Idle Drop Procedure

[Jmicester24]

Hello Folks!

This week, I am going to attempt the idle drop procedure on my 1999 1500. Last year, I replaced the belts and fuel pump. Since then I have been running rich. From the intel I have gathered, this procedure will get it running back to how it was prior to the belt and pump being changed.
This will be my first time attempting something like this. I cannot find a good video online of, but the directions from the manual seem somewhat straightforward. Is there any thing I should be aware of prior to doing this procedure?

Thanks

[Jmicester24]

I've been having a tough time finding the pilot screws. I was under the impression that no Tupperware removal was necessary to access the pilot screws. When I went to attempt it today, I looked above the radiator and all I seen was hoses and cables. The manual makes it look so easy! Haha. Is any Tupperware removal necessary? Any advice from anyone that has attempted this procedure on their 1500?

[AceCycleNut]

Good morning.
I just joined this forum although I have been here reading since I bought a 93 SE. I wish I would have educated myself a little more before buying but that's another story.
I have been doing a LOT of stuff to my bike since I brought it home. But right now I'm in the same place as you are with the idle drop adjustment after a total rebuilding of the carbs.
I have an advantage over you in that I have all my Tupperware removed and I just put the carbs back on the bike so I know where to look for the screws. Also it doesn't hurt that I painted the screws bright orange before putting the carbs back on.
There are two diamond shaped holes in the front "grill" that you can stick a long screwdriver or D shaped adjusting tool to adjust the idle drop. The trouble is seeing what you need to see! I changed my mixture screws from the D shape to the slotted type but I still can't see what I'm doing because my screwdriver is to short and My hand blocks the light and my view. Also it's not a straight shot at the screws. That makes it hard to get the screwdriver onto the screws because they are so small.
In theory it's possible to do it without removing the Tupperware but I think it's less of a headache to do than trying to work through the small holes. It would be very difficult to get enough light in there to see where to go. Those Tupperware pieces are pretty easy to remove. And then you can sort of push Plug wires and stuff out of the way to see better. The rubber mat could be blocking your line of sight too.
I think I'm going to pull my carbs again and put the D shaped screws in because it will be easier to get the tool onto them as opposed to a slotted screwdriver. But that leads me to the next problem. I have been looking for a tool to fit the D shaped mixture screws for Honda. All I'm finding are for slotted screws and have a 110 degree bend. We need a tool with just a slight bend....maybe 15 or 20 degrees of bend at the end.
I had the idea to make my own using a bit of speedo cable inside of some type of tubing. I will be able to bend it to the shape I need to reach straight onto the screws. Parts on the way for that. After I thought about that I checked Youtube and sure enough there is a video showing just what I was thinking. This guy uses a small metal lathe to make some of the parts but if you don't have a lathe you can stick a drill motor in the vice to hold it and chuck the screw into the drill and use a file to work it down to the diameter you want. And you don't need to knurl knobs or braze the parts like the video. Plane old soft soldier will do.

Here's the link to the video.



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I hope that sheds some light on the situation.

Ride Safe

ACN

[Rambozo]

I got one of these over 30 years ago. It has saved the day so many times I've lost count.
https://shop.snapon.com/product/Carbure ... -Tool/TM65
There are special bits for most carbs that surround and drive the screws so they don't slip.

[Jmicester24]

