Emergency flasher button stuck on

[Ladyrider08]

My emergency flasher button is stuck on. How do I get to it to fix it?

[ct1500]

Very common complaint especially in the colder weather. Best thing to do is shoot it with electrical contact cleaner via the straw in can nozzle held by the button and at the same time working the button, careful on the over spray.

If in a pinch can use WD40, silicone spray even lok-ease graphite to get them to turn off.

[WingAdmin]

Very common complaint especially in the colder weather. Best thing to do is shoot it with electrical contact cleaner via the straw in can nozzle held by the button and at the same time working the button, careful on the over spray.

If in a pinch can use WD40, silicone spray even lok-ease graphite to get them to turn off.

No, not graphite! It's conductive, and will short circuit the switch innards!

[artgrantz]

There is a little ridge on the bottom edge of the button. You can hook it with a fingernail to help pull it out after you spray it.

[Ladyrider08]

Thanks so much for the ideas. I will certainly try it and hope it is this easy!!

[ct1500]

Very common complaint especially in the colder weather. Best thing to do is shoot it with electrical contact cleaner via the straw in can nozzle held by the button and at the same time working the button, careful on the over spray.

If in a pinch can use WD40, silicone spray even lok-ease graphite to get them to turn off.

No, not graphite! It's conductive, and will short circuit the switch innards!

OK boss here we go

Would I hold a hunk of graphite between 2 1000V leads, no, same as I would not hold a damp piece of wood between the 2 either. With the minimal amount of actual graphite ingredient along with all the other inert compounds suspended in an aerosol of LockEase used in a 12V non electronic component mechanical switch, it is probably a step up in conductivity from seawater after application.

I'll bet ya a steak dinner if I were to take one of my car batteries hooked up my volt meter set to read in hundreds and spray a line of lockease between the 2 posts no change would be noticed.

If I was a u tuber I'd film it, all in fun.

My switches have worked flawlessly since spraying 2 years ago.

[jumbolieya]

I had the same issue and tried spraying contact cleaner, but it seems the buttons are very well protected and the oil does not get to where it needs to go to eliminate the problem.

It is my belief, that over time, the plastic used to create the parts becomes dry and subsequently sticks to other plastic parts in the assembly.

To resolve the issue, I had to remove the multi-switch cover and disassemble the switch assembly to get at the actual button and its subordinate parts. I then cleaned the contact surfaces and lubricated all surfaces with a high-grade electronics cleaner that included dielectric grease.

It has been three years, with the bike store outside, under a cover, and I have had no issue.

[Ladyrider08]

Jumbolieya, How do I remove the multi switch cover if spraying from the outside doesn't work?

[PastoT]

Remove the left side fairing trim that runs downward adjaceent your left fairing pocket... take your time it can be fragile, but it will simply unsnap. This will reveal 4 aluminum allen bolts, one of which retains the bracket for the left side of the switch panel. Once that screw is removed there is a snap finger that extends into the fairing, again carefully pull out on the outter edge and the switch panel will ease out of its position hinging on two tabs that are under the fairing on the gas tank side. BTW I uses CRC electronics cleaner from an auto parts shop without any issue. IF the switch is ultimately stuck and can't be repaired, I'm pretty sure its Electronic Connections that sells a replacement reasonably priced.

[Red Ron]

Besides saturating with silicone spray; pushing on the bottom right part of the button seemed to work for me.

[cpwomer]

They all sound like good ideas but I use PB Blaster...That stuff eats stuff that makes that happen...Always works for me

[winger05]

IMO, there is no need to dis-assemble the switch and taking the chance of breaking it. You can resolve this issue by simply doing the following:

Remove the side trim strip on the shelter (fairing)

Remove the (1) hex screw that secures the black switch panel to the shelter

Carefully pull the entire switch panel out of the shelter opening

On the backside of the switch panel, remove the inspection/dust cover that covers the back of the flasher switch

Remove the (2) small phillips screws that attaches the flasher switch in the panel

Carefully pull the flasher switch assembly away from the switch panel

Rotate the switch assembly until you see 2 very tiny holes in the switch body

Spray contact cleaner (radio shack) into the 2 tiny holes using the straw attachment on the cleaner nozzle and work the switch off and on a few times

Repeat with contact cleaner spray

Spray a silicon lubricant (with straw attachment) into the 2 tiny holes plus the switch "shaft" that moves in and out of the switch body. Again, work the switch in and out a few times



The switch should now be fully functional and you can now re-install the switch by going in the reverse order of the dis-assembly. Hope this helps anyone experiencing this problem. It has ALWAYS worked for me.

Read more: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=18298#ixzz2ovZagwBO

[Gummy]

I have had the same issue when the bike was relatively new. I accidently pushed the button in and "cudnt" get the damn thing out. After painstakingly getting the button out, I applied a thin line of "superglue" to the outer edge of the button and now the focker doesn't accidently go in so - no more stuck in button. Oh, the emergency bit? I don't create emergencies/
Hope all of you had a great Christmas and and even greater New Year with lots of good rides.
Cheers Gummy

[poolshark375]

I was informed that to fix this problem that you had to replace the entire switch assy. I tried the WD-40 trick and have not had any other issues with the switch. Cost of the switch assy was over 200.00