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I want to install an amp on my 2008 GL1800 to push the Polk speakers I installed over the winter, but don't have any idea of what front & rear speaker wires I need to access to hook up to the amp. Anybody know about how I should do this?

I installed Polk speakers last year, and have just finished installing a second car size battery, Rockford Fosgate amp (that I highly recommend), 2 farrad cap, a 8" downward firing subwoofer in the top box, low pass filters to all speakers, two music activated RGB controllers, and 13 pin euro towing electrics. You can do this without a wiring diagram, but if you are going to install a amp, you should do it right and install decent speaker wire.
There are several connection places, and methods this is how I did it.

A 4ch amplifier with with post amp inputs from the audio unit, and bridgeable rear output is best, should you decide to do as I have with my top box in future. All 4 speakers can be powered from the front output, the rear output can be bridged for the subwoofer.


Once you have the radio and dash cover, and seat removed.

Unplug the front speakers, and connect speaker cable to these wires, note the polarity. (use spade connectors or cut spades off and solder as I did)

Run the wires you have just connected to the front original speaker wires to the amp position, and label each cable (this will be your front amp input)

Using spade connectors, connect speaker cable to the front speakers, and run them to the amp position and label each cable (these will be your front amp output)

Remove the rear speaker covers and note the wire colour code to each rear speaker.

Pull the original speaker wire from the pods and from around the top box hinges, and re route them to the amp position(mine reached the amp ok) extend them if needed but ensure you label them.

Run speaker cable from the rear speakers to the amp position, the same as you did with the front speakers.

At the amp position you will have FL input, FR input FL output, FR output, RL input, RR input RL output, RR output.

Easy as pie, and the best way.

The Rockford Fosgate amp I have is the 4ch 250W, perfect for quad Polk's, and is actually certified at 330W. The sub is a 600W Hertz fitted into the WASTE OF SPACE cd changer void, supported by a 2 farrad Bass Face cap, still have some cable tidying to do.

I assume you know all about powering the amp, cable length etc.

I recommend a good terminal crimp tool for attaching insulated spade connectors, or a dab of solder on bare spades and slide a insulating cover over them.

I fitted additional low pass filters to each speaker to clip them, mainly because I have the sub. But you can try it and set the amp to 'All Pass'

Soon I will add a port to the top box as it rattles a bit, and I fear it may blow the lid off LOL

Go on fit a subwoofer in your top box and be prepared to have your mind blown.

My speaker wire choice was 98 Strand 6A twin 0.75MM OFC, no smaller.
10AWG power cable will do for the Wing, or use 8AWG if you wish.
0.5mm or 0.75mm for the remote on.

Install amp in left pannier to keep power cables as short as possible
Bolt both power cables to the battery + and - terminals.
Connect a inline fuse = to the fuse/s on the amp as close to the battery + as possible.

Run the remote 'power on' to the amp from the aux or ign circuit via a switch of your choice. Or from the Wings radio unit 12v supply, so when turned on the radio unit will power up the amp, a relay is not needed, but if a standalone switch is chosen, a 5 amp fuse can be installed.

What sound source are you using CD audio, CD/ipod mp3.

If you are using MP3, try lossless and ACC MP3 tracks, simple to convert, worth playing with and there is a difference in the sound.

CD audio is superior, sad that the majority of Honda CD changers are rubbish. I have 3 with mech errors.