Good morning.
I just joined this forum although I have been here reading since I bought a 93 SE. I wish I would have educated myself a little more before buying but that's another story.
I have been doing a LOT of stuff to my bike since I brought it home. But right now I'm in the same place as you are with the idle drop adjustment after a total rebuilding of the carbs.
I have an advantage over you in that I have all my Tupperware removed and I just put the carbs back on the bike so I know where to look for the screws. Also it doesn't hurt that I painted the screws bright orange before putting the carbs back on.
There are two diamond shaped holes in the front "grill" that you can stick a long screwdriver or D shaped adjusting tool to adjust the idle drop. The trouble is seeing what you need to see! I changed my mixture screws from the D shape to the slotted type but I still can't see what I'm doing because my screwdriver is to short and My hand blocks the light and my view. Also it's not a straight shot at the screws. That makes it hard to get the screwdriver onto the screws because they are so small.
In theory it's possible to do it without removing the Tupperware but I think it's less of a headache to do than trying to work through the small holes. It would be very difficult to get enough light in there to see where to go. Those Tupperware pieces are pretty easy to remove. And then you can sort of push Plug wires and stuff out of the way to see better. The rubber mat could be blocking your line of sight too.
I think I'm going to pull my carbs again and put the D shaped screws in because it will be easier to get the tool onto them as opposed to a slotted screwdriver. But that leads me to the next problem. I have been looking for a tool to fit the D shaped mixture screws for Honda. All I'm finding are for slotted screws and have a 110 degree bend. We need a tool with just a slight bend....maybe 15 or 20 degrees of bend at the end.
I had the idea to make my own using a bit of speedo cable inside of some type of tubing. I will be able to bend it to the shape I need to reach straight onto the screws. Parts on the way for that. After I thought about that I checked Youtube and sure enough there is a video showing just what I was thinking. This guy uses a small metal lathe to make some of the parts but if you don't have a lathe you can stick a drill motor in the vice to hold it and chuck the screw into the drill and use a file to work it down to the diameter you want. And you don't need to knurl knobs or braze the parts like the video. Plane old soft soldier will do.

Here's the link to the video.



   Never miss a video: Subscribe to the GoldwingDocs YouTube channel today!


I hope that sheds some light on the situation.

Ride Safe

ACN

Welcome!

I appreciate your response. I bought a carb flex screw driver, I will put a photo below, perhaps that will help you. I will take a look at the video after im off work. What parts of the Tupperware woukd you recommend to remove to gain better access to the pilot screws?

[WingAdmin]

I've got this one: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool ... ref=sr_1_1

[ct1500]

Going in from the front is essentially an exercise in futility and frustration. I use one of these.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0229
Loosen the air cleaner and move it back a bit with vacuum lines still connected underneath. Start the process with mixture screws turned out 2 turns accessing from above. Turn screws out 1/8 turn at a time going from one side to the other until max stable RPM is reached. Turn each back in 1/8 turn. The idle will drop a bit. When air box and filter are buttoned back up the slight restriction in intake air will richen it back up a smidge leaving you just slightly lean which is where you want to be. If mixture screws end up being 1/8 turn or more in difference between them then there are usually other issues going on. i.e. vacuum leaks or carb issues the usual culprits. Make sure bike is on centerstand so it is level when doing.

[Jmicester24]

Going in from the front is essentially an exercise in futility and frustration. I use one of these.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0229
Loosen the air cleaner and move it back a bit with vacuum lines still connected underneath. Start the process with mixture screws turned out 2 turns accessing from above. Turn screws out 1/8 turn at a time going from one side to the other until max stable RPM is reached. Turn each back in 1/8 turn. The idle will drop a bit. When air box and filter are buttoned back up the slight restriction in intake air will richen it back up a smidge leaving you just slightly lean which is where you want to be. If mixture screws end up being 1/8 turn or more in difference between them then there are usually other issues going on. i.e. vacuum leaks or carb issues the usual culprits. Make sure bike is on centerstand so it is level when doing.

I think I am going to buy that tool. I'm going to order it off Amazon. I will tackle it next week. What do you mean by max stable idle?

[mrbelvedere]

Going in from the front is essentially an exercise in futility and frustration. I use one of these.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0229
Loosen the air cleaner and move it back a bit with vacuum lines still connected underneath. Start the process with mixture screws turned out 2 turns accessing from above. Turn screws out 1/8 turn at a time going from one side to the other until max stable RPM is reached. Turn each back in 1/8 turn. The idle will drop a bit. When air box and filter are buttoned back up the slight restriction in intake air will richen it back up a smidge leaving you just slightly lean which is where you want to be. If mixture screws end up being 1/8 turn or more in difference between them then there are usually other issues going on. i.e. vacuum leaks or carb issues the usual culprits. Make sure bike is on centerstand so it is level when doing.

does this tool have the correct bit for the gw carb and is the d shape male or female

[WingAdmin]

Interesting, that Motion Pro tool is available on Amazon, I may have to pick one up.

[ct1500]

Female bit for the Honda "D" mixture screw.