New battery goes dead & LCD is blank.

[Stantheman55]

So I have a 2000-1500SE which I purchased in 2017. The bike ran great for years till 2023. One day I went out to start the bike and it was dead. I tried charging the battery which helped me get the bike started and it ran fine only I noticed that the LCD screen was a blank grayish color. the bike ran well but no screen. I put the bike in the garage and two days later the battery was dead once again I decided to replace the battery. I installed the new battery went for a ride to get gas and take it for a run, still no LCD. Several day later the battery was dead once again (new battery) and yes the key was all the way off but not removed. Hmmmm!

I started thinking that the screen had gone bad and possibly some how causing the battery to go dead and decided to look at a new one. I contacted Tanin Auto, they have them for roughly a buck and a quarter. As I was reading the info under the picture of their screen it stated

Quote "If you experience your clock not keeping correct time (very fast or slow), NO information being displayed on your LCD screen, no radio information display or other information, then the LCD is not your problem. This issue is caused by a failing circuit board behind the LCD screen." un quote.

My question is now what. Does a failing circuit board explain the battery going dead by drawing a current even when the key is off. I don't know what to do next any help form the community would be a great help, thanks

Stan.
PS the bike is kept in a garage and has never been caught in the rain as long as I have owned it.

[Rambozo]

I doubt it. I do not believe the LCD unit even gets power with the key off.
First thing is to check the fuses for the dash and the memory. The memory fuse is in the relay box, not the fuse box.
Once that is confirmed all good, you will need to trace out the current draw with an ammeter. It could be a bad alternator.

[WingAdmin]

Try removing this fuse:



See if it makes any difference to your battery going dead.

This is the fuse that runs the clock and allows your radio to retain its station memory when power is off. I suspect something has gone wrong with your clock (probably) or radio (both of which drive parts of the LCD). More likely it's damage to that LCD circuit board, and it is drawing too much current.

You might want to put an ammeter across those fuse terminals after the fuse is removed to see just how much current is being drawn by that circuit.

[ct1500]

First and easiest thing I would do is check charging voltages at battery with a meter at both idle and 2k RPM. Then load test battery after a good (not maintainer) external charging.
After the load test take note of battery voltage once it stabilizes. Wait a day or two before hooking battery cables up and take another voltage reading, if it has dropped by more than two tenths of a volt the battery is likely NG. A sitting battery with no load should not quickly self discharge.

[Stantheman55]

Thanks guy's it gives me a place to start looking, ill get back with you as soon as I can with results.

[Stantheman55]

Hi Guy's I'm back with an update and a new development.

So the new development is that I can't get the bike started at all. I put the battery on a good charger I know works properly over night. Next day I tried to start the bike all switches in correct positions it cranked over quickly but not starting as it usually does. I tried several times to the point I ran the battery down. After reading some past posts on bikes not starting, i hooked up to my truck battery to give it a boost, good cranking and still nothing.

Next I pulled the wires and plugs. while still hooked up to the truck I got spark from the wires using the needle nose plyer trick as well as checking the plugs and grounding the end to check spark across the gap. Plugs are fairly new based on the very low mileage on them. I got spark but to be honest I wasn't real impressed. I have seen hotter spark on my outboard and lawn mower.

Next I put the plugs in and cranked the bike over several times and pulled the plugs to inspect. they were dry as a bone. and no smell of gas. Usually when I first start the bike I get a heavy concentration of fumes blown back into the garage while cranking but not this time.

So it looks like I have a separate issue in the fuel delivery.

Back to the electrical issue.

So I did as you suggested and pulled the fuse for dash/Mem. it was in good working order mechanically and electrically. I did not that when I had that fuse installed and the battery was fully charged I got that spark I spoke of earlier. how ever when I removed the fuse from the holder I did not get that spark at the battery when I touched the negative lead to the post.

You stated if the fuse was in good condition that I should trace out the current draw with an amp meter that it may be the alternator. I am not sure how to go about tracing it out could you give me an example of what and how to test it. moving forward from the battery to the alternator.. I do not have an amp meter but will get one, can any one recommend a good but not over the top expensive meter and who carries it.

Lastly Voltage drop at the battery was from 12.5 to 10.5 during cranking. Well that's where I am, so grateful for this forum and all the help I have received over the years.

Thank you I eagerly await what you have to say on both my dilemmas.

Stan in Orlando.