Brakes


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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grimreaper615
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Motorcycle: 1994 gl1500 special edition

Brakes

Post by grimreaper615 »



I have a 94 gl1500. Noticed while riding for a bit then go to use my brakes and the pedal is completely soft. Pump it about 2 times and comes right back. Brakes good and solid after been sitting or if I'm doing a lot of stop and go. But after 15 min of not using the brakes and riding... nothing. There no air in the lines. Changed the pads due to them being low and no change. What's going on?


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Re: Brakes

Post by WingAdmin »

grimreaper615 wrote: Mon Feb 26, 2024 9:54 pm I have a 94 gl1500. Noticed while riding for a bit then go to use my brakes and the pedal is completely soft. Pump it about 2 times and comes right back. Brakes good and solid after been sitting or if I'm doing a lot of stop and go. But after 15 min of not using the brakes and riding... nothing. There no air in the lines. Changed the pads due to them being low and no change. What's going on?
I had this on my GL1500. Turned out one of the caliper pins had seized, and was not allowing the caliper to properly center. When I applied brakes, the one slide would allow one end of the caliper to move, while the other did not, slightly bending the seized pin and applying the pads unevenly. After I released the brakes, the seized pin would exert force to un-bend itself, which would slowly cause the piston to retract more than it should have.

The next time I would apply brakes, because the piston was over-retracted, I would have to give it a couple pumps to get it solid again. I had to clean and lubricate the pins and replace the unevenly worn pads to fix it.

I've also seen the same thing caused by a failed outer piston dust seal that had stuck itself to the piston. When the brakes were applied, it would stretch and remain attached to the piston, rather than allowing the piston to slide through it. Once the brakes were released, it would pull the piston back into the caliper too far, causing subsequent brake applications to require a pump or two to get full strength. Once again, a caliper rebuild fixed that problem.
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grimreaper615
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Re: Brakes

Post by grimreaper615 »

Normally I would agree but I just had the caliper off and everything was moving properly. Maybe that changed? I'll check it on the centerstand again.
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Re: Brakes

Post by FM-USA »

Once I had a frozen pin like Scott's. I had to pump once quick to build pressure. Scary if one needs to panic stop.
Pulling that pin out seemed impossible, used a torch to soften the old grease. Since then I clean & inspect the pins for side scraping.

Some grease don't repel water & actually absorbs it making it stiff. I make sure to wire-brush out all the old grease.
Fresh grease moves back & forth along the pin under pressure & suction, stiff grease won't.

Another time a rubber brake line was going soft causing it to balloon between layers. Those internal leaks are difficult to find. Fluid leaked between the layers then slowly returns back to the master. Next brake pump it takes a few to build pressure. :|
Have someone pumps the brakes til hard then hold the last pump while using a flashlight to inspect for hose expansion.
If you're working alone, randomly wrap a pieces of paper around the rubber brake hoses & hold with a spot of paper glue. Wait an hour or so then pump up the brakes. Hopefully you'll find a split paper.
Ebay has used lines but since Turkey Day I noticed those prices went up A LOT. If that's the case best to do the 'May As Well Go' new hoses.
Some shops will make them in-house.

HOPE THIS HELPS FINDING THE CAUSE.

.
When I do one thing, I'll sidestep a little & learn many things.
Quintin
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Re: Brakes

Post by Quintin »

Had this once on a dirt bike. Brakes usually worked but after a timber section and then a clearing it took a couple pumps to have brakes going into the next section of timber. With constant use in the timber the disc would heat up and warp. Crossing a clearing it would cool down and push the piston back. New disc cured it.


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