar
ncdave
Posts: 29
Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2022 2:56 pm
Location: United States
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by ncdave »

Ffmedic166 wrote: Wed Nov 16, 2022 3:07 pm
ncdave wrote: Wed Nov 16, 2022 1:57 pm it was silver. but all the plastics are trashed. went down on the interstate at 75 mph due to a blown rear wheel. there wasn't any part of the plastics that were untouched except the covers between my legs.

I'm looking to get rid of the entire bike rather than part it out. if I decide to go that route, I'll let you know.
Damn man well I am glad you made it out with your life. I mostly need the foot pegs. I can’t find them. So if you decide to part them from the bike let me know. Sorry for your loss of the wing. Buy another?
yep....bought another 2000 model about a month later. at the prices you can get these good old bikes, they are virtually a toss-away bike.
User avatar
mlkmn89
Posts: 38
Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2021 1:02 pm
Location: Wauzeka, WI
Motorcycle: 1996 Honda Goldwing GL1500SE

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by mlkmn89 »

Ffmedic166 wrote: Sun Nov 13, 2022 4:19 pm Before I start, I am new to the goldwing family. Bought one last week and drive from Florida to Texas where I live. It’s in rough shape. The list is long of issues. Surprised I made it home.

No air in the suspension what so ever so the ass end just squatted the whole ride. Very uneasy in corners or even on moderate rough road.

It starts by a screw driver arching the “A” solenoid. And have followed the manual flow chart with great distress, I swear they wrote the damn thing leaving out key things. (I’m a MMI Marine grad) and it’s a bear for even me to read. Wiring is straight forward just too many switches and relays on the start circut.

I’ve jumped ahead midway to the diode pack on the back of the bike because why not….everything kept checking out or seemed good. I will add my neutral light stayed on through all gears and driving….ground issue I suspected and didn’t care so much that it stayed on.

Here is something that has baffled me. I have done diode and continuity check on circuits before and even found bad diodes from previous jobs….but this diode system is completely backwards with the voltage flow. Per the manual it’s saying everyone of my diodes in this is trashed. That’s new to me, typically I would see one or two diodes that went bad in a pack but all of them?

Anyways the motor ran great and got my big ass from Florida back home. So I am hunting down a diode assy, unless I’ve missed something.

Also please don’t answer with have you check your battery connections…that’s like me telling someone that has Poor mpg on bike to make sure you have gas. Lol

Side note: it’s fueled by a aftermarket external eldbrock fuel pump….it’s jerry rigged to hell and back from previous bone head that bought off of.
I'm not trying to be a (check the battery) person but with all the problems you are having, if you need a good repair manual may I recommend this one? It come with detailed pics and step by step instruction from tear down to assembly. https://www.ebay.com/itm/384149579839
Ffmedic166
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2022 5:00 pm
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 SE

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Ffmedic166 »

mlkmn89 wrote: Wed Nov 16, 2022 4:28 pm
Ffmedic166 wrote: Sun Nov 13, 2022 4:19 pm Before I start, I am new to the goldwing family. Bought one last week and drive from Florida to Texas where I live. It’s in rough shape. The list is long of issues. Surprised I made it home.

No air in the suspension what so ever so the ass end just squatted the whole ride. Very uneasy in corners or even on moderate rough road.

It starts by a screw driver arching the “A” solenoid. And have followed the manual flow chart with great distress, I swear they wrote the damn thing leaving out key things. (I’m a MMI Marine grad) and it’s a bear for even me to read. Wiring is straight forward just too many switches and relays on the start circut.

I’ve jumped ahead midway to the diode pack on the back of the bike because why not….everything kept checking out or seemed good. I will add my neutral light stayed on through all gears and driving….ground issue I suspected and didn’t care so much that it stayed on.

Here is something that has baffled me. I have done diode and continuity check on circuits before and even found bad diodes from previous jobs….but this diode system is completely backwards with the voltage flow. Per the manual it’s saying everyone of my diodes in this is trashed. That’s new to me, typically I would see one or two diodes that went bad in a pack but all of them?

Anyways the motor ran great and got my big ass from Florida back home. So I am hunting down a diode assy, unless I’ve missed something.

