anti dive replacing
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2012 7:27 am
- Location: Warwick, Rhode Island
- Motorcycle: 2001 goldwing
anti dive replacing
hi ,I have a 2001 Goldwing I going to replace the front fork springs and seals but the anti dive is no good what do I need to no about replace it can someone help
thank u
ray
thank u
ray
- Viking
- Posts: 3709
- Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2010 6:59 pm
- Location: North Bay, Ontario, Canada
- Motorcycle: 2009 GL1800 AD
1987 Harley Softail Custom
1974 Harley FLH (sold)
1965 Harley FLHE (sold)
1957 Harley Chopper (sold)
Re: anti dive replacing
Put a spacer in it to disable it, and you will be good to go. An American Nickel coin, with a 1/4 inch hole drilled through the center will work, or you can get an antidive disable spacer here:
http://www.motomfg.com/GL1800_Goldwing_ ... p/gl-1.htm
The antidive on the GL1800 front ends is problematic. It works fine when it is working perfectly, but otherwise just seizes up the left fork causing blown seals. If you can find the parts, it probably is no problem to replace, and may even be simpler to service, but I personally would not bother. I disabled mine after less than 5K miles on the bike.
http://www.motomfg.com/GL1800_Goldwing_ ... p/gl-1.htm
The antidive on the GL1800 front ends is problematic. It works fine when it is working perfectly, but otherwise just seizes up the left fork causing blown seals. If you can find the parts, it probably is no problem to replace, and may even be simpler to service, but I personally would not bother. I disabled mine after less than 5K miles on the bike.
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2012 7:27 am
- Location: Warwick, Rhode Island
- Motorcycle: 2001 goldwing
Re: anti dive replacing
thank u for the info just order it can I ask how hard to replace the spring in the forks going to progressive fork spring
ray
ray
- thrasherg
- Posts: 2123
- Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2009 11:21 am
- Location: Plano, TX
- Motorcycle: 2017 Yamaha FZ07, 2015 Yamaha Super Tenere ES, 2005 Honda Shadow 750, CRF450X, CRF230, CRF250X, XR200, CR500, Gas Gas TXT200
Re: anti dive replacing
As stated, if you fit Traxxion or Progressive fork springs, then disconnect the anti dive by either fitting a special made spacer ($5 from ebay) or by drilling a hole in the middle of a nickel coin and inserting it in the middle of the anti dive unit on the left fork leg (between the two parts that are held together by 2 small allen bolts).
I also answered your question about replacing the fork springs in your other thread, it is really easy to change the fork springs, just do one leg at a time so you don't get parts mixed up as the insides of the left fork are different to the right fork!! The hardest part is actually getting the forks out as you have to jack the bike up, remove the wheel, remove the brakes, disconnect the anti dive unit (Remove the 2 bolts, this makes installing the spacer very easy!!), etc.. I forget if it's traxxion or progressive, but one or both of them suggest dropping the forks by 10mm, to do that you need to remove the black plastic cover on the top yoke!! That can be a lot of work as you have to remove half the top fairing to get access to the top yoke!! See how adventurous you feel!!
Gary
I also answered your question about replacing the fork springs in your other thread, it is really easy to change the fork springs, just do one leg at a time so you don't get parts mixed up as the insides of the left fork are different to the right fork!! The hardest part is actually getting the forks out as you have to jack the bike up, remove the wheel, remove the brakes, disconnect the anti dive unit (Remove the 2 bolts, this makes installing the spacer very easy!!), etc.. I forget if it's traxxion or progressive, but one or both of them suggest dropping the forks by 10mm, to do that you need to remove the black plastic cover on the top yoke!! That can be a lot of work as you have to remove half the top fairing to get access to the top yoke!! See how adventurous you feel!!
Gary
- Viking
- Posts: 3709
- Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2010 6:59 pm
- Location: North Bay, Ontario, Canada
- Motorcycle: 2009 GL1800 AD
1987 Harley Softail Custom
1974 Harley FLH (sold)
1965 Harley FLHE (sold)
1957 Harley Chopper (sold)
Re: anti dive replacing
I dunno if all Gary said above is necessary. I replaced my stock springs with Progressives and all I did was clear the tupperware to expose the top bolts, turn the handlebars and remove the left one and replace the spring, then turn the handlebars the other direction and loosen the top nut on the right one, stick a spanner in to hold the nut that is inside it and finish removing the top. Replaced that spring and reversed the procedure to put the top caps back on. Piece of cake if done right. Now, you did not mention if you wished to change the fork oil or not. If so, my procedure needs to be disregarded and you have to do what Gary said, in order to get the oil out. If this is what you decide to do, might I suggest going to the Progressive MONOSHOCKS instead of just changing the springs. Either way, springs or monoshocks, they do come with instructions.
