tires of different brands

[christoolman]

just got my 2005 bike with 29000 mi on it rear tire is dunlop front is bridgestone Tire wear is about the the same Should i assume my cornering is compromised? I have trouble holding a line on a turn on grooved concrete at highway speeds this is my first bike in 40 years Chris

[Big Blue UK]

So you have not rode for 40 years, you buy a GL1800, and have trouble holding bends at highway speeds on "grooved concrete". Does not sound like the tyres to me, if they are down to their legal limit replace them. I have been riding GoldWings for more than 35 years, and "Taking bends at highway speeds on grooved concrete" (whatever that means) sounds scary to me. Rear Dunlop and front Bridgestone has nothing to do with it if they are in good condition.

Your profile = 1996 GL1500?
You look good for your age, typo somewhere?

[tfdeputydawg]

Should not cause cornering concerns. When I was 2 wheeled, I ran 36#'s frt and 41#'s rear.
Also, IMHO, your bike generally goes where you look! Look through the turn and you may find you hold your line better.

[christoolman]

well Mr UK over here they cut grooves in the radius of the highway to relieve rain there'r about a pencil deep and wide, every inch or less there not necessary parallel around the entire bend I have no issues where its black top As soon as i reach a section with black top the bike stops squirming and pulling me out of my groove or line

[dtrider]

I've run into the grooved roads here too, and yes they can make the bike squirrelly. The bike tends to want to follow the grooves when you are trying to go off groove. Probably not an issue with the tires. Just be prepared for it and as deputydawg mentions, remember to look through the turn.

[CMReynolds1]

The principle you describe is called Target Fixation. Many articles have been written on it over the years. As was mentioned, look at where you want to go and you will go there. If you look at a spot or something in the road and then think you will make a move to avoid it, you most likely won't, you will hit it! This is taught in flight school at all of the Armed Forces that have airborne capabilities. I have a Stone in front and a Dunlop in back from the PO, no issues. When the time comes to replace, they both will be replaced with the same brand.
Take care and be careful while you get your 'sea legs' back for riding!

[HawkeyeGL1200]

I have found that tires that have a groove that runs directly in the center of the circumference of the tire, absolutely suck when riding over grooved pavement or on deck grating on bridges. It is for that reason that I will not use a tire of that design unless there is no other option. Having run "mismatched" tires (different brands front and rear) on many occasions, it has been my experience that there is little effect on how the bike handles (of course, in my opinion) as long as the tires are the correct size for the motorcycle, and of sufficient condition so as not to be worn past the wear bars, and adequately inflated for the weight of the motorcycle, rider(s) and any additional weight carried.

Not being familiar with the tires on your motorcycle, specifically, I would suggest that if the tires are close to needing replacement, that you find the tire you like best and purchase a set that match. New tires always ride better (to me) than tires that are half worn out. When I bought my 1200, I started looking into tires for the time when my set would wear out. Not being familiar with the class of tire required on these heavier than I was used to riding motorcycles, I went ahead and bought a "set" of tires expecting to have to replace mine within 5,000 miles or so. Much to my surprise, I was able to run the rear tire for close to 17,000 miles (Dunlop Elite 3). The front tire that came on the bike was a Continental (something or other). It was badly cupped when I got the bike and as a stop-gap measure, I installed a Shinko Tourmaster 230 tire. The bike never felt right to me even after replacing the front. Last week, I put a new Kenda Kruz 673 on the back wheel, and this weekend, I plan to install it's mate on the front. The difference in handling between the recently worn out E3 and the Kenda tire is night and day. That doesn't mean the E3 is a bad tire, it was just worn badly by the time I got around to replacing it.

Knowing what I know now, I'm not sure I'd have bought the Kenda tires... not that there's anything wrong with them, but I think I would have been better off buying a set of Bridgestone S11 Spitfires. I've never run them, but everything I've read and heard about them appeals to me. I would run E3's again in a heartbeat, if it weren't for that aggravating noise they make when you corner at speed. They do not grab rain grooves, nor do they make the tail end of the bike wander over deck grating as many other tires do.. and I've never, EVER, managed to get 17,000 miles out of a rear motorcycle tire in my life.

I just think the grooves in the tires have more to do with the way they track on rain grooves than whether the front and rear tire are the same make and model tires. With just 200 miles give or take on that Kenda tire, I'm liking how it feels under me. I'll make up my mind if I want to keep running them when the back tire wears out..