Also please don’t answer with have you check your battery connections…that’s like me telling someone that has Poor mpg on bike to make sure you have gas. Lol

Side note: it’s fueled by a aftermarket external eldbrock fuel pump….it’s jerry rigged to hell and back from previous bone head that bought off of.
I'm not trying to be a (check the battery) person but with all the problems you are having, if you need a good repair manual may I recommend this one? It come with detailed pics and step by step instruction from tear down to assembly. https://www.ebay.com/itm/384149579839

Thanks for the recommendation, I have pdf version of this manual. I wish I could afford the actual Honda tech manual.
Solo So Long
Posts: 534
Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2020 4:07 pm
Location: Northern Nevada
Motorcycle: 1999 GL1500 50th Anniversary SE
1989 GL1500 FOR SALE
A pack of Super Cubs
Z50A (pre-headlight)
Formerly (in order):
Honda Super Cub (bought 1968, sold ?)
Kawasaki Coyote (early 1970s)
Honda 350 (mid 1970s)
Kawasaki KZ900-PS (1977)
Honda Super Cubs (various years)
Kawasaki KZ1000C (1978)
Kawasaki KZ1000P (various years, 1980 - 2005)
Honda 360 (1983)
BMW R1150RT-P (2001)
BMW R1200RT-P (various years 2007 - 2018, NEVER AGAIN)

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Solo So Long »

You ought to get in touch with blupupher -- he's got a project in mind to swap stuff from and SE to an Aspencade, and it might do you both some good to talk about wiring.
User avatar
blupupher
Posts: 543
Joined: Sun May 17, 2020 5:47 pm
Location: Katy, Republic of Texas
Motorcycle: 2002 Goldwing GL1800A
1994 Goldwing GL1500 SE

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by blupupher »

Solo So Long wrote: Sat Nov 19, 2022 5:46 pm You ought to get in touch with blupupher -- he's got a project in mind to swap stuff from and SE to an Aspencade, and it might do you both some good to talk about wiring.
Umm, yeah, about that, I am not getting the Aspencade, I am getting an 1800, so the 1500 is up for sale.

Ffmedic166, send me a message, we can work something out. I am in Katy, so not too far from you.

My 1500 is in great shape, except the transmission has a borked up 4th gear shift fork. Bike is still rideable, but will need a new motor. You could either swap your motor over to it or just scavenge all the parts from it.
Ironic thing is, I will be up near you in Midlothian picking up my 1800 on Tuesday.
Would have worked out nice if I could ride the 1500 up there and meet you and pick up my 1800 at the same time.

edit: Here is my Facebook post for it
1994 Goldwing GL1500 SE
Ffmedic166
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2022 5:00 pm
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 SE

Re: 1994 1500SE 131k

Post by Ffmedic166 »

blupupher wrote: Sat Nov 19, 2022 9:07 pm
Solo So Long wrote: Sat Nov 19, 2022 5:46 pm You ought to get in touch with blupupher -- he's got a project in mind to swap stuff from and SE to an Aspencade, and it might do you both some good to talk about wiring.
Umm, yeah, about that, I am not getting the Aspencade, I am getting an 1800, so the 1500 is up for sale.

Ffmedic166, send me a message, we can work something out. I am in Katy, so not too far from you.

My 1500 is in great shape, except the transmission has a borked up 4th gear shift fork. Bike is still rideable, but will need a new motor. You could either swap your motor over to it or just scavenge all the parts from it.
Ironic thing is, I will be up near you in Midlothian picking up my 1800 on Tuesday.
Would have worked out nice if I could ride the 1500 up there and meet you and pick up my 1800 at the same time.

edit: Here is my Facebook post for it
What a small world. I almost contacted you about your bike when I first seen it. My brother just bought one for 550$ and the guy claimed starter was bad. Won’t go into fear and the starter clutch gear has teeth messing so it makes a racket starting over. Oh and the carbs are frozen and water has made it was in the engine. Lol the guy was asking 1.5k I got him down to 550 sight unseen and he saw me coming lol.

My bike I got home and started testing somethings. Per manual for testing the diode pack is WRONG and is miss leading. Got a new one and tested and it tested bad as well. But the old one showed reverse bias on neutral ground and reverse relay switch. Swapped out and the bike cranks with button now.

This thanksgiving week I did a lot to bike. Changed timing belts, put led bulbs in dash, new speakers and plugged a vacuum hose which did nothing for my rich running engine. Also rebuilt the petcock and still fuel can still bypass it with vacuum removed.

Like your bike my 4th is just about gone. I can coast in the gear that’s all. Tried to fix my air shock and finally mange to get a SCHRADER valve on it and put air to it. It just goes in the top of the shock and blows out the bottom no retention of air what so ever. I don’t care what people say, the air ride is nice till something breaks and does not work, and good ol Honda thinks non rebuildable ones are better. Found a nice set for Harleys and might get them. I am too fat for the stock coil springs they have.

Plan to pick up a parts bike for both me and my brother to cabbage and build back up our bikes.


Post Reply