Starting Engine while in Gear

[GBKid]

Correct me if I’m wrong, but shouldn’t I be able to start my engine while still in gear while pulling the clutch lever? I have a 2000 GL1500SE and I’m pretty sure in the past I could start the engine while in gear. I suspect the problem is in the clutch lever switch that deactivates the cruise control if the clutch lever is pulled when the cruise control is activated. I tried that and that works, but not for starting in gear. Any suggestions? Thanks.

[Swagonmaster]

If I remember correctly there are two microswitches on the left side, one for the cruise control and one for the start enable so you might look further. And yes you should be able to pull the clutch and start with it in gear.

[GBKid]

Yes, those are there. The switches are not sticking, but I cleaned them with contact cleaner nevertheless and still same problem. When I try to start the engines in gear with the clutch lever pulled, all of the battery power is diverted to the starter as it should be, but the starter doesn’t turn over at all. Is there something else besides the clutch switches I should check?

[GBKid]

I should also clarify that I did not remove the switch, I just removed the clutch handle to get better access to the switch with the contact cleaner. I hosed it down pretty good, but there still may be dirt in it or it is defective and cleaning won’t make a difference. However, I find it curious the battery power is completely diverted to the starter circuit while trying to start it in gear with the clutch lever pulled, but the start doesn’t turn over. Does a properly functioning clutch switch complete the circuit to activate the starter motor or is there something else?

[Rambozo]

You also need to have the side stand up. How about measuring the switch? It is a very common fault as the switch is not really sealed. In fact, on some you can see the contacts through a hole.

The switch is switching the ground that comes from the side stand switch (grn/wht) to the starter relay (grn/red) via a reverse relay and a diode pack.
If you don't have a way to measure the switch, you can always unplug it and jump the two wires together. If it now starts in gear, the switch is faulty.

[GBKid]

Thank you Rambozo, I will check that next and have an answer for you tomorrow!

[WingAdmin]

Correct me if I’m wrong, but shouldn’t I be able to start my engine while still in gear while pulling the clutch lever? I have a 2000 GL1500SE and I’m pretty sure in the past I could start the engine while in gear. I suspect the problem is in the clutch lever switch that deactivates the cruise control if the clutch lever is pulled when the cruise control is activated. I tried that and that works, but not for starting in gear. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Is your kickstand down when you are trying this?

[GBKid]

No it is not, which leads me to believe the kickstand switch is not the issue. The kickstand switch works as designed when the kickstand is down and I try starting the engine in neutral. It must be the clutch lever switch unless there’s something else. I will completely remove the switch, clean, test, and inspect it off the bike.

[Bonnie and Clyde]

No it is not, which leads me to believe the kickstand switch is not the issue. The kickstand switch works as designed when the kickstand is down and I try starting the engine in neutral. It must be the clutch lever switch unless there’s something else. I will completely remove the switch, clean, test, and inspect it off the bike.

Try pulling up on the clutch lever a bit when fully pulled into the grip. Mine wont start in gear unless I make a point of pulling up a bit then it will start in gear.

[GBKid]

Fixed it! Bonnie and Clyde, I tried what you suggested and voila! it started while in gear. That got me to thinking that the switch wasn’t being depressed far enough to complete the circuit. Rambozo, I completely removed the switch, cleaned it with electrical contact cleaner real good, and then gently and slightly bent the fixed contact on the left closer to the movable contact on the right so they would contact one another when the clutch lever is pulled (see attached photo). I also repositioned the switch ever so slightly before I tightened the fastener screw when reinstalling it.

[GBKid]

Thanks everybody for your help!

[GBKid]

As it turns out my “Jerry Rig” didn’t last long. I have ordered a new switch. Yes, when I pull up on the handle it works about 50% of the time after it worked every time for a few pulls. It appears the old switch is just worn out. I suspect a new switch will remedy the issue. After I install the new switch next week I will report back with the results.

[Crusty1]

If you have aftermarket chrome clutch levers they are often machined incorrectly and do not fully depress the two switches.

[GBKid]

I purchased a Honda OEM replacement part.

[Sadanorakman]

Did you check the lever pin for wear? These wear to becone eccentric with time, and the gap to the switch plungers increases. Enough wear and the switch actuation becomes unreliable.

All these microswitches are good fun. I filled up last week, and had used reverse to back up a bit. Lo and behold, couldn't then get a neutral light or a start, so my reverse microswitch is sticking!!!

[Charlie1Horse]

I purchased a set of chrome brake and clutch levers for my 92 GL1500 Interstate last year and found that problem you are having with yours. I then replaced the bushing for the clutch lever and had no success. Then I removed the lever and compared it to the original and found that it was just a bit smaller than the OEM. I took some metallic 2" tape that the A/C guys use for the duckwork in the attic and cut quarter inch wide strips from it. I used them along the edge that operates the micro switch. I had to layer about five strips to get the micro switch to operate and then cut a wider strip to overlap them and fold over the sides of the lever. This has worked for me for over a year now with absolutely no problems at all. This may not be proper but it seems to be a fix that will last and, the tape doesn't seem to release after time.
Russell

[GBKid]

I did. I’m certain the problem is the switch on two fronts. The tip of the plastic plunger of the switch is worn and it doesn’t push in far enough for the switch to function as designed. Secondly, the diode contacts are also worn and seem to be the major issue. After I install the new switch next week I’ll know for sure, but it doesn’t seem the clutch lever metal that presses up against the switch is the issue because it is metal on the plastic plunger of the switch. I’m pretty confident it is the switch.

[Swagonmaster]

I am just now having a similar problem but with the right side switches. My cruise control has been intermittant in setting unless I push the brake lever outward and noticed that as has been pointed out that the chrome lever isn't pushing the switch as far as it could/should but in working on it I realized that if it is quiet in the room I can easily hear the clicks of the switches as they close. This has made it a lot easier to tell if I am making any progress in curing the issue so you might pay attention to that as well to tell if your problem is fixed or not.

[Rambozo]

It's a lot better to use a meter or a test light. Just because a switch clicks, doesn't mean it's working. I've seen people chase all over for what turned out to be a simple faulty switch.

[GBKid]

The switch is inexpensive so I will just replace it. After I installed it next week I’ll let y’all know the results. Thanks for all the input.

[Swagonmaster]

It's a lot better to use a meter or a test light. Just because a switch clicks, doesn't mean it's working. I've seen people chase all over for what turned out to be a simple faulty switch.

Normally I would agree totally but in this case I am talking about a switch that is not being pushed far enough by the lever, in that case it makes a useful aid to diagnosis.

[offcenter]

On mine, the lever was not pushing the switch in far enough.
A new switch didn't cure the problem.
I applied a thin layer of the very hard PC7 epoxy to the end of the clutch lever, then sanded it smooth once it completely cured.
End of problem.
A little extra material on the end of the clutch lever was all it needed.

[Swagonmaster]

Actually, that is exactly what I've done to cure mine, it just needs some more height.

[Sadanorakman]

It's a lot better to use a meter or a test light. Just because a switch clicks, doesn't mean it's working. I've seen people chase all over for what turned out to be a simple faulty switch.

Normally I would agree totally but in this case I am talking about a switch that is not being pushed far enough by the lever, in that case it makes a useful aid to diagnosis.

I also agree. I find myself listening for the clicks of those microswitches when I sit on the bike without the engine running, and pull either the front brake or the clutch-lever.
I like how the two clutch-lever switches operate one at a time.

[GBKid]

I replaced the switch and it completed remedied the problem. The old switch was worn both on the top of the plunger switch and the how far the plunger had to travel to activate the switch. Thanks for everyone’s help and suggestions!