I have a new front Dunlop E4 tire on my 2005 ABS. I've had this tire on for several months now. I drive on paved roads and recently when i stopped at my home i smelled hot rubber. After sniffing around i touched the front tire and it was really hot. I checked the air pressure and it was 35 psi. I believe the specs on the motorcycle recommends 35 psi on the front. I recently read where 40 psi is recommended and this is printed on the sidewall. Will this remedy the hot tire? I know that tires will get warm but the tire was hot. Opinions accepted!
Sparky
Riding on a PRAYER and a Wing - praising God all the way!
There is no hot spot that i know of. If i rub my hand down the exposed surface it is hot. I will increase the cold temp to 40 psi and see if that changes anything. I don't want this tire to explode at 80 mph - not good!!
Thanks for the reply.....
Riding on a PRAYER and a Wing - praising God all the way!
Have you checked if the tire is mounted in the right direction? Also make sure the arrow on the wheel matches the arrow on the tire. I've heard of things getting installed backwards and it still worked.
"To ride is the reason, the destination's the excuse."
Wingrider73 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 10, 2017 6:07 pm
I have a new front Dunlop E4 tire on my 2005 ABS. I've had this tire on for several months now. I drive on paved roads and recently when i stopped at my home i smelled hot rubber. After sniffing around i touched the front tire and it was really hot. I checked the air pressure and it was 35 psi. I believe the specs on the motorcycle recommends 35 psi on the front. I recently read where 40 psi is recommended and this is printed on the sidewall. Will this remedy the hot tire? I know that tires will get warm but the tire was hot. Opinions accepted!
Sparky
If your tire is reading 35lb hot, that sounds like you started out with a lot less when cold, Check the pressure when the tire is cold and see what it is.
I set mine at 39 front and 41 rear. After a ride, when tire is warm the front will read 41-42.
By the time the tire was hot, the pressure had probably increased at least 5 psi from what it was cold, which would mean it was down to 30 psi when you started off - far too low for a GL1500 tire. I use exactly the same tires on my '97 SE, and run them at 41 psi cold. They stay nice and cool, even at highway speeds.
I have those funny pressure-sensing valve caps with the colored bands inside, and find them helpful. Once the pressure drops 1-2 psi under 40 lbs., a yellow band shows. 35 and below, a red band appears. When the tire is at 40 psi and above, the band is completely green. No gauge required, and instant peace of mine. Cheap, if you order from "overseas" (where they're all made, anyway). One of mine was broken when my new front tire was being mounted, and I bought a pack of 4 from China for around $10 including shipping, IIRC.
Thanks for the information. I will surely check the tires before each ride to be sure i don't have a really slow leak between rides. I am reasonably sure I started out at 35 psi. Didn't know about the recommended 41 psi until I read the sidewall on the tire.
Riding on a PRAYER and a Wing - praising God all the way!
I've always thought the pressure numbers on the tires were maximum, not recommended pressures. No?
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C-dub wrote: ↑Sat Nov 11, 2017 10:30 pm
I've always thought the pressure numbers on the tires were maximum, not recommended pressures. No?
This is supposedly correct, however, most of us have learned that more air equals a better handling bike and more even wear and longer life for the tires. Goldwings are really heavy suckers, and to err on the side of more air is not in error.
It ain't about the destination - it's all about the journey
Well - I finally had time to thoroughly check the tire for any leak. I soaped the tire face and the rim contact on both sides all the way round and found no leads that I could detect. I removed the valve stem cap and soaped it. I tiny bubble come from the stem so I tightened the valve stem a little more and aired it to 38 psi. The bubbles stopped so we shall see tomorrow what the pressure is. The tire lost down from 40 to about 18 over a 12 hour period. I hope this tiny leak in the valve stem was the culprit.
Thanks for all the info.....
Riding on a PRAYER and a Wing - praising God all the way!
Motorcycle: Current Rides - 2002 GL1800 - Pearl Orange 1983 Suzuki GS850GL - Blue & Black
Past rides - 2003 GL1800 - Illusion Blue 1996 GL1500 Aspencade - Pearl Blue 1992 GL1500 Aspencade -Candy Red 1980 GL1100 - Custom Cobalt Blue 1985 GL1200 Aspencade Brown 1983 CX500 Custom Red 1982 CX500 Custom Blue 1978 CX500 Standard Black 1982 Suzuki GS650 Red
C-dub wrote: ↑Sat Nov 11, 2017 10:30 pm
I've always thought the pressure numbers on the tires were maximum, not recommended pressures. No?
