Oscillating RPM's At Idle

[williamson_l]

When I bought my 1800 new the dealer told me that the oscillating idle was normal. So I excepted that and carried on. I have since put on a new exhaust and a K&N air filter. With increase in air flow I wanted to make sure the air/fuel mixture didn't lean out so I have also installed a Power Commander V.

Since the mapping of the fuel system on the DynaJet, it enriched the ratio from 13.5 to 13 air/fuel. I never thought a GoldWing could be any smother running than it already was but I was wrong. As smooth as glass now. And guess what, NO RPM OSCILLATING at idle now. Go figure.

So just in case the idling rpm bothers you, there is a solution. Just sayin'.

[joeincalif]

I think your dealer was just trying to get out of locating a problem he had no idea how to fix. An ECM reset might have helped, but it is not normal to oscillate when idling. My 02 and 08 and all 3 of 1500 were smooth as glass

[charliektm400exc]

Well my 2009 oscillates, or hunts as I would describe it. Annoys me a lot, but don think I want to install a power commander just to fix that.

Any other solutions known?

[Steve F]

Did I see that right????? POWER COMMANDER V for the Goldwing.......$600 !!!??? Yikes.

[Viking]

Somewhere, I read that the oscillation (on bikes that have some) is caused by the fuel mapping and there is a fix. I will attempt to locate this info and get back here. A Commander V should not be necessary. It has something to do with bypassing or rerouting some of the lines to the Map Sensor.

Note: Revzilla has a fuel controller for less money than that Power Commander here:

http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/bazz ... gl1800-f6b

2nd NOTE:

Found it. It was not as I thought it was tho. It is a fix for clunky shifting, but incidentally takes care of the idle speed rpm fluctuation according to what I read into it. Here it is:

So how do we fix this? Pull out your wallet or credit card, go down to Radio Shack and buy a 2200 ohm resister ( 1/4 watt is fine)
Pull the top shelter and locate the air temp sensor which is plugged into the air box. It is located just forward of the fuel cap.
Strip the wires and place the resister in parallel with the sensor. Solder and tape it up.

What this does is fool the computer into thinking the incoming air is hotter than it really is so the ECU will remap a leaner mix. The low end stumble is now gone and that occasional galloping idle will also disappear.

One thing you will want to do is unplug the ECU fuse and turn the ignition on. You can immediately replace the fuse and go for a test ride. The ECU will recalibrate and the change should take place quickly. No need to let it idle until warm as the ECU is designed to remap under normal conditions.

This fix only affects the low speed mapping so no improvements or changes in fuel economy will be realized. I did the fix last year and for 9000 miles I never experienced any idle surging (gallop) nor did I ever experience the jerky shifting.
It's a less than a dollar fix that really works.
This exact alteration is used by car buffs to increase low end horsepower, the difference being they put the resister in series to richen the mix and add a bit more pull off idle. So it's nothing new just reapplied here.

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