Oil pump/pressure sensor


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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Ffmedic166
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2022 5:00 pm
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 SE

Oil pump/pressure sensor

Post by Ffmedic166 »



Another member of this fourm, my brother! Has recently got a gl1500 and has through process of getting it to run has rebuilt carbs. Bike runs but oil light stays on and at times will flicker off for an indeterminate amount of time. Mostly will stay on.

The crankcase was filled with approx 14 quarts, yes you read that right…14qts of oil/water mix. We can only assume that it sat so long that water made it way in the crank. It made a hell of mess with left carb and intake runners. He has cleaned and even did two oil flushes where is oil just flowing through.

The light for oil comes on and flickers. He removed it (sensor) and started the bike. At first the oil/water mix just trickled out. Then after some time and him removing it again it started pumping out oil. He is worried the pump is shot, i on the other handle refuse to believe this to be the case cause it metal and would take years of poor oil maintenance to wear down the pump.

Also side note: the bike runs and has ticking sometimes one side to even both as if the lifters are pumping up from pressure. He also has a mid to high rpm bog (3-4k rpm), he is skilled in rebuilding carbs as I am too so not sure as if it would be actual carb issue… he is right now ready to just throw it all away and walk away from the bike.


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Rambozo
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Re: Oil pump/pressure sensor

Post by Rambozo »

I would tend to agree with him about walking away from this one. Have you put a pressure gauge on it? While the oil pump way be ok, the pressure relief valve could be stuck open. With an engine full of water, it should come apart. If you are unwilling to do that, run away.
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WingAdmin
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Re: Oil pump/pressure sensor

Post by WingAdmin »

I would walk away from it as well. There are actually two oil pumps, a scavenge pump at the back of the engine, and the pressure pump at the front. If either is compromised, you've got serious problems.
84wing1200a
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Re: Oil pump/pressure sensor

Post by 84wing1200a »

Well if the pressure is present at cold and dwindles as it heats, then this has to be a bypass valve stuck open. Well, if its stuck open, you have to get it unstuck, how to get this done, well its all based on the butthole puckering work you wanna do. No this is not walk away and assume the loss, that is an asinine assumption and idea. Tell you these throw away culture semantics are unbeleivable.

Slam some seafoam, or very harsh and pentrating solution. load up the system (fire over without running), let sit, rinse repeat. Or fire that bike up and let her run and stick around for noise. once she is heat soaked good, let her sit and change the oil. replace with some seafoam and let her run and watch oil pressure. If you clean a set of carbs in a solution because its gummed up and stopped up, you would apply the same logic to the oil pump. the oil pump is much like the melling style, it would take tremendous amount of internal neglect to make that pump fail or lose its primary design of generating oil pressure.

The scavanging pump is for the gear set and does not directly influence the pressure.
Ffmedic166
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Location: Fort Worth, TX
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 SE

Re: Oil pump/pressure sensor

Post by Ffmedic166 »

WingAdmin wrote: Tue Dec 13, 2022 10:28 am I would walk away from it as well. There are actually two oil pumps, a scavenge pump at the back of the engine, and the pressure pump at the front. If either is compromised, you've got serious problems.
As the previous person posted to “walk away” and to yours. You learn nothing when you give in to frustrations and blanket statements. Logic has to come into play. As a marine technician, specializing more in outboards, and a fair grasp to automotive mechanics these oil pumps are very mechanical. They closely remind me of oil pumps on ford engines. Is they function similar then it’s best to assume that with a bike just broken in at just under 100k miles will not have a worn oil pump. It takes many thousands of miles of poor maintenance to wear out it out. This is not saying an internal failure like the shaft or chain braking couldn’t produce a defective damaged pump. Given what we know, it’s hard to believe the “pressure relief valve” is stuck open because pressure would be nominal if any and since it’s sporadic at first proves that it’s not the valve stuck.

Sporadic loss of pressure can be attributed to debris, thin oil, or external leak. Unfortunately, posing these questions to what may or may not be a common issue with the gl1500 has proved pointless. Pressure is needed to pump the lifters, and for most part they are being pumped and rarely have valve train noise.

