Emergency flasher swirch

[rollsroyce1934]

I have a 2006 Goldwing Comfort/Audio/Nav model. The switch for the emergency flashers crapped out and I need to replace it. Buying the entire control unit is not really an option at this time. I replaced the switch for the driving lights and have an extra switch. Is there a way to adapt the driving light switch to work with the flashers? I found a site where a relay and after market switch from Radio Shack is used but the relay is pretty much unavailable. I need help. I am trying to get ready for a cross country trip from California to Michigan in a couple of months

[MikeB]

Disassembly and repair of the switch would probably be your best and cheapest avenue. You could also try to find a used panel with a switch in it on Ebay or through a salvage yard. They are on Ebay starting at $120. Enter part number 35800-MCA-A61 in the search window. By the way, a new panel is $132.36 and if your order is $149 or more, the shipping is free through Partzilla.

Or, you can try this option : http://www.rattlebars.com/chetswing/anytime4ways.html

Or, you can leave it alone. I can honestly say that in the 16 years that I have been riding Goldwings, I have only used that four way once and that was in a parade.

[joeincalif]

Do you use the 4 way flashers? I don't think it's a big deal not to have them. I don't know of 1 time in 30 + years of riding when I used mine.

[rollsroyce1934]

The switch is completely wasted. The spring broke and stuck the flashers on. I do use the flashers living here in California. I do my riding from Sac to Palm Springs at night due to the timing of the traffic around the greater LA area and fog in the central valley is pretty common and I use the flashers on the road until I find an exit or can get off the road. For me the flashers are something I do not want to be without. I have a second switch for my fog/driving lights and would like to find a solution using this electronic sealed switch. The link I have already tried and that is where the solution is the mentioned relay/switch combo from Radio Shack which is pretty much impossible to find. Buying a used panel is a hit or miss I wind up with the same potential problem with the cheap crappy switch and so far are also nowhere to be found. Even a new replacement has the same switch and it makes it VERY expensive for a crap switch. I have to believe there is a simple solution using another switch without adding relays.

[MikeB]

The link I have already tried and that is where the solution is the mentioned relay/switch combo from Radio Shack which is pretty much impossible to find. Buying a used panel is a hit or miss I wind up with the same potential problem with the cheap crappy switch and so far are also nowhere to be found. Even a new replacement has the same switch and it makes it VERY expensive for a crap switch. I have to believe there is a simple solution using another switch without adding relays.

You tried this link? http://www.rattlebars.com/chetswing/anytime4ways.html
There is an option in that link that does not use a relay, only a flasher unit, a switch and some wire. You can put the switch where the OEM switch is just like the picture in the link only do not use the relay. There are several options available.
As to switch availability, the Radio Shack switch, Catalog #: 275-731 is available, just Google it.
https://www.radioshack.com/products/sps ... 5717531269
It is $4.49. It is an illuminated SPST automobile switch rated 25 amps at 12VDC and requires a 1/16” mounting hole. I'm not sure what more I can do for you.

By the way, I just bought a set of two of those switches on Ebay for $9.99 with free shipping.

[rollsroyce1934]

I already have several switches. All I am trying to do is use the extra driving light switch which has the 3 leads and adapt to the existing flashers wiring. The extra switch fits exactly into the panel without any alterations. The RadioShack switch has 3 leads as does the switches I already have. The original switch has 3 connections and 1 for the light inside the switch. The switches I have all have 3 leads without a separate lead for switch light. At this point I guess using jumpers clips to test the connections is my next option.