Rear tire damper holder holder arrows not lined up

[MaineStreet]

Hi all. 99 GL1500. Took the rear tire off today (that was an experience). I noticed that the arrows on the damper and the wheel are not aligned. To be aligned, the damper holder would need to be rotated some (about an eighth of a turn). I'm curious to know why the alignment and whether aligning the holder is a routine maintenance item or a set it and forget it item.

Thanks!

[klppdx70]

Should be a 'set it and forget it'. I installed new rear dampers on mine a few months ago. It was easy to rotate the damper plate by hand during removal, but I had a bear of a time engaging it and lining it up again, with the added friction of the new rubber. Finally was able to get it in place with significant effort.

If it moves into position for you now, I'd be surprised if it came out of adjustment again. If I remember correctly, the rotation direction of the plate should be counter to forward wheel rotation.

[klppdx70]

Forgot to add - as for the arrow, I did not notice anything special about the location of the arrow on the plate, relative to the other potential location achieved with full engagement of the plate. So I believe it is there simply to mark full engagement.

[MaineStreet]

Also, is it normal for the drive flange to become disassociated with the wheel when removing? That was the biggest PIA. Had to align the drive flange pins with the dampener and reassociate the parts, then use a flat blade screw driver to 'help' the flange to exit the final drive splines while keeping the wheel/flange as one. This was the only way to remove the tire. I lived and I learned, and busted a couple of knuckles, too.

[plain]

It helps to shim the tire/wheel assy before trying to remove. If it's misaligned the "Spider" will be easier to come out than the splined part. Also easier to reinstall.

[MaineStreet]

Plain, when you say shim the rear wheel, do you mean support it from below? I can see how that would reduce the leverage force at the splines, reducing the likelihood that the spider comes off the wheel.

Thanks.for.the pro tip!

[plain]

Yes, when I took my wheel off a few weeks ago I got shims and pushed them underneath from both sides til tight them marked them so I could put them back the same way when I installed. I took the wheel on and off several times to make sure all was okay and once with the driven flange in the wheel and once without. The shims helped a lot when I had to realign the wheel and match the driven flange pins to the bushings. Otherwise when you get one pin in and try to mount the wheel everything just turns. Also I put the transmission in gear which helped. My age is showing. In the "old" days I could have just held the wheel up till I got everything right.

[MaineStreet]

Hi Scot your response is timely. Today, I spent the day removing the air shock, final drive and drive shaft. They all looked good, so I cleaned them up, replaced the 140 ml of shock fluid with ATF, lubricated the splines, drained and replaced final drive oil and put it all back together. I also put a new rear tire on, new 90 degree valve stem, and balance beads. When I put the tire back on, I found it easier to insert the axle without the brake bracket. Doing this help align the splines on the output shaft of the final drive. Once I got the tire splines on the final drive I wrapped a rachet strap around the tire hub and final drive. Once the strap was tight, I pulled the axle bolt and inserted the spacers and brake bracket. Worked like a charm.

I can see why folks lie their bikes on the side to remove and install the rear wheel. It's nice to be putting parts back on the bike!! Getting there with the maintenance items. It's snowing out now so not in a super hurry

[plain]

Wow, that is a good tip on aligning everything on the wheel before putting in the bracket! I am SOOOO glad we don't get much snow!