Hot wire. Starting


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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Termite20@
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2024 4:26 am
Location: Ottsville Pennsylvania
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500SE

Hot wire. Starting

Post by Termite20@ »



Hello All, I have a recently purchased 94 SE. It acted rode and started fine maybe four times. Day three Of course I immediately have starting problems, fresh battery, clicking solenoids. Voltage seems to drop to around 10 maybe less when I hit start button. Using screwdriver across A solenoid just causes spark, no starter action.

I want to eliminate all accessories except essentials. Can I do a push button start? I don’t need reverse, sidestand, cruise radio etc. Not worried about it being stolen. I can track it with a tag. If eliminating things will it no longer need more the 10V to crank the starter. I just want it to start and roll.

Thanks for helping.


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Rambozo
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Re: Hot wire. Starting

Post by Rambozo »

The 1500 needs a lot more than 10 volts to start. It's not the starter but the ignition that is the weak point.
You might want to pull the plugs and make sure it is not hydro locked. 10 volts should spin the starter no problem. If it's lower than that, maybe not.
But it isn't enough to start it. A new battery will take care of that. It's usually easier to fix the stock electrics than to modify them. It was a somewhat complex bike back when it was made and many systems are tied into each other.
You might try charging the battery and see if it comes back. Once you do get it running you need to check the charging system. It sounds like it might not be charging and you just ran it on the battery until it went flat.
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Re: Hot wire. Starting

Post by WingAdmin »

What he said. There's no way a 1500 is going to start at 10 volts. The ignition system needs a lot of voltage to fire the sparks. Much below 11.2 volts and all you're doing is pumping unburned fuel through the exhaust, with no spark lighting it off.

Some 1500's will start if you crank them and THEN let go of the starter - the voltage pops up, no longer drawn down by the current demands of the starter. This fires the plugs, and the engine is (hopefully) still spinning fast enough to light off and turn over.

The usual suspect is a weak battery. You need a good, quality (preferably AGM) battery with a full state of charge to reliably start a 1500.
Termite20@
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2024 4:26 am
Location: Ottsville Pennsylvania
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500SE

Re: Hot wire. Starting

Post by Termite20@ »

It’s a fresh battery, on charger all night. Starter is not spinning. Only the solenoids are clicking.

Which relays do I start replacing?, I did not see the blue relay in your eBay store

Can you help with these two wires,

Thanks both
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Termite20@
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2024 4:26 am
Location: Ottsville Pennsylvania
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500SE

Re: Hot wire. Starting

Post by Termite20@ »

The below procedure does not energize the starter in my situation. I do have 11.6 at the posts of A and B solenoids.

There is also a click, maybe under the trunk? I can’t isolate it



When you jump the solenoid(s), all neutral safety checks are being circumnavigated. If successfully jumped, the engine will crank regardless of the transmission being in neutral or in gear, regardless of the clutch lever being in or out, regardless of the sidestand being up or down, and regardless of the reverse lever being in or out. Make sure the bike is in NEUTRAL before trying to jump your solenoid(s).
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Rambozo
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Re: Hot wire. Starting

Post by Rambozo »

You should have better than 12 volts at the input post of the A solenoid.
Did you pull the plugs and check for hydrolock as was mentioned before?
You could also just try to turn over the engine with a wrench to check for that.
If that passes, I would check for power going in and out of each solenoid. Just because they click, doesn't mean they work.
If you have battery voltage going out to the starter, and you can turn the engine by hand, your starter is bad.
If you have power going into a solenoid but not coming out, you have to find out why.

Just throwing parts at it hoping for a solution is rarely the way to go. Like my old boss used to say, jack up the keys and install a new bike under them, and the problem will be solved.
Termite20@
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2024 4:26 am
Location: Ottsville Pennsylvania
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500SE

Re: Hot wire. Starting

Post by Termite20@ »

I want to thank you for your advice you seem to be the Wingwhisperer, and I’m grateful.

I do have twelve at both in and out.
I have not tried the hyper thing you advised yet, but will.
Any advice on the disconnected white wire?
I plan on reconnecting the green wire that was corroded in the connector, could that be it?
Rolling it and popping clutch would release a hyperlock.
Termite20@
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2024 4:26 am
Location: Ottsville Pennsylvania
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500SE

Re: Hot wire. Starting

Post by Termite20@ »

I want to thank you for your advice you seem to be the Wingwhisperer, and I’m grateful.

I do have twelve at both in and out.
I have not tried the hyper thing you advised yet, but will.
Any advice on the disconnected white wire?
I plan on reconnecting the green wire that was corroded in the connector, could that be it?
Rolling it and popping clutch would release a hyperlock.
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Rambozo
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Re: Hot wire. Starting

Post by Rambozo »

Rolling and popping the clutch would tell you if something is locked up because the rear wheel would be sliding not rolling. Probably better to just put it in gear on the center stand and see if you can turn the rear wheel. Hydrolock is fluid in the cylinders. Could be gas or coolant. To release it you would have to pull the spark plugs and turn the engine over. Any fluid will come spraying out the spark plug holes, so be aware of that. It happens from carb and fuel valve problems or blown head gaskets. Not as common on the 6 cyl as on the 4 cyl but something to check before you fry the starter. If you have a DC current meter there are some tests you could do without removing the starter.


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