Sorry I’m late to respond back to both you and previous person. I’ve been busy and my brother and I have since been running the engine and rectifying some issues, one being the oil pump of which seems to improve more and more as it’s ran and seafoamed. Sometimes you have to test the boundaries and go for a Hail Mary on things. Although we came close we have yet to blow the engine or it seize up, and if it does then at that time would it prove beneficial to walk away. Thank you both for what you have suggested!
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Rambozo
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Re: Oil pump/pressure sensor

Post by Rambozo »

The low pressure wasn't what worried me. That there was water in it is why I said it really needs to come apart. As long as you are willing to do that, have at it. Anything else is a gamble that you might lose on. If you don't care about the engine, again, have at it. You never answered if you put a gauge on it. Maybe the pressure switch is junk. It all depends on how much you value your time and if you really want the bike to be reliable.
84wing1200a
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Re: Oil pump/pressure sensor

Post by 84wing1200a »

Rambozo wrote: Wed Dec 14, 2022 4:59 am The low pressure wasn't what worried me. That there was water in it is why I said it really needs to come apart. As long as you are willing to do that, have at it. Anything else is a gamble that you might lose on. If you don't care about the engine, again, have at it. You never answered if you put a gauge on it. Maybe the pressure switch is junk. It all depends on how much you value your time and if you really want the bike to be reliable.
Yea, water in the system is alarming at the very least. Though, I personally have have never ran into an issue with getting bike or motor back into service. Though, those bike generally were not ones that sat in such a state that cause that level of trauma, or I never bought one that looked like a 25% parts and 75% rusty/destroyed condition. I targeted the ones that had promise to repair. The closes one I had was a VT750 that literally was a mess and billowed rust dust for solid 5 mins and took couple months to get running. That was for a friend who was dead set on seeing it run, also it was a challenge on my part, that bike was not worth the effort. But she ran with real bad blow by.

Once the bike is aquired, and the result is a weak oil pump or what have you. Well there lies the question of not running away, as in doing so you lose your monies you placed in the project. I would do what can be done to salvage the bike and if the motor blew in the process, well damn if you do and damn if you dont. either way you no more further than you was when you first started. Run her till she blows, these old metric crusiers are not worth anything after certain amount of time and so the loss is not that substantial. Pricing a new motor is even more so, they cost as much as just buying a complete parts part, that mind you, may or may not have the ability to run or replace your current machine.
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Re: Oil pump/pressure sensor

Post by newday777 »

Ffmedic166 wrote: Tue Dec 06, 2022 6:27 pm Another member of this fourm, my brother! Has recently got a gl1500 and has through process of getting it to run has rebuilt carbs. Bike runs but oil light stays on and at times will flicker off for an indeterminate amount of time. Mostly will stay on.

The crankcase was filled with approx 14 quarts, yes you read that right…14qts of oil/water mix. We can only assume that it sat so long that water made it way in the crank. It made a hell of mess with left carb and intake runners. He has cleaned and even did two oil flushes where is oil just flowing through.

The light for oil comes on and flickers. He removed it (sensor) and started the bike. At first the oil/water mix just trickled out. Then after some time and him removing it again it started pumping out oil. He is worried the pump is shot, i on the other handle refuse to believe this to be the case cause it metal and would take years of poor oil maintenance to wear down the pump.

Also side note: the bike runs and has ticking sometimes one side to even both as if the lifters are pumping up from pressure. He also has a mid to high rpm bog (3-4k rpm), he is skilled in rebuilding carbs as I am too so not sure as if it would be actual carb issue… he is right now ready to just throw it all away and walk away from the bike.
You didn't say what the history of the bike was.
Was this an insurance company sale bike through a broker?
Had it been in a flood to get all that water in the motor?
Or was it left outside in the elements naked by a previous owner without the plastics on and the air cleaner open to the elements for water to puddle in the air cleaner?
How long had it sat with the water in it before your brother got it and discovered the water in the oil?
Either way, that's a lot of water.
It sounds like the water caused corrosion in the oil passages causing blockages in the oil ports.
It sounds like you've been running Seafoam through the oil flushes and it's getting better from your last reply?(you've not been giving some important information in your original post and reply)