- thrasherg
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- Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2009 11:21 am
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- Motorcycle: 2017 Yamaha FZ07, 2015 Yamaha Super Tenere ES, 2005 Honda Shadow 750, CRF450X, CRF230, CRF250X, XR200, CR500, Gas Gas TXT200
Re: anti dive replacing
The viking makes a very good point!! I always change my fork oil when I open my forks (Just habit) but you could change the springs whilst keeping them on the bike, but I suspect the left fork would be very awkward because of the damper rod connected to the bottom of the end cap!! If you are fitting new springs, it seems a waste to me to not change the oil at the same time and get the best benefit possible!!
Also depending on the mileage of your bike, traxxion and progressive both recommend opening the forks and checking the bushes inside the forks as they do wear and cause some strange handling characteristics, but if you do that you will also need new fork seals and oil!! and possibly bushes if you find yours are worn!!
Gary

Gary
Re: anti dive replacing
Disabled my this year after fork re build what a differents.Sally
- tfdeputydawg
- Posts: 1140
- Joined: Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:59 am
- Location: Indianapolis, In.
- Motorcycle: 06 Wing III/2010 Hannigan
Re: anti dive replacing
Shim works only if the valve itself is not stuck!!!
I would also take a close look at the Mono-tubes over the springs!
I would also do the "complete" job of rebuilding the forks, rather than just "dropping" in springs!
I would also take a close look at the Mono-tubes over the springs!
I would also do the "complete" job of rebuilding the forks, rather than just "dropping" in springs!
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- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sat Oct 23, 2010 5:46 pm
- Location: Mt. Prospect IL
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100A Aspencade, 1979 GL1000 GW
Re: anti dive replacing
Hello:
Replaced the seals on both forks last year after running over train tracks, found the left fork leaking with black oil and the right was fine with the original red oil Cleaned both and installed them. Then ran over the same tracks and the left one blew again with black oil. I understand the the left fork is the true shock absorber but why am I keep blowing the seal with black, contaminated fork oil. Saw a shim kit to install on the anti-dive fixture on the bottom and as pointed out above, it appears to be a good fix!
Also, since the oil is black, seal integrity has been previously compromised. I am a rain rider which could have some affect but this bike didn't have that many miles when it blew. Easy to repair though! Make it the winters project.
By the way, the tracks have been repaired and no more bone jarring bounce anymore.
Replaced the seals on both forks last year after running over train tracks, found the left fork leaking with black oil and the right was fine with the original red oil Cleaned both and installed them. Then ran over the same tracks and the left one blew again with black oil. I understand the the left fork is the true shock absorber but why am I keep blowing the seal with black, contaminated fork oil. Saw a shim kit to install on the anti-dive fixture on the bottom and as pointed out above, it appears to be a good fix!
Also, since the oil is black, seal integrity has been previously compromised. I am a rain rider which could have some affect but this bike didn't have that many miles when it blew. Easy to repair though! Make it the winters project.
By the way, the tracks have been repaired and no more bone jarring bounce anymore.
- canuck623
- Posts: 113
- Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2013 2:50 pm
- Location: Glendale, Arizona
- Motorcycle: 2008 GL 1800 Level 3
Re: anti dive replacing
Glad the tracks are fixed. The right fork is the shock absorber, the left fork is the anti dive fork. If you are blowing out the seal in the left fork just going over a bump your anti dive valve must be closed and all the pressure is pushing out the top of the fork. The other reason would be too much oil in it. Replace your springs with the progressive mono tube and no more seal problems as you only put half or slightly less oil in and it is now just used for lube and cooling and the modified anti dive function. I have done many forks and have found that progressive recommends a little too much oil. I cut it back by about an ounce per side and there is no more pushing of oil out even in the most aggressive riding.ejvd wrote:Hello:
Replaced the seals on both forks last year after running over train tracks, found the left fork leaking with black oil and the right was fine with the original red oil Cleaned both and installed them. Then ran over the same tracks and the left one blew again with black oil. I understand the the left fork is the true shock absorber but why am I keep blowing the seal with black, contaminated fork oil. Saw a shim kit to install on the anti-dive fixture on the bottom and as pointed out above, it appears to be a good fix!
Also, since the oil is black, seal integrity has been previously compromised. I am a rain rider which could have some affect but this bike didn't have that many miles when it blew. Easy to repair though! Make it the winters project.
By the way, the tracks have been repaired and no more bone jarring bounce anymore.
2008 GL1800
1990 GL1500
1986 GL1200
1983 GL1100
1982 CBX 1000
1972 CB750
1966 305 Dream
1990 GL1500
1986 GL1200
1983 GL1100
1982 CBX 1000
1972 CB750
1966 305 Dream