Wheel removal

Information and questions on GL1800 Goldwings (2001-2017)
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Posts: 4
Joined: Thu May 13, 2010 8:21 am
Location: sandy ut
Motorcycle: 2008 gl1800

Wheel removal

Post by ljd »

What's the procedure to remove the front and rear wheels to have new tires mounted on a 2008 GL 1800?
Thanks for any help

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Re: Wheel removal

Post by thrasherg »

I put mine on it's center stand, and remove the rear wheel, then I put a trolley jack under the engine and lift the front of the engine up until the front wheel is just off the floor (the bike is balancing on the center stand and engine jack) and then remove the front wheel. The bike seems stable enough to be left for a few hours as long as nobody tries to touch/move it, then reinstall the front wheel, lower the jack and then install the rear wheel. I would recomend loosening all the front wheel axle bolts before you start lifting with the jack..

Hope the above makes sense.

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Gl 1800 2003

Re: Wheel removal

Post by FlyBoy2121 »

I thrasherg

Here is a very good method to follow to remove the front wheel.
Double click on the address and follow the advice.
Before you have to remove front fender is easy just 8 screws


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Motorcycle: 2003 GL1800 Goldwing

Re: Wheel removal

Post by Tootsieroll*Douglas »

ljd wrote:What's the procedure to remove the front and rear wheels to have new tires mounted on a 2008 GL 1800?
Thanks for any help
ljd wrote:What's the procedure to remove the front and rear wheels to have new tires mounted on a 2008 GL 1800?
Thanks for any help
Hello ljd,
I recently both front and rear wheels on my 2003 GL1800. I watched several Youtbube videos and most showed laying the bike down on it's right side to accomplish getting to the bottom of the bike and rear wheel. I purchased this bike about three weeks ago and it needed new tires. The friend I bought the bike from evidently never read the owner's manual because there were many features about the bike that he was unaware. I did the "unmanly" thing and read the entire manual! There is a section about removing the rear wheel and front wheel. I followed the simple dirctions and schematics in the owners manual and couldn't believe how easy it was to remove the rear wheel, without knocking the bike over onto it's side. In a nutshell, all you have to do is

1) Put the bike on it's center stand.
2) Remove the license plate.
3) Remove the five 5MM hex head screws that secure the back panel and gently pry the panel loose as it is also held in place with some studs/grommets.These seem to keep it in place and help lining up the screws and holes.
4) Use a 12MM socket or wrench to remove the metal support bar.
5) a 1/2' 19MM? deep socket (I believe the wheel lug nuts are 19MM), a short extension for your ratchet and a breaker bar and loosen and remove the five lug nuts. Put the bike in gear so the wheel doesn't turn.
6) Once the lug nuts are loose wiggle the wheel off the wheel studs and remove to the rear. Easy as pie.
7) Be sure to use a good torque wrench when re-installing. Book specs call for 80lbs of torque for the lug nuts.

I really can't understand why anyone would want to lay their bike on it's side to do this job. Too easy.

I found that removing the front wheel is much more difficult as both calipers must be removed. I watched a couple of Youtube videos that helped me with the this process and supplemented the instructions written in the owners manual.

Be sure to secure the bike well. I used a tie-strap to keep the center stand from moving by attaching to the forward crash bar and attaching to the center stand. I took both wheels off, with the engine supported with a jack.

Good luck and safe riding.

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Re: Wheel removal

Post by collinsa »

"a 1/2' 19MM? deep socket (I believe the wheel lug nuts are 19MM), a short extension for your ratchet and a breaker bar and loosen and remove the five lug nuts. Put the bike in gear so the wheel doesn't turn."

Not hard to remove the front or rear wheels but may I give a word of caution - loosen (and retighten) the rear wheel nuts while the bike is on the ground.
Using the gear box to stop the rear wheel turning places unnecessary strain on the drive train

My bike is fitted with a Dauntless vertical tow hitch and the rear wheel can still be removed out the back as described above

I do all my own bike work because local Honda Dealers now charge $AU150 per hour so years ago I purchased a hydraulic bench with removable panel - the rear wheel drops straight down and this avoids the need to remove the number plate panel.

While you have the front or rear wheel off it is always a good idea to check brakes pads
I give them a spray with brake cleaner to remove dirt and brake dust

I always give the wheel rims a thorough clean before I have a new tyre fitted as this ensures balancing is correct

I always carry a socket, extension bar and socket handle just in case the wheel has to come off to replace a damaged tire when I am in a remote area. It is easier to transport a wheel.
Touch wood - never had to use it yet.

Ride Safe
Red Ron
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Re: Wheel removal

Post by Red Ron »

LJD: You appear to have an '08. I have a '13 but used to have an '08. On my '08 I couldn't remove the back wheel from the center stand. When you remove the back fender to roll the wheel out the radio's amp is for some reason located there and in the way. It is a pain to move the amp out of the way. I think about 05' they started locating the amp there. I had to put the bike on a motorcycle jack or lay it over on its side which is actually the easiest way. While on its right side you have to deploy the center stand which makes contact with the ground and lifts the wheel off the ground so you can slide it out.
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Motorcycle: 2002 GL1800 (128k)

Re: Wheel removal

Post by PastoT »

If you're removing front and rear tires for service I use this method in the dealership lot and it worked great for me and caught so me amazing looks as well. First you will need various sockets and wrench, allan wrenches for fender removal and torque wrench for a re-assembly. You also want to have the torque values on hand for the lug nuts, axle nut, pinch bolts and brake caliper bolts. You also need medium Loctite, a ratcheting tie down strap and four 12 inch pieces from a 2x4. First park side stand on level ground, reduce the rear preload to 0, and put the bike in gear and shut her off. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts just enough to allow removing them entirely in a few minutes (on the ground there is enough friction to keep the tire from rotating). Place the bike on the center stand and strap the stand forward to a front crash bar, so it cannot collapse. Stack the 2x4s up and place them aside the engine. Remove the front fender and caliper covers, then remove the left brake caliper mount bolts (support it to reduce stress on the brake line). Remove the front axle bolt and loosen the 4 axle pinch bolts. Lift the front of the bike up and place the 2x4s under the engine block to support the front tire in the air. Pull the front axle and carefully wiggle the tire and brake rotors loose and out of the forks. Take care not to lay the front tire down on the rotors, I just lay it in the grass or prop it upright against a pole or wall. Now you can take the 2x4s out and rest the forks atop one 2x4 as the bike kneels forward. This position allows one to easily remove the rear lug nuts and extract the rear tire. This works well for me without removing the rear center finder or my trailer hitch. Once the tires are finished just revers the process, torqueing the nuts / bolts and securing the caliper mount bolts with Loctite.

I recently constructed two parking crutches to secure the bike in windy areas while using the side stand. Both easily fit in a saddle bag. They are literally the extending portions from a set of strong metal crutches (the type one uses with broken legs and such) to which I bolted a steel straps bent into a "U" shape to affix to the crash bars. One will prevent the bike from blowing over to the right and away from the side stand, and the two of them easily hold up the front of my 1800. With these crutches I won't need the 2x4s.

Tom, in Mountain Home, Idaho
2002 GL1800 (Illusion Red) Non-ABS, 128k miles
Retired Air Force

"Audentes Fortuna Juvat"
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