93 gl1500A start button help needed

[Lude714]

Hello, I am stuck at the moment. My start button has been dying a slow death. I have been having to wiggle or press in strange angles to get it to make contact with all the contact points in order to start it for a while now. But, now i here and feel the relays and solenoids clicking but no starter turning. It was really bad yesterday. I am wondering which wires i cross to get one last start out of it to get home. I do have an after switch at home. Just been procrastinating. I do have a doorbell button on me. So i was thinking 2 wires to one side and 2 to the other and that would get me home so i can fix it properly. But which wires go together. Im pretty sure its 2 pair one pair in and one pair out. But i dont know which ones i should pair together. Thanks in advance and im tearing open the switch housing now to get the start button out. Im sure it's going to be obvious once i do. But i prefer the confirmation of this site.

[Rambozo]

When you push the button, Black/Lt.Green and Yellow/Red are connected while Brown/White and Blue/White are opened.
Might be easier to jump the starter down at the starter relays.

[Lude714]

Well im starting to think it's my starter. Only because i can hear and feel the relay and solenoids clicking. I still haven't bypassed the start button. A friend rescued me with his trailer and winch. So it is home. This would be way easier if a certain child of mine didnt lose my volt meter playing mechanic. Im about to tear into it now. I will post updates. Any random thoughts are always appreciated.

[Lude714]

Well bypassing the start button didn't work. What sensors could block the starter from working? The bank angle sensor, reverse lever sensor, kickstand sensor.... Any others?

[Lude714]

Any thoughts on what to check would be appreciated. I unfortunately am without my volt meter. A "friend" borrowed it and hasn't returned it yet. Go figure.

[Rambozo]

Then rig up a test light. Unless you can see electrons, you can't really tell what is going on. Just because the starter relay clicks, doesn't mean it is passing power to the starter. A test light at the threaded terminals will tell you if you have power going in and out. Check relays A and B
All the safeties work by blocking the signal to the relays, so if they are clicking that confirms all the safeties are fine.

If you have power going into and out of both A and B, check for power at the starter. If there is power, your starter needs to come out for service/replacement. If there is no power, find out where it stops.

Almost forgot, also check all the ground wires, too. Make sure there is a good ground to the engine case from the battery.

[Jkjiv]

Just a thought and you might have already checked but mine was doing the same thing when I first bought it last year and it turned out to be the battery terminal was loose. I would have power but when I tried to crank the starter it would break contact.

[Lude714]

Well i got juice to the ignition. That relay was loose. Removed and put it back in and got spark back. Still no starter when i push the start button. But if i jump 12v to the starter it cranks. I have a screwdriver rigged with a battery cable for now. Going to remove and test all the pertinent relays properly with a 9v battery. Terminals and grounds good and tight. I even added an extra from the motor to frame and battery to frame. That way no questions there. Redundant I know

[Rambozo]

The best way to test the relays is on the bike.
You said both the starter relays (A and B) were clicking when you hit the button, is that still true?
If so, you just need to check for power at the input and output terminals when you hit the button.
You will probably find one of them is not passing power as the contacts inside are burnt.

[Lude714]

So its definitely the starter relay/solenoid B. Now my question is, What is the point of that part? Couldn't you just eliminate it and bolt the 12v in and 12v out together? Also is it worthwhile to open up the solenoid and try to Emory the contacts? I know that's just a temporary bandaid.

[Rambozo]

I believe it is because of the reverse system. They have a bunch of things added on to the starting system for that, and with all analog circuitry it was probably just easier to split it over two relays.
I have never tried to open those, but I have done that for a lot of other relays, contactors, etc. So, give it a try, it's already broken so you have nothing to lose. Just beware of the springs that you will need to catch. Often several are used in high current relays and contactors.