Gl1800 pogo effect after mono-tube install

[peppilepew]

I went ahead and installed mono-tubes in my 2012. With the tubes a set of all-balls head bearings and a fork brace was installed. The bike handled wonderfully in turns and tracked straight as an arrow. However; there seems to be no dampening. The bike pogos on light imperfections in the road. I did not install the pre-load shims. 10w oil filled exactly to specs. I weigh 225. Anyone else have this problem and how did you solve it?

[Viking]

Twas me, I would get a call in to Progressive. They can probably help you out with this.

[peppilepew]

Twas me, I would get a call in to Progressive. They can probably help you out with this.

I have. Their answer was I should have installed the added pre-load shim. Not buying it. I think it would be worse. Removed fork brace this morning. I can hear the forks binding.

[WingAdmin]

Did you have the axle and pinch bolts loose when you installed the fork brace? If so, did you bounce the front end up and down before tightening the axle and pinch bolts?

[peppilepew]

Did you have the axle and pinch bolts loose when you installed the fork brace? If so, did you bounce the front end up and down before tightening the axle and pinch bolts?

Hi Scott,

As a matter of fact I could not. When I was finished the axle holes would not line up. Progressive told me it was normal to push or pull one side down to attain alignment. I moved the left tube up for axle alignment and then tightened the brace. I then tightened the cinch bolts. The axle slid in and out effortlessly. I have to call them soon.

[charliektm400exc]

I don't believe the 1800 needs a fork brace. But what it does need badly is a much stronger lower triple tree.

I fitted one and it changed the handling out of sight. Search on other 1800 forums for buckskin. He makes a really nice looking one.

Sorry can't help on the pogoing.

Charlie

[peppilepew]

I was reminded that it is important to leave everything loose and bounce the front end. It solved 75% of the bounce. I reinstalled the brace and found that it once again got worse. Removed it. Ordered a Kury brace that is more adjustable. Thanks folks.

thanks Scott.

[peppilepew]

I removed the PMT inserts. I hear good things about PMTs. They didn't work for me. I had a shop in Nashua, NH prep the 20k mile forks and install Traxxion inserts. I also went to a three piece fork brace. I made one small adjustment last night and was delighted. It is truly like a new bike. All the Honda suspension garbage is gone. The bike no longer wobbles, wanders, follows ruts, bottoms on moderate bumps or wallows on stressful high speed turns. This bike tracks through turns like never before. (IMHO) I am expecting another improvement when the stones are on there once again. Dunlops seem to be lacking some of the features of the Stones. Quiet and sticky in turns the Stones are. The Dunlops, not, not, not! Mother Honda you should be ashamed of yourself for sending your flagship out with the crappy suspensions. I hope Honda's newly designed front suspension corrects the issues.

[wingngold]

peppilepew!!
when you install the monotubes on the front of a gl 1800 you also should install
the heavy duty rear coil spring on rear shock made by progressive, with the monotubes
and coil spring they work together, this combination will fix the pogo effect.
DAVE

[peppilepew]

Before we mislead anyone here it is important pogo effect be explained. Pogo is caused by weak dampening. Not by an imbalanced front to rear suspension. Like I said, I hear good things about PMTs. I didn't like them.

[crock4]

Did you have the axle and pinch bolts loose when you installed the fork brace? If so, did you bounce the front end up and down before tightening the axle and pinch bolts?

I didn't install a fork brace, but did install progressive springs, fresh fork oil, and new brake pads. Should I still leave the axle, and pinch bolts loose,and bounce the front end before tightening?
The manual says mount wheel, torque axle bolt to 43lb, mount right caliper, torque to 23lb, install left caliper, pivot, joint bolts, torque. Bounce front end, and torque left pinch bolts.
Here is where I am getting confused. Do I now loosen the right pinch bolts, and axle bolt before bouncing, and retightening?

[peppilepew]

Always leave the bolts loose and bounce the front end. This allows the forks to find a neutral spacing, thus removing any extra stiction. Tighten the bolts to specs afterwards. Let us know how you like them.

[crock4]

Always leave the bolts loose and bounce the front end. This allows the forks to find a neutral spacing, thus removing any extra stiction. Tighten the bolts to specs afterwards. Let us know how you like them.

The axle bolt too, or just the pinch bolts?

[peppilepew]

Tighten the axle bolt and cinch bolts on the right side. Axle bolt first. Leave the left cinch bolts loose and bounce the front end. Sorry, I could have been clearer in the beginning.

[crock4]

Tighten the axle bolt and cinch bolts on the right side. Axle bolt first. Leave the left cinch bolts loose and bounce the front end. Sorry, I could have been clearer in the beginning.

Thanks for the help. I'll let you know how it works out. I may have to do it over though I set the oil level at 5", and progressive suggests 5.5". If it rides too stiff I'll lower the level. Also front brakes, change fluid, brakes, and clutch.

[crock4]

Sorry for taking so long, but I work slow. Got the springs changed, brakes done, fluids changed. Went for shakedown today. Ride is about 80% better on front. No bottoming even on really bad pothole. No front end wobble letting go of bars, so thanks for the help on procedure for tightening up front end properly. I'm still going to take about 1/2" more oil out of forks though I think maybe give it a little softer feel. I don't do any aggressive riding so don't need it quite as stiff.
Thanks again for all the advice, and help. This is the best forum around.
Bob