Champion trike conversion kit info


Information and questions on GL1800 Goldwings (2001-2017)
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salty1
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Champion trike conversion kit info

Post by salty1 »



I recently purchased a 2002 GW that has a Champion trike kit. I've read at the Champion website that they incorporate the wings rear suspension as part of the kit at the time of the build. They also install two Progressive shocks to help absorb road irregularities. My"new" trike's has a solid axle and the ride is pretty harsh. The bike's suspension adjustment doesn't appear to be working. The setting is at 15 and can't be changed. When I go to decrease or increase the setting nothing happens, its dead. I'm hope others with 1800 wings with this conversion kit can share with me their experiences


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Big Blue UK
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Re: Champion trike conversion kit info

Post by Big Blue UK »

My guess is that Champion probably applied the same principle as Lehman with their Mustang axle conversion which I have (also 2002). They incorporate the rear suspension by using the original rear shock top mounts, the original air suspension is removed, and progressive shocks are fitted, they do not bother to fit air shocks, pathetic really on a bike with air suspension to start with. It is all about cheapskating. You may well find a pair of these


Just guessing but displaying 15 may be because atmospheric pressure is 14.7psi

Get a C spanner to the rear shocks and play with the settings, old school style, play with your rear tyre pressures, I prefer 18 - 20 psi (always ride solo) well ok apart from


I know people may say 'that's low is it not dangerous'. I have rode all trikes including the reverse, and 2015 top of the range independent suspension conversion with 18" alloys. I have Dunlop GT qualifiers on the rear, I can let all the air out of one, and the tyre looks the same as the one on the other side that is inflated, try it. I have run 18 psi for years, and although tyre wear is next to nothing compared to a solo, tyre wear is even, what little there is.

If you have the rear shocks I suspect, set them to their lowest, set rear tyre pressure to 18-20 psi and try it, testing on the same bit of road.

Considerable lateral bouncing about comes with solid axle Wing trikes, you will develop a riding posture that helps on some of the rubbish roads we ride on, a nice road though is heaven.
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salty1
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Re: Champion trike conversion kit info

Post by salty1 »

Thanks for the reply Big Blue. I will set the shocks to the lowest setting and reduce my tire pressure and see if that helps. I found that the rear suspension is working after fiddling with the switch. The pump begins to engage right at 15 and goes to 25. The bike's body does lift about an inch. I assume the higher setting will create a more harsh ride.
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tfdeputydawg
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Re: Champion trike conversion kit info

Post by tfdeputydawg »

From a previous post:
"the original air suspension is removed"
The GL1800 has hydraulic rear suspension adjustment, it is not air.
For the OP:
Run the setting on up to the max of 25. Higher setting does not mean a harsher ride!
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Re: Champion trike conversion kit info

Post by 2008retiredplb »

Unless the trike (2001 to current) has an air compressor on it the suspension is electric over hydraulic.
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tfdeputydawg
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Re: Champion trike conversion kit info

Post by tfdeputydawg »

2008retiredplb wrote:Unless the trike (2001 to current) has an air compressor on it the suspension is electric over hydraulic.
2001-present GW OEM rear shock has a pump filled with "fluid" which adjusts the preset when one uses the controls to raise or lower the setting. Yes, the hydraulic pump is activated by the bikes "electrical" system.
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Re: Champion trike conversion kit info

Post by Wingrider55 »

salty1 wrote:Thanks for the reply Big Blue. I will set the shocks to the lowest setting and reduce my tire pressure and see if that helps. I found that the rear suspension is working after fiddling with the switch. The pump begins to engage right at 15 and goes to 25. The bike's body does lift about an inch. I assume the higher setting will create a more harsh ride.
If your suspension isn't engaging until 15, you may be bottoming out you suspension. Some of the 1800 have a problem with the suspension not engaging at 1 or 2, There is a fix for it. I'm posting it here for you. This is for a 2 wheeler but should be the same for a trike. The difference is how you get to the actuator. Hope this helps.

