Chinese alternators?

[GD2]

Pretty sure my alternator is crapping out. Tested at battery and it was like 11.4 both running and not running. I have the battery on a charger right now and will test again later.

I started looking at alternators and all I see are chinese cheapo-o's and super high dollar ones with high output which I don't need. Any suggestions for an affordable solution? Is a DIY rebuild difficult?

I know there are a million threads, and I have been reading, but I'm open for suggestions.

Thanks

[Rambozo]

Sometimes they just need a cleaning as the carbon dust can cause the brushes to get stuck.
If the brushes are worn out you can replace them and change the bearings for many more years of service.

[MikeB]

Pretty sure my alternator is crapping out. Tested at battery and it was like 11.4 both running and not running. I have the battery on a charger right now and will test again later.

I started looking at alternators and all I see are chinese cheapo-o's and super high dollar ones with high output which I don't need. Any suggestions for an affordable solution? Is a DIY rebuild difficult?

I know there are a million threads, and I have been reading, but I'm open for suggestions.

Thanks

If you do not have alternator tear down and repair experience, you might consider removing it and taking it to an alternator repair shop.

[GD2]

I do not have any experience rebuilding an alternator, but I am definitely cheap and dumb enough to attempt it.

I'll remove it and have it tested and go from there. Thank you.

There used to be a guy named Ken who supposedly was the king of GL1500 alternator rebuilds (hemi-roid@frontier.com) but I emailed and have not heard back. It's been a number of years since I saw him mentioned on any forum.

[Rambozo]

Ken was the man. But he is now taking a dirt nap

https://www.gl1800riders.com/threads/we ... an.466149/

[offcenter]

I had two of the cheap chinese alternators fail. Each had less than 8,000 miles.
In each case, the seal on the drive shaft failed allowing motor oil to force it's way into the alternator.
Alternators don't like that. Both failed and were taken to a alternator repair shop.
Both were deemed not repairable.
I then found a new old stock Honda Hitachi alternator costing both arms and one leg.
It's been in there for quite some time now.

[GD2]

So, either rebuild or Ebay it is....

[MikeB]

So, either rebuild or Ebay it is....

If it were me, this is the alternator I would be buying right now:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256348116093?i ... R9LApJvHYw
It is a high output alternator, like the one I have on my 1998 GL1500 now. It is a Comp-U-Fire. They sold new for around $400.
This seller guarantees it and the have multiple (over 4000 sales) with 99.8% satisfaction.

[GD2]

So just for sh*ts and grins, I charged the battery and started the bike. It was not charging, so I took a rubber mallet and gave the alternator a couple love taps and VOILA, it is charging at 14.07v

[MikeB]

So just for sh*ts and grins, I charged the battery and started the bike. It was not charging, so I took a rubber mallet and gave the alternator a couple love taps and VOILA, it is charging at 14.07v

Sounds like a stuck brush or a brush that is worn to the limit and is just making contact with the commutator. It will have to be taken apart. The brushes might need to be replaced or just the brush chutes cleaned out. I hate to say it but I think it will fail gain at the worst possible moment.

[GD2]

If it were me, this is the alternator I would be buying right now:...

PLUS... I snagged that alternator you pointed out. I had it on my watchlist since last night. And it said "or best offer" so I got a much lower price.

QUESTION - can I clean my alternator by spraying it with contact cleaner or is that bad?

[MikeB]

If it were me, this is the alternator I would be buying right now:...

PLUS... I snagged that alternator you pointed out. I had it on my watchlist since last night. And it said "or best offer" so I got a much lower price.

Excellent

[Rambozo]

Often all you need is to blow it out with compressed air.
Be sure to keep your old one as they are the real deal and well worth fixing.
If yours is a made in Japan, Hitachi, they are the best.

[GD2]

Often all you need is to blow it out with compressed air.
Be sure to keep your old one as they are the real deal and well worth fixing.
If yours is a made in Japan, Hitachi, they are the best.

Thanks. I will definitely keep he old one, probably rebuild it and put it on the shelf.

[GD2]

I noticed the PO had doubled up on the dog-bone fuses, so I wonder, is my current alternator a Comp-U-Fire? It sure is big. And I can't really get to the connectors on the back.

(The PO had installed an Alpine 6-CD changer and maybe had other stuff as well...?)

[Rambozo]

Double dogbones is a pretty good indication of a high output alternator.

[MikeB]

I noticed the PO had doubled up on the dog-bone fuses, so I wonder, is my current alternator a Comp-U-Fire? It sure is big. And I can't really get to the connectors on the back.

(The PO had installed an Alpine 6-CD changer and maybe had other stuff as well...?)

ALTcf.png

It certainly looks like a Comp-U-Fire to me. They are rebuild-able.

