1500 rear master cylinder


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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mookie54
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Motorcycle: 1990 gold wing

1500 rear master cylinder

Post by mookie54 »



I am working on my neighbors 1990 1500 and the problem is no brake pedal (on rear brakes).
I have rebuilt master cylinder and still no resistance. I cant find any info on the pressure control valve incorporated in the rear master cylinder if this unit is bad could that give the symptons I have? I can find no evidence of leaks anywhere on the system. Any help would be appreciated.



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WingAdmin
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Re: 1500 rear master cylinder

Post by WingAdmin »

Keep in mind the 1500 has linked brakes - so the rear pedal operates the rear brake as well as one of the front brakes. You need to bleed both of them if you have got no pedal pressure. The bleeding procedure is a little complicated - have a look at the service manual for it.

G Ruehle
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Re: 1500 rear master cylinder

Post by G Ruehle »

I have the same issue on 2000 how did you resolve issue

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tmilam
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Re: 1500 rear master cylinder

Post by tmilam »

The rear is linked with the left front. You will need to bleed the LF caliper first. Once the air is out, you can bleed the rear. The best way I have found is to use a vacuum bleeder.

kawertz
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gl1500

Re: 1500 rear master cylinder

Post by kawertz »

I am having the same problem on a 1988 1500. No evidence of any leaks and lost all resistance.
I rebuilt the master cylinder couldn't get any resistance, then re-honed and re-built the master cylinder again. I used a vacuum bleeder and bled the front left and then the rear, and still have no resistance in master cylinder. Is there a control in the rear hydraulic system other than the master cylinder and the two calipers?

minycop
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Re: 1500 rear master cylinder

Post by minycop »

HELLO,THIS IS BEGINNING TO SOUND VERY SCARY, THIS WHOLE REAR MASTER CYLINDER THING, :o ,I MEAN, I HAVE A 1988 WING, AND SINCE I VE NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH IT BEFORE, IM SAD TO SEE IT ALL THORN APART :( CAN ANYONE TELL ME IF THE REBUILT KIT IS THE SAME FOR ALL 1500'S ? I HAVE NO RESISTANCE ON REAR BRAKE PEDAL SO IT ALL POINTS TO A FAULTY REAR MASTER CYLINDER. UNFORTUNATELLY IM IN CHAPALA LAKE COMMUNITY DOWN IN MEXICO, WAY DOWN :P AND WILL HAVE TO ORDER THE KIT THROUGH THE INTERNET, I NEED THIS THING TO BE A DEAD ON MATCH....YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN :D , THANK YOU. BY THE WAY,.....IT IS 85 DEGREES DOWN HERE :P , COME ON DOWN SOMETIME, GREAT RIDING WEATHER.

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Erdeniz Umman
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Re: 1500 rear master cylinder

Post by Erdeniz Umman »

minycop wrote:
Thu Nov 09, 2017 9:19 pm
HELLO,THIS IS BEGINNING TO SOUND VERY SCARY, THIS WHOLE REAR MASTER CYLINDER THING, :o ,I MEAN, I HAVE A 1988 WING, AND SINCE I VE NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH IT BEFORE, IM SAD TO SEE IT ALL THORN APART :( CAN ANYONE TELL ME IF THE REBUILT KIT IS THE SAME FOR ALL 1500'S ? I HAVE NO RESISTANCE ON REAR BRAKE PEDAL SO IT ALL POINTS TO A FAULTY REAR MASTER CYLINDER. UNFORTUNATELLY IM IN CHAPALA LAKE COMMUNITY DOWN IN MEXICO, WAY DOWN :P AND WILL HAVE TO ORDER THE KIT THROUGH THE INTERNET, I NEED THIS THING TO BE A DEAD ON MATCH....YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN :D , THANK YOU. BY THE WAY,.....IT IS 85 DEGREES DOWN HERE :P , COME ON DOWN SOMETIME, GREAT RIDING WEATHER.
I am not sure but, there may be some differences throughout the model years.

So you could check the link below to have the correct parts.
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda ... r-cylinder

minycop
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Re: 1500 rear master cylinder

Post by minycop »

Alright so I'm getting ready to look for that elusive 1988 goldwing rear master cylinder, I guess I will soon find out just how hard it is to pull out, any do's and don't 's? Any advise before I venture into this inevitable task? I appreciate before hand any hints and support. Thankyou.

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Re: 1500 rear master cylinder

Post by WingAdmin »

minycop wrote:
Fri Nov 10, 2017 7:43 pm
Alright so I'm getting ready to look for that elusive 1988 goldwing rear master cylinder, I guess I will soon find out just how hard it is to pull out, any do's and don't 's? Any advise before I venture into this inevitable task? I appreciate before hand any hints and support. Thankyou.
You're not going to be thrilled - it's one of the most difficult things to remove on the GL1500.

You need to first remove the left exhaust pipe, the mufflers, and the central exhaust collector, the right heat protector, battery, and battery box. You then remove the reservoir, and you can gain access to the master cylinder.

minycop
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Re: 1500 rear master cylinder

Post by minycop »

THANKYOU, I'LL LET YOU KNOW HOW IT WENT.....

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Erdeniz Umman
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Re: 1500 rear master cylinder

Post by Erdeniz Umman »

This video may give an idea about the parts that should be removed before the work.



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MikeB
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Re: 1500 rear master cylinder

Post by MikeB »

A new master cylinder retails for a little over $200.

You can buy a rebuild kit for a little under $30.