To test the actuator:
Place the bike on the center stand.
Turn the ignition to accessory.
Lower the pre-set to “0”.
Raise the pre-set and listen for a sound pitch change from the actuator.
When you hear the sound pitch change, release the pre-set button and look at the display to see where the actuator starts to add fluid through the hose to the shock pre-loader.
If your settings are anything above 0-1, then there is air in the system and it needs to be refilled.

To refill the actuator:
Place the bike on the center stand.
Turn the ignition key to accessory and lower the pre-sets to “0”.
Remove the seat and side covers.
Remove the rear fender.
Remove the three bolts inside the right saddlebag.
Remove the bolt on the outside upper right of the saddlebag to the frame.
Tilt out the bottom of the saddlebag and let it rest there.
Remove the (2) 12mm & (1) 10mm bolts from the actuator securing it to the frame.
With a pair of needle nosed pliers, squeeze the push in cable holder for the grey connector.
Remove the other connector from the actuator.
With brake cleaner, spray the area at the banjo bolt/hose so it’s clean. (will be making marks)
With a sharpie, make a dot on the top of the banjo fitting so you’ll know which end is up.
Make a small line right under the dot to the actuator body. (you are marking the orientation of the banjo fitting to the actuator body, so it gets put back in the same place)
Remove the 10mm banjo bolt from the hose.
Try to keep that end of the hose as high as you can so fluid doesn’t drain out while you continue.
With a thin screwdriver, insert it into the banjo bolt hole in the actuator and push the seal piston down with a little pressure until it bottoms out. If you feel or hear it move, try to push it down again until it stays down. (you’re trying to fill as much of the actuator reservoir as possible)
Refill the actuator. It only takes a couple ounces to top it off.
Replace the hose according to the marks you made earlier.
Before bolting it back on, test it first.
Plug both connectors back in the actuator and start the bike.
Listen for a sound pitch change as you add pre-sets. Once you hear it change sound, let the button go and look at the dash. If at “0” you’re done. If “1” or more, repeat the last steps to add more fluid.
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trikelover
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Re: Champion trike conversion kit info

Post by trikelover »

I know this may be a long shot since this is a rather old thread, but.....

...has anyone actually done this procedure on a trike? My 2008 has the exact same problem with the hydraulic portion of the suspension (won't engage until it hits 8 or 9 on the scale). Looks darn near impossible to do without removing the entire back of the trike to get to.
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Re: Champion trike conversion kit info

Post by 2008retiredplb »

trikelover wrote: Mon Jun 06, 2022 5:15 pm I know this may be a long shot since this is a rather old thread, but.....

...has anyone actually done this procedure on a trike? My 2008 has the exact same problem with the hydraulic portion of the suspension (won't engage until it hits 8 or 9 on the scale). Looks darn near impossible to do without removing the entire back of the trike to get to.
I can't say how your Champion trike suspension works but if your adjuster doesn't work until 8 or 9 it is not working very well. You need to replace the rubber hose that goes from the Adjuster to the Actuator to a SS braided hose from Traxon Dynamics.
I am familiar with Roadsmith's adjuster and have done two of these upgrades on Roadsmith trikes and it can be done on the Roadsmith Trike without removing the body. But I don't know if it can be done on your Champion Trike without removing the body.

On a road smith it can be done from underneath and the unit can be pulled out by slipping the adjuster control through the small area on the frame where the hose comes through. It did take two people to get it done and it was difficult but easier than removing the body.

On the two trikes I was involved with we took it off and I had the old one from my trike conversion so we sent two units to Traxon Dynamics to have it reconditioned and replaced the rubber hose with the Braided hose (cost for both was under $200). Then replaced the second one. Now both of our adjusters start working at 1 or 2 and goes all the way up to 25. Tremendous difference it how the trike handles.

