Cam tensioner removal


Information and questions on GL1800 Goldwings (2001-2017)
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pappyam
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Cam tensioner removal

Post by pappyam »



I purchased a 2006 abs wing last year and all I did beside changing oil and filters was ride. Now that it's winterizes, I decided to check a few things and prep her for the riding season. It has 209K km (130K miles). I started with a compression test and then valve adjustment. Without relieving tension on the tensioners, I get a loose .005 feeler on all intake except 1 that has around .0045. So I wanted to relieve pressure on the chain but, can't for the life of me get the tensioner cap off. I tried everything I could in such a limited space but nothing doing. And of course, I chewed up the cap bolt in the process. I removed 1 bolt so I could remove the tensioner and decided to ask before removing the other. Will it come straight out? It is on the right side of the bike and those abs modules seem pretty close. If not, what else is involved in removing them? I searched in the manual and online and could not find reference to this.
Don



pappyam
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Re: Cam tensioner removal

Post by pappyam »

To answer my own question in case someone else has to do this, yes the tensioner does come out and it's a PITA of a job. Now I will make a tool to wind the tensioner while I am at it.
Don

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MikeB
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Re: Cam tensioner removal

Post by MikeB »

I'm easily confused so I am uncertain what you mean by the "tensioner cap". There is a bolt that you remove to gain access to the tensioner so you can relieve cam chain tension with the tool designed for that task but not a cap.
There is a Timing Hole Cap that you remove to view crank position. Are you combining the two terms?

Anyway, access to the tensioner should not be difficult. Look at this link: --> http://www.mufflerbelt.com/1800EPSS/eps ... ead/Valve&

It will take you to the Valve Inspection page of a web based service manual for the 2001 - 2002 GL1800. The valve adjustment is the same for all years I do believe.
MikeB
1998 - GL1500 w/184,500 miles ~ 2017 - GL1800 w/13000 miles
USAF Avionics Communications Tech - 1968 - 1986 / Flight Engineer C-130E - C-141B - 1986 - 1992. Retired
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MikeB
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Re: Cam tensioner removal

Post by MikeB »

pappyam wrote:To answer my own question in case someone else has to do this, yes the tensioner does come out and it's a PITA of a job. Now I will make a tool to wind the tensioner while I am at it.
Don
You do not have to remove the tensioner to do the valve inspection or shim the valves. Just follow the Service Manual procedure.
MikeB
1998 - GL1500 w/184,500 miles ~ 2017 - GL1800 w/13000 miles
USAF Avionics Communications Tech - 1968 - 1986 / Flight Engineer C-130E - C-141B - 1986 - 1992. Retired
Industrial Maintenance Tech - 1992 - 2014
Retired in Tacoma, WA

pappyam
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Re: Cam tensioner removal

Post by pappyam »

You do not have to remove the tensioner to do the valve inspection or shim the valves. Just follow the Service Manual procedure.
No but you do have to slack the cam chain and you can't do that if you can't remove the tensioner bolt. Not a cap btw, my bad.
Don

pappyam
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Re: Cam tensioner removal

Post by pappyam »

I was wondering. The manual states to loosen the chain tensioner and then rotate the engine.It does not mention having to retention the chain between cylinder rotations. Is this correct? Won't this increase the possibility for the chain to skip a tooth?
Don

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MikeB
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Re: Cam tensioner removal

Post by MikeB »

It should not cause the chain to skip a tooth or cause the chain to come off the sprocket. The tensioner is on the slack side of the chain and the chain remains taut on both sprockets as long as you are turning the crank in the correct direction of rotation.

By the way, if you will probably find that there is no difference between the clearance measurements in the valve clearance with the tensioner in place versus having the tensioner pressure released.
MikeB
1998 - GL1500 w/184,500 miles ~ 2017 - GL1800 w/13000 miles
USAF Avionics Communications Tech - 1968 - 1986 / Flight Engineer C-130E - C-141B - 1986 - 1992. Retired
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MikeB
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Re: Cam tensioner removal

Post by MikeB »

If you will need to add shims you will be taking the cam off of the cam towers anyway and that means removing the chain from the am sprocket.
MikeB
1998 - GL1500 w/184,500 miles ~ 2017 - GL1800 w/13000 miles
USAF Avionics Communications Tech - 1968 - 1986 / Flight Engineer C-130E - C-141B - 1986 - 1992. Retired
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pappyam
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Re: Cam tensioner removal

Post by pappyam »

By the way, if you will probably find that there is no difference between the clearance measurements in the valve clearance with the tensioner in place versus having the tensioner pressure released.
That is what I heard. I will verify this theory because I already did check the clearance without loosening the chain. Now that the tensioner is out on the right side, I will check them again. BTW, most of my intake clearances, I could not get a .006" feeler in there but a .005" goes right in without effort. Does this mean I can ride another 20K miles without changing shims or am I better off to put everything back on center. If so, that's a lot of shims!! :?
Don

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MikeB
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Re: Cam tensioner removal

Post by MikeB »

I can not make that decision for you. As you know the tolerance for the intake is .006" +/- .001". If a .005 slips in with no resistance, that means you most likely have .0055" clearance. Most feeler gauge tools have a .0005" feeler you can use in combination of the .005" feeler.

