LED fuse/relay

[sidecarwilliam]

Quick question, which fuse and or relay controls the LED?

Thanks,

bill.

[offcenter]

WHICH led?
My bike has dozens of 'em.

[Rambozo]

And stock they have none.

I'm guessing you mean the LCD?

The main ones are fuse 10 and fuse 13. Some of the other inputs like the radio and the air suspension will also have fuses needed to send signals for that part of the display.

[sidecarwilliam]

I did indeed mean LCD. Got a bunch of other work here that involves LEDs, sorry about that.
I have dried and coated the unit and it seemed to be working alright and just now it either comes on and works just fine or it does not come on at all and neither do the lights for it. The clock is random. The biggest problem for me is not being able to check or change the air in the rear shock.
After all that I begin to apricate my Valkyrie even more for its lack of fancy stuff. But the wing sure is comfy, but it does not pull a sidecar and trailer.
Thanks for you help and guidance in this matter. And for the last time also.
Time to chase fuses and relays (?).

bill.

[sidecarwilliam]

I am still having problems with my LCD display and function. I have opened the fuse panel and the relay cover and visually checked every fuse and relay with the battery hooked up.
I have random displays if I have any. Sometimes everything works as it should. Most times I get no display.
And sometimes the display stays on even with the key off, only pulling fuse10 clears it.
The LCD was removed and cleaned, dried and sealed and seemed to work but now it does not. The bike was parked inside and not ridden. Two or three months passed and upon restarting everything was fine. I went out to go for a ride and now have the above stated problem, sometimes a display and sometimes not and sometimes a random radio display even when the radio is off. Radio was repaired by Sierra Electronics last year.
I am about at wits end and am not looking forward to pulling the dash apart unless it is absolutely necessary.
Any help is apricated.

bill.

[Rambozo]

Sure sounds like a bad LCD driver board. Might be repairable, might not.

[FM-USA]

Like Rambozo said...

Sure sounds like a bad LCD driver board. Might be repairable, might not.

I just LITERALLY just got done re-flowing the solder connections on a main board (non-Wing) and it works flawlessly now.
In these (ah-HEM) modern times these connections will crack or pull up away from the main-board.
An inexpensive 30 watt soldering pen will re-flow the solder by touching each until they turn shiny.
Flux really isn't needed but keep it handy just in case.

If you're not familiar with soldering, don't over heat, just stop for a few moments & start again with the tip on the same pin in a different place.

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[sidecarwilliam]

A BIG thank you to all that helped.
I believe I have found the culprit and it is the fuse in the Relay box.
After removing all of the fuses to check them ( they all looked good and tested good) I remove that fuse and checked it because the LCD would not turn completely off . I finally replaced it and checked it again and the LCD came on as it should but lost t rack of time. I removed and replaced the new fuse a couple of times and now all is well.
It appears the contact of the fuse blades was not as it should be. I am unable to get in and clean the contacts but I believe the remove/replace movement cleaned them somewhat and all is well now.
Thanks to all for the suggestions.
This site has really helped me to enjoy my SE.

bill.

[FM-USA]

I have a metal fingernail file with diamond dust that does a nice job of cleaning those connectors. Revlon?
NO-no, gift from sis-n-law for my early years in mechanics. She quoted Twilight Zone: "NEEDFUL THINGS".
Tho you'll need to tighten the female connector. Small flat screwdriver press closed or a needle nose pliers squeeze.


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[sidecarwilliam]

That gives me an idea. I will use emery cloth on the fuse blades and I do have a small screw driver that only real use has been to mix JB Weld.

[FM-USA]

That gives me an idea. I will use emery cloth on the fuse blades and I do have a small screw driver that only real use has been to mix JB Weld.

We think alike.
Emory cloth & screwdriver mixer & tight area inserter.


.

[sidecarwilliam]

Bad news for me.
After going out for the last couple of days and turning on the bike to find the correct time displayed and the pump working, today nothing.
Went to try the emery cloth idea and found a divider in the way. Pulled and reinserted the fuse a few times and tried inserting the emery cloth to no avail.
At my wits end as when it works it works great and then nothing. That is without moving the bike or anything else.
Someone mentioned a driver for the board. Is that part of the board or something else??
Would not like to pull the dash apart again unless there is something that can actually be done.
Any ideas???
Thanks much for the help.

bill.

[sidecarwilliam]

Sure sounds like a bad LCD driver board. Might be repairable, might not.

Is the driver part of the LCD? If I order a Tanin LCD replacement would that include a new driver?
I am tiring of chasing this problem instead of being out riding and would really like to" Done and Done."
Thanks for your help.

bill.

[sidecarwilliam]

I have visited the Tanin site and note that they say the problem I am having is probably in the circuit board. I have discussed this with my grandson who repairs computers and builds arcade games and he agrees that that may well be the problem. I sent him a link to the section here that talks about repairing the circuit board and he will review it to see what he wants to tackle for his grandpa .
I will post when I know or sometime around when hell freezes over. Whichever comes first.

Thanks,
bill

BTW turned the key on and the display works but clock is wrong again.

[Rambozo]

When it is intermittent it will be extremely hard to diagnose. Ride it a bunch until it dies completely, and it will be a lot easier to fix.
Next time it is dead, start testing without moving anything. You might have to attach test wires and cap them so you can test later without disturbing the dash. If it is a power loss problem it will be easy to fix. If it is on the board, it will take more skill. Looking at it under a microscope is often required.

I am tiring of chasing this problem instead of being out riding and would really like to" Done and Done."

My old boss had a great solution for these kinds of problems. "Jack up the keys and install a new bike under them."

[sidecarwilliam]

I agree with your boss but, my boss says," no way."

bill.