The Flippy uppy trunk method.

[wanna becco]

tldr The two bolts that you access through the saddlebags. Do you just loosen them? And then the trunk will flip up? or do you have to remove/then reinstall to and from the threaded portion.

detail if needed. I just had to change my tires. I did the flippity uppity method, rather than take off the saddlebags. I pulled the two bolts out from inside the saddlebags. I saw this done on you tube. The bolt goes through the rear crash bar, then rear sub frame, and then the threaded portion goes into the frame. (the other holes are just slotted. Removing this bolt was a nightmare. Lining up the three holes was a PITA and I swear too two day. 1 whole day to cuss and hate myself and not make any progress... then the next night when my friend and I figured you have to wiggle the trunk just right to make it work... it went right back together.

My question is... will the trunk flip up if you just loosen that bolt, or do you have to remove it from the threaded portion, but can leave it in the subframe and crash bar hole, and then you only have to line up One thingy when you reassemble.

Second question Can you change the tire if you only remove the left side saddlebag?

[MikeB]

Second question Can you change the tire if you only remove the left side saddlebag?

Yes you can. That is how I've done it for many years. The right saddlebag needs to come off if you need to remove the final drive. Honda recommends removing the drive shaft and lubricating the input gear to the final drive every 16,000 miles.

[Andy Cote]

This method is described in a couple posts under the How-To Articles. Those threads have some good tricks.

So yes, you can leave the bolts loose. Issue is usually that the frames have "tweaked" a little, holes have loosened up a little and overall things might not want to line back up. Having a second pair of hands helps tremendously, otherwise some line up pins, floor jacks, lights and mirrors are necessary.

I dressed up the slots in the subframe when the back was up. Filing, flattening, and flaring the slot I think helps it find its way back in place. Also, some bright pink paint (or equiv.) so you can tell what's what when peeking through the hole. I replaced the Honda bolts with socket head cap screws. Found it so much easier than fighting a regular socket, extension and bolt through the small access hole while holding two lights and a mirror. I use a normal driver to hold the bolt but also have one of the wobble tip style if necessary.

[FM-USA]

Yaaaa, did that FLIPPY twice & hope never to do it again.
It's a PITA when lowering it.

I ground 2 new bolts (a 1/2 inch longer than OEM) like the
pix below, helps but still you can't see what's going on. I missed
the safety bar on one side. Trunk system rattled on bumps. GRRR

.

[wanna becco]

Still not clear. At one point I wanted to grind my bolt down too. But the core of my question... do you have to remove the bolt that is accessed from inside the saddle bag... Do you have to remove it from the threaded portion or can you leave it threaded, but loose and the "trunk" will flip up?

[FM-USA]

IF I remember, the saddle bag frame is 'FORKED'.

Back it out until you feel that minute tap of being unthreaded, then turn it in 2 turns.
That should leave enough room for the fork to goez'inta, hopefully easily.

(pix, yup-tiz)

Since each frame is different, from racking or twisting, it's pure luck to stab that fork in the same place.
Honda should have made that bag system a separate bolt. 2 bolt holes next to each other is a mere 1.25 inch.

.

[offcenter]

I did that ONCE! Never again.
It took FOREVER to get those bolts lined up again.
It's easier to remove the saddlebags.