If it were me and I had the shims, I would replace them. If I didn't have them, I would leave them and not worry at all and then be and check again in 30,000 miles.
MikeB
1998 - GL1500 w/184,500 miles ~ 2017 - GL1800 w/13000 miles
USAF Avionics Communications Tech - 1968 - 1986 / Flight Engineer C-130E - C-141B - 1986 - 1992. Retired
Industrial Maintenance Tech - 1992 - 2014
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pappyam
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Re: Cam tensioner removal

Post by pappyam »

Thank you MikeB. I don't have a .0005 feeler but I figure I have that much seeing the .005 slips in with no resistance. Since I don't have the shims, I will leave it as is for the coming season. I will then order a shim kit.
Don

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MikeB
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Re: Cam tensioner removal

Post by MikeB »

I've done two 2003 GL1800's. I ordered a shim kit before doing the first one because I really don't like to take things apart twice if I can only do it once.

The first one I did needed no shins. The second one I did needed 8 shims. I was lucky enough that swapping shims from one cup to another and using the shims in the kit worked out perfect but then I was short a couple of shims in the kit. I didn't want to be short of shims for the next job so I ordered four each of the ones I was out of and two each of the shims I only had two of.

The shims are 7.48 mm in diameter. I used the Hotcams HCSHIM01 kit. Shims in .05 mm increments from 1.20 mm to 3.50 mm. About $60 from Amazon. About $90 from http://www.hotcamsinc.com for the kit and replacement shims are pretty reasonable.
MikeB
1998 - GL1500 w/184,500 miles ~ 2017 - GL1800 w/13000 miles
USAF Avionics Communications Tech - 1968 - 1986 / Flight Engineer C-130E - C-141B - 1986 - 1992. Retired
Industrial Maintenance Tech - 1992 - 2014
Retired in Tacoma, WA

pappyam
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Re: Cam tensioner removal

Post by pappyam »

I just ordered a shim kit today. I decided that while I have it stripped to check it completely, might as well do it right.
Don

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Snowmoer
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Re: Cam tensioner removal

Post by Snowmoer »

Honda has a small tool that releases the tension from the tensioner. You do not have to remove it. You insert the tool in the spring and then turn it. The tension is released. When you are done, turn and remove the tool and the tension is returned to the chain. I am trying to track down the part number.

pappyam
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Re: Cam tensioner removal

Post by pappyam »

Honda has a small tool that releases the tension from the tensioner. I am trying to track down the part number.
There is and here are the part # Tensioner holder A= 07ZMG-MCAA300 Tensioner holder B= 07ZMG-MCAA400. One is for the left side and one is for right but, at the price they are selling them (well over $130 for a set), I decided to make my own while I had the tensioner out. Since mine is an abs bike, I only need it for the right side since the left is easily accessible with a screwdriver and some way to lock it there.
Don

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Snowmoer
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Re: Cam tensioner removal

Post by Snowmoer »

I found the number and it is holder #B that you listed. I was able to use it on both sides on my 2012 ABS. Wow, they went up in price. I think I only paid $30.00 for it, but that was 10 years ago. The same tool worked on my 04 ST1300.

Paulcf
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Re: Cam tensioner removal

Post by Paulcf »

I think I will just get the dealer to do this valve shim check/adjustment! Not that I am not able to, as I completely rebuilt my front forks on my 03 GL1800 last spring and I can replace the air filter in 30 minutes flat. I've removed the fuel tank just because I could and reattached the vent tube which somehow worked itself off the gas tank!

I've also flushed out the coolant and done pretty well everything else but I don't feel like buying a bunch of shims, etc. And from what I hear, most times there isn't any replacement of shims needed! I have 55 k miles on my bike and it runs great, as you would expect from Mr. Honda.

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MikeB
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Re: Cam tensioner removal

Post by MikeB »

Paulcf wrote:I think I will just get the dealer to do this valve shim check/adjustment! Not that I am not able to, as I completely rebuilt my front forks on my 03 GL1800 last spring and I can replace the air filter in 30 minutes flat. I've removed the fuel tank just because I could and reattached the vent tube which somehow worked itself off the gas tank!

I've also flushed out the coolant and done pretty well everything else but I don't feel like buying a bunch of shims, etc. And from what I hear, most times there isn't any replacement of shims needed! I have 55 k miles on my bike and it runs great, as you would expect from Mr. Honda.
So does that mean you are not going to do the valve clearance inspection because you do not want to spend money needlessly on a bunch of shims when they probably are not needed anyway?
Or does it mean you prefer to trust someone else to open it up, look inside, not replace anything, put it all back together and then hand you a large labor bill?
You obviously have technical ability. You may well be disappointed if don't tackle this little job yourself.


MikeB
1998 - GL1500 w/184,500 miles ~ 2017 - GL1800 w/13000 miles
USAF Avionics Communications Tech - 1968 - 1986 / Flight Engineer C-130E - C-141B - 1986 - 1992. Retired
Industrial Maintenance Tech - 1992 - 2014
Retired in Tacoma, WA

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