I do have photos that show what it involves on a Roadsmith Trike and the parts I needed to send to be reconditioned. some of the parts from the original were not used on the Roadsmith Trike because they use a little different system. If you want these photo's send me a personal message with your email and I will send them to you. Or send me your phone number and I will call you and explain the process.
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Re: Champion trike conversion kit info

Post by GoldWingrGreg »

salty1 wrote: Wed Dec 07, 2016 7:58 am Thanks for the reply Big Blue. I will set the shocks to the lowest setting and reduce my tire pressure and see if that helps. I found that the rear suspension is working after fiddling with the switch. The pump begins to engage right at 15 and goes to 25. The bike's body does lift about an inch. I assume the higher setting will create a more harsh ride.
A Champion solid axel is the provide the worst ride of all trikes I've rode. Most likely your coil-over rear shocks are already set at their softest setting. I'm quite sure that they also use the OEM suspension to increase/decrease the OEM shock but am not able to currently picture that in my mind. If so, it sounds like there is something worng with that system and needs fixed.
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Re: Champion trike conversion kit info

Post by Ghostman »

This is a 6 year old thread.
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Re: Champion trike conversion kit info

Post by GoldWingrGreg »

trikelover wrote: Mon Jun 06, 2022 5:15 pm I know this may be a long shot since this is a rather old thread, but.....

...has anyone actually done this procedure on a trike? My 2008 has the exact same problem with the hydraulic portion of the suspension (won't engage until it hits 8 or 9 on the scale). Looks darn near impossible to do without removing the entire back of the trike to get to.
In the DIY'r world it is often done all the. Unfortunately when it comes to ride quality, I've not heard of anyone coming back reporting that it's made any real differance. Traxxion makes a steel braided hose and Max has some tuorials on installing them and repleeding the system.
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Re: Champion trike conversion kit info

Post by Ghostman »

On my Lehman you can access the pump by removing the right rear wheel and get to it via the wheelwell. Filling it back up will make a difference. You dont need to replace the hose just make sure the pump is completely filled. I did mine on my 07 8 years ago and it still starts on 1. Originally mine wouldnt start working until it hit 11. At the time I rode 2 up 99% of the time. I could tell the difference after topping it off.

On your Champion I would move up the shock settings to maybe the mid setting. When you have them at the softest setting your not giving the shock anything to work against when its fully loaded and it will ride rough.
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Re: Champion trike conversion kit info

Post by 2008retiredplb »

I know this has taken a long time to reply but I finally found the photo I was looking for. I added a quote from my brothers post that explains the process we did to get our Road Smith trike suspension fixed. Test the actuator like it says in the quote. If it is not working at 1 or 2 it has air in the system and you need to replace the rubber hose.
You need to replace the rubber hose that connects the actuator to the preload cylinder. The only parts that the Road Smith Trike uses are the parts with the hose connecting them together.

In order to get the parts of the bike without having to remove a lot of parts is to feed the actuator through the small triangular section of the frame below the fuel tank. with the seat off the bike. We were able to disassemble the shock from the bike from underneath. There were two bolts that held the shock in its bracket and with a little trouble we were able to remove those bolts and the shock assembly could be free. It took time to figure how to get the parts through the frame. But we were able to get it done. Once off you can send those parts to Traxion Dynamics and they will rebuild the cylinder and install the new steel braided hose and send it back to you. then reverse the process to get it back in place. I know it is not an easy job but much simpler than removing the trike body.
Once installed try the adjuster to see if it is working properly (see below). It should start working at 1 or 2.

This works on a Road Smith Trike but your Champion might be different but the cure is still to replace that rubber hose with a new braided hose.

I am not sure if I posted this repair somewhere else on this board. Hope this helps.

Image
Wingrider55 wrote: Fri Feb 03, 2017 1:55 pm To test the actuator:
Place the bike on the center stand.
Turn the ignition to accessory.
Lower the pre-set to “0”.
Raise the pre-set and listen for a sound pitch change from the actuator.
When you hear the sound pitch change, release the pre-set button and look at the display to see where the actuator starts to add fluid through the hose to the shock pre-loader.
If your settings are anything above 0-1, then there is air in the system and it needs to be refilled.
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