After replacement or rebuild and replacement, make sure you have bench bled the master cylinder before installing it.

Also, if you elect to rebuild it, make sure you clean all the ports in the master cylinder. The tiny fluid return port needs to be clear. If it has an obstruction or clog, the brakes can either drag or lock after brake application.
Step 17b and 17c of the posting here: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=57
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chnco7088
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Re: 1500 rear master cylinder

Post by chnco7088 »

Hello everyone!

Having similar brake issues. No pedal. Tried bleeding, and the down pedal trick, to no avail. Decided to rebuild the rear caliper.

After rebuilding the rear caliper, and both vacuum bleeding AND manual bleeding (hose in the fluid and pump brake pedal), I still have no pedal.

Is my next step to rebuild the rear master cylinder? If so, how easy is doing that, including removal and replacement?

Looking for ideas. Thanks.

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MikeB
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Re: 1500 rear master cylinder

Post by MikeB »

The foot brake pedal also controls the left front caliper. If you have not tended to the front left caliper, your problem may be there.
MikeB
1998 - GL1500 w/184,500 miles ~ 2017 - GL1800 w/13000 miles
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Stew
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Re: 1500 rear master cylinder

Post by Stew »

Just to throw it out there... I also had nearly zero resistance when pushing down on the foot brake and my issue turned out to be massive amounts of air in the left front brake line. Don't know where all that air came from since the bike is relatively new to me but it's been rock solid so far after bleeding.

The air was particularly tricky to get out because the rear master cylinder is very low in the bike but moving to the front caliper it loops way up and then back down to the front caliper so there is a high point where the air gets trapped and is tricky to get out.

What finally worked for me was pumping the rear pedal 10 or 15 times, holding it down with a cinder block (put rags around your bike so you don't scratch things), cracking the left front bleeder valve, etc like you normally would when bleeding brakes. I had to do this many times but eventually the air did come spitting out of there and like I said it's been great ever since.
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wingdings
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Re: 1500 rear master cylinder

Post by wingdings »

hi - saw your post there !! - I had the same trouble on my wing too - first when was the last time the brake fluid was changed on the bike ?? is the fluid murky looking ?? - it should be clear looking if not change it - if that does not work and the brake pedal is still spongy then it maybe that your master cylinder needs rebuilding and as other people have said it is cheaper to do this than try and get a new one - when I took mine apart there was a hole in gubins inside the valve bits of metal were also inside and had come away also - I ended up replacing the whole thing and adding custom made stainless steel brake lines made by wesmoto uk - the old rubber lines after all the years on the bike were also making the spongy brake feel to the rear brake pedal - you could also try this - its for the clutch but it will also work on the front brake too -

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and as stated to you in other reply's the front and the rear brakes are linked together so any air in the system will cause it to be spongy or even worse none at all !! .

other ones to look at are -

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hope this helps :D :D :D :D :D

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rmcgruder
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Re: 1500 rear master cylinder

Post by rmcgruder »

Hey Stew! Thank you!! I just purchased a 1992 GL1500A with only front brakes. After getting home I concluded that I would need to rebuild the Master Cylinder. After looking for instruction and reading the horror stories, I told my wife that we should just re-sell the bike and get some of our money back. I was reading the post and read your. I thought to myself "I hope I get lucky, and I did brakes are all ready to go. Thank you!!!!!

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CrystalPistol
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Re: 1500 rear master cylinder

Post by CrystalPistol »

When bleeding the rear brake on the 1500, you must bleed the left front too. The reason is the brak line from low mounted rear master cylinder to low fork mounted left front brake goes up high at the steering stem, which is a place air bubbles like. You can bleed the rear caliper only 15 times and never move the air up there if any is there.

I've had great results bleeding the rear caliper first, then left front caliper, then rear caliper again. Helps to have a buddy on right side sitting on the floor beside the bike watching brake fluid in reservoir and to slowly pump the pedal for you.

First, make sure level is full, lay cap on top to keep junk from falling in, then go to caliper and put hose on bleeder into jar, say "PUMP UP" at which time buddy slowly pumps three or four strokes, then buddy say's "OK - HOLDING".
Buddy holds pressure on pedal, you open bleeder and see fluid with or without air bubbles go into jar.
If buddy needs to add fluid, he says so and does it when not holding pedal down for you.
You close bleeder after this spurt, only then do you say "PUMP UP" and buddy pumps again, 3 or 4 pumps & hold. Do this 3 or 4 cycles on rear, then left front caliper, then rear again.
Buddy is monitoring level and has bottle of fresh fluid at hand. You may have to do this 2 or 3 times, just maybe?

To get to rear bleeder screw, there is a hole in saddle bag but I lay on my back under saddle bag and get to it. Front left is behind rotor cover you remove. Generally they have rubber caps on them, helps to "break loose" first to prepare, but when bleeding you shouldn't tighten really tight when closing until you're done and are putting the rubber caps back on.

I've used vacuum bleeding, but then you should put grease on the bleeder screw threads to prevent some air being sucked in past threads.
I think you should use grease on threads of speed bleeders too, but they can also have hose fall off the bleed nipple, making a mess..
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rmcgruder
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Re: 1500 rear master cylinder

Post by rmcgruder »

I'm really loving this forum.. I was a member years ago when I had another Gl1500, but purchased the bike New/Used, only had like 7k miles on it. Lost my job, went homeless and had to sale the bike. Anyway, working my way back up and now having to do my own repairs and maintance. I'll say it out-right, I NEED YOU GUYS!!!!! Thanks for all the helpfull advice!



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