I got this info from one of the Gold Wing forums several years ago.
"Compufire has confirmed that all of the internal parts for the Delphi Alternator, CS121, are identical to the Delphi CS130. You can order a rebuild kit for the CS130, and have all of the internal repair part you need. You will, however, need the seal, Chicago Rawhide # 9878 or CR/SKF #9879 which is Viton, which Compufire installs in their new endframe, and it's available from them. Darryl at Compufire spent a lot of time on this helping me verify part numbers. The kit for the Delphi CS130 is available almost everywhere."

I have rebuilt one of my compufire alternators with parts sourced locally. The alternator I rebuilt did not need brushes even though I had close to 100,000 miles on it. The Viton seal is important though. A Buna rubber seal will not withstand the heat it has to endure on the face of the alternator.

[GD2]

It certainly looks like a Comp-U-Fire to me. They are rebuild-able.

I got this info from one of the Gold Wing forums several years ago.
"Compufire has confirmed that all of the internal parts for the Delphi Alternator, CS121, are identical to the Delphi CS130. You can order a rebuild kit for the CS130, and have all of the internal repair part you need. You will, however, need the seal, Chicago Rawhide # 9878 or CR/SKF #9879 which is Viton...

Thank you - great info!
I am still not sure why it had a hiccup. The bike has just under 74k and there is no way that they added the Compufire when it was brand new, so I am betting that it doesnt have a ton of miles on it.

In my other thread I show how bad the bike was when I bought it. It looked like it had been pulled out of a swamp. I am hoping that cleaning it and hammering it has cleared up the problems. Fingers crossed. Glad I will have a backup.

[Rednaxs60]

I would treat your 1500 like your car, would you trust the "hammer" fix, probably not. If you had to use the "hammer" fix, take the alternator off and in to an alternator repair shop. Peace of mind, don't need to get stranded somewhere, especially if the better half is with you. Just saying. Good luck.

[detdrbuzzard]

i put a DB electrical 95a alternator on my Wing years ago, it called for doubling up on the fuses. i picked up a compufire back in '14 from a friend that was parting out a Wing, i never bothered to have the stock alternator rebuilt but i still have it

[John K]

Maybe Rick's Motorsport Electrics in Hampstead NH has what you are looking for or need ??

I put a Compu-Fire unit on my Wing 14 years ago before I started replacing lights with LEDs
Probably charging way too much now
Wondering if I should get the original rebuilt and replace the Compu-Fire?

[Rednaxs60]

Have to post a thought on this alternator issue. Had a '95 CDN SE that has since gone to a new home. Researched the forums regarding issues with the 1500 and the alternator was one of them. Replaced the stock alternator with a higher amperage alternator. Never increased the electrical load, but succumbed to the need for a high output alternator. Have installed the external alt mod on my 1200, stator went south, and it is more convenient to swap out if it fails.

The issue is that all alternators have an internal RR that has a reference voltage of approximately 14.2 volts regardless of the make. This is similar to the RR reference voltage of the earlier GWs. Honda designed the electrical system with a buffer and if left stock, there should be no issue. Knowing what the additional load that you are going to add to the stock electrical system is a very good idea.

Mentioning this, cars have been operating with low amperage alternators 40-50 amps for years and car owners have not seen the need to up the alternator amperage. The 1500 GWs rival modern day cars for electrical load and should not need an alternator upgrade. The 1800 is probably more of a power pig, and have not seen posts regarding an alternator upgrade.

It was mentioned above that a high amp alternator was installed and the lights changed to LEDs, and that the alternator output may be too much. This will not be the case. The internal RR monitors the electrical system, and maintains it at the reference voltage of 14.2 VDC. If there is an additional electrical load (amps), the RR senses this as the system voltage will drop, and adjusts the power into the system to compensate for the additional load (amps), maintaining the 14.2 reference voltage. Works the other way as well.

My question to the collective is why upgrade to a high amperage alternator without doing a load analysis? The alternator will maintain the 14.2 reference voltage in the electrical system IAW with the electrical load (amps) until it fails, and everything may. If the alternator is rated at 40 to 50 amps, this should be more than sufficient.

Obtaining an inexpensive AC/DC amp clamp and you can get a basis for the amount of electrical load on the 1500 electrical system. Most add-ons come with electrical load data and this can be used to determine the final electrical load and whether you need an alternator upgrade or not. An alternator with a higher amperage rating is no guarantee of improved system performance.

Mentioned that I got caught up in this as well, but in retrospect, could have saved a few dollars. Not mentioning that an upgrade should not be done, just that spending money for the sake of a premise should to be based on data, in this case an electrical load analysis.

Just saying.

Cheers

[Rambozo]

I suspect that this was a product of its time. Back in the day many GoldWings were covered with tons of aftermarket incandescent lights as well as powerful driving lights. Add things like his and hers heated clothing and there might be a need for a larger charging system. Thanks to efficient LEDs those days are past.