Have you removed any of the oil gallery plugs to inspect for gunk/corrosion in each gallery plug passage ways?
This isn't a normal problem on the 6 cylinder bikes and the oil gallery plugs don't normally get removed (except by newbies thinking they are drain plugs). You will have to seal the plug threads when reinstalled with pipe thread dope(not so much that excess dope gets into the gallery).
Otherwise I would suspect corrosion in the oil pumps or oil passages especially to the lifters and other important galleries that the oil needs to be free flowing through if it sat with water in in for a long time.

If bad enough to ruin the motor, another option is to find another motor from a wreck and transplant it. Options are available depending on budget and costs, vs desire.
Ffmedic166
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2022 5:00 pm
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 SE

Re: Oil pump/pressure sensor

Post by Ffmedic166 »

It’s running and runs good after about 4 oil changes and full can of sea foam. It rattled like crazy. We decided before the last oil change and a can of the sea foam flowing through we ran the piss out of it. Redline and tempting it to blow, it was rattling so much we were sure the lifters were not getting pumped up. Then it would just be hit and miss with rattling and oil light flickering and staying on.

After about a tank of gas and hot riding it all over the place. It stopped rattling. Final oil change…light stays off and the rattling went away.

The bike was fully dressed, no clue how water made it way in the motor. The carb were bad and need base carb replaced. Bike runs great.



newday777 wrote: Sun Jan 01, 2023 4:23 am
Ffmedic166 wrote: Tue Dec 06, 2022 6:27 pm Another member of this fourm, my brother! Has recently got a gl1500 and has through process of getting it to run has rebuilt carbs. Bike runs but oil light stays on and at times will flicker off for an indeterminate amount of time. Mostly will stay on.

The crankcase was filled with approx 14 quarts, yes you read that right…14qts of oil/water mix. We can only assume that it sat so long that water made it way in the crank. It made a hell of mess with left carb and intake runners. He has cleaned and even did two oil flushes where is oil just flowing through.

The light for oil comes on and flickers. He removed it (sensor) and started the bike. At first the oil/water mix just trickled out. Then after some time and him removing it again it started pumping out oil. He is worried the pump is shot, i on the other handle refuse to believe this to be the case cause it metal and would take years of poor oil maintenance to wear down the pump.

Also side note: the bike runs and has ticking sometimes one side to even both as if the lifters are pumping up from pressure. He also has a mid to high rpm bog (3-4k rpm), he is skilled in rebuilding carbs as I am too so not sure as if it would be actual carb issue… he is right now ready to just throw it all away and walk away from the bike.
You didn't say what the history of the bike was.
Was this an insurance company sale bike through a broker?
Had it been in a flood to get all that water in the motor?
Or was it left outside in the elements naked by a previous owner without the plastics on and the air cleaner open to the elements for water to puddle in the air cleaner?
How long had it sat with the water in it before your brother got it and discovered the water in the oil?
Either way, that's a lot of water.
It sounds like the water caused corrosion in the oil passages causing blockages in the oil ports.
It sounds like you've been running Seafoam through the oil flushes and it's getting better from your last reply?(you've not been giving some important information in your original post and reply)

Have you removed any of the oil gallery plugs to inspect for gunk/corrosion in each gallery plug passage ways?
This isn't a normal problem on the 6 cylinder bikes and the oil gallery plugs don't normally get removed (except by newbies thinking they are drain plugs). You will have to seal the plug threads when reinstalled with pipe thread dope(not so much that excess dope gets into the gallery).
Otherwise I would suspect corrosion in the oil pumps or oil passages especially to the lifters and other important galleries that the oil needs to be free flowing through if it sat with water in in for a long time.

If bad enough to ruin the motor, another option is to find another motor from a wreck and transplant it. Options are available depending on budget and costs, vs desire.


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