Help! I can't fix my turn signals, flashers and horn

[Ironboy]

I have a 1991 GL1500 SE with 246,000km. I am the second owner. It had been sitting for over 20 years. Last year I fully restored it and everything worked perfectly. I rode it for about 13,000km and then suddenly my Turn signals, Flashers and Horn all stopped working at the same time. Everything else on the bike is still working perfectly. It runs and drives like a new bike. I replaced the Turn signal cancel switch...still no signals. Then I replaced the Left Switchgear assembly...still no signals. Then I replaced the Turn Signal and Flasher Relays under the trunk...still no signals. The mechanical restoration of the bike was easy compared to this Turn signal issue. I have a clymer manual with electrical schematics, but it looks like Latin to me. I know nothing about electrical. I don't even own a volt meter (if that's what its called). I'm looking for any help anyone can provide. I live in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, just in case any members live near here and know electrical on older Goldwing's. I have been riding the bike without signals, but my arm is getting real sore
Thanks for your help

[Rambozo]

Throwing parts at a problem is rarely a good solution. Have you checked all your fuses? Without a volt meter and the skills to use it, doing electrical trouble shooting might be something you want to pass to someone else.
Also check that your rear brake pedal lights work.

[Ironboy]

Thanks for replying,
I have checked all the fuses and their all good.
All other lighting on the bike works as well as every other function of the bike, except the Turn signals, flashers and horn.
The rear and front brakes all turn the brake lights on.
I replaced the left switchgear because the turn signal switch was very loose so I thought that might be the problem. And the turn signals did originally work for 13,000km.
From what I could find online the next culprit might have been the turn signal cancel switch, so I replaced it.
Then watching some of Scott's videos he was saying that Relays can often be the culprit of electrical issue on the 1500's, so I replaced the Turn signal and flasher relays.
Since none of this has worked, I'm thinking I likely have a break in a wire or maybe a wire has worn thru and is not not grounded properly??
However, I don't own a volt meter and don't know how to use one (I'm happy to get one and learn).
Any suggestion as to what one to buy? I assume it would need alligator clips as well as the 2 probe ends?
I have a great mechanic who I have been using , however he says it would cost thousands in labor costs for him to try to track down the problem. He even suggested just replacing the whole wiring harness as it would likely be cheaper. Obviously I can't dump unlimited money into this project. The bike is only worth so much.
I bought the bike and color matched Escapade trailer for $500 and then spent an additional $5000 to restore both.
Turn signals are kinda a must for me as no one can see my arm waving around at night as I signal
Thanks for your help.

[DenverWinger]

Relay #1 is for horns and turn signals (Top left in Relay Box). Swap it with #2, the one to the right of it (stoplights) and see if the problem follows the relay.

[Ironboy]

On my bike the Relays are labeled:
#1 Relay is for Headlight (lo)
#2 Relay is for Stop lights
#3 Relay is for Tail (main)
I put new 20A Relays that I got from Scott into position #2 and #3, still no signals
No Relays are labeled Horn on the outside of the cover

[DenverWinger]

OK, sorry there may be differences in '91 schematics, mine are for a '94. Don't have info for a '91.

Keep swapping relays around, you may get lucky.

[Rambozo]

Is that a Canadian Edition? No idea if that makes a difference to the wiring, but it might. I should have a 92 wiring diagram, but it's in storage at the moment. I'm pretty sure I don't have a 91 diagram.
I would track down a real Honda wiring diagram. I can pretty much guaranty the Clymer will be close, but not quite right.
To be blunt, if your mechanic says it would cost thousands to diagnose broken turn signals, he is not "great".
Any volt meter will do the job. Even a test light would probably work, but a meter is better. A cheap meter actually has an advantage as the limited features will make it easier to learn to use. If this is a one time thing, just get one from Princess Auto or Cambodian Tire.
What you want to do is follow the path of power and ground, starting at the battery and ending at the light bulbs. Somewhere along that path you will lose power or ground and that will tell you what the problem is.
For example, if there is power at the battery, then it goes to the fusebox, in to the ignition switch, but doesn't come out of the ignition switch, then there is your problem. Or if it comes out of the ignition switch and should go to a second fuse, but power isn't there, then the problem is the wire that connects the ignition switch to that fuse. You can try to track down where it is broken, or just run a replacement wire. Replacing the wire might be faster, but finding the fault might head off other problems as you might find a wire bundle is being crushed between moving parts and it's only a matter of time until other things in that bundle fail.

[plain]

When you say you replaced the left switchgear were all functions working before you replaced as well as afterward up to when the 3 hoodlums quit? I've never had mine off but since they are all within an inch or so from each other that might be something to look at especially if you didn't go through the switch you put in. Maybe a loose part in there. From what I can tell each of these switches get power from a different wire but I could be wrong the diagram I have isn't the best. If you take the switch apart see if each switch apparatus receives power when it it supposed to and that would put you 50% of the way to finding out. Does the dimmer switch work?

And yeah, you need a meter regardless. Even the cheapest ones do a lot of different things so your money isn't wasted.