It is my understanding that those are Maximum COLD pressures.
Tire manufacturers count on the tire increasing in pressure when HOT -
A typical rise in pressure of 10% (approx 4 lbs ) is not uncommon.
I run my front tires at 40-41 COLD - I rarely have cupping or tire issues - but I also run Centramatics for balancing now too.
Postings are my opinions based on experience and acquired knowledge.
Your results may vary. Universal disclaimers apply.
Munk's Maxim -- There is no such thing as a cheap motorcycle
Wingrider73 wrote: ↑Sun Nov 12, 2017 4:03 pm
Well - I finally had time to thoroughly check the tire for any leak. I soaped the tire face and the rim contact on both sides all the way round and found no leads that I could detect. I removed the valve stem cap and soaped it. I tiny bubble come from the stem so I tightened the valve stem a little more and aired it to 38 psi. The bubbles stopped so we shall see tomorrow what the pressure is. The tire lost down from 40 to about 18 over a 12 hour period. I hope this tiny leak in the valve stem was the culprit.
Thanks for all the info.....
Doesn't take much a leak to lower the pressure in these tires because of the small volume of air. I had a similar problem with one of the tires on my Toy Hauler. Lost 20 lbs in about 3 weeks. Tighten the valve core and now all is good. Less than a quarter turn.
Thanks so much Guys:
After tightening the valve stem and after a couple days of sitting I checked my tire again. Much to my joy it held at the 38 psi I put in. So - hoping the fix worked. I will be riding this weekend so we shall see if the tire gets really hot again.
Thanks again.....
Riding on a PRAYER and a Wing - praising God all the way!
I've run three sets of E-3s and two sets E-4s and never allow them to drop below 39 stone cold. I've found the E-4 max cold pressures changed between the tire from the first to second but only by 1 or 2 psi. Anyway I run year round in the desert at max cold PSI with balancing beads and have not over heated a tire. Like said before the way I'm running them I get about 19k with very little cupping of feather until around 15k miles. I honestly would be hesitant to trust my front if it was hot and had been running on the highway with a hot psi of 35; I suspect tire flex heated the tire and the sidewalls may have an issue. E-3/4s are un declared run flats and are good for about 30 miles before the heat up and start to fail - I've had one rear tire valve blow that provided be with first hand experience and the I got 35 miles at 75-80mph in the night desert heat with a trailer before I felt and smelled the tire. The least I would do in your position is pull the tire and have it checked out for signs of the side walls breaking down. I hate to say it you were running on a flat and only had 35psi do to its over heating.
Tom, in Mountain Home, Idaho
2002 GL1800 (Illusion Red) Non-ABS, 128k miles
Retired Air Force
Thanks... I just today bought a new valve stem core and replaced the old one just to see if that is the culprit. I will run it a few miles today and recheck the tire pressure. Will also check the pressure in the morning to see if it lost any over night.
Riding on a PRAYER and a Wing - praising God all the way!
One more tidbit of advice... if you haven't already you should install good 90 degrees steel valve stems the next time you change tires. The 90 degree stock rubber one on my rear wheel was the culprit in my getting stranded in the desert at night - it blew out and thinking I was just shot at I hauled butt down the highway until the rear started to soften. I'd never had a valve stem blow, its impressive and of course the E-3 ran fine with 0 psi for over 30 miles.
Tom, in Mountain Home, Idaho
2002 GL1800 (Illusion Red) Non-ABS, 128k miles
Retired Air Force
I have an 08 1800 and I also get that smell sometimes, I don't think its coming from your tires. Haven't been able to pin point it yet, but think its coming from a wire or hose close to engine or exhaust. If you find it let me know.
after i replaced the air valve and aired the tire to the recommended 41 psi. I haven't smelled that again. The tire pressure is holding as well. So, we shall see...... Planning on taking an extended trip soon.
James
Riding on a PRAYER and a Wing - praising God all the way!
I monitor tire temps with an IR Temperature gun that I carry with me religiously, regardless of what vehicles I am driving/riding.
On my motorcycles, and others I have looked at ( Harleys also )
the tire temps seem to run about 115* to 125* in the summer.
The hub temps seem to run about 20* cooler than that...
this has been fairly consistent regardless of a m/c tire, or truck tire, providing that the tires are inflated to the proper psi.... on my 1800 and 1500s I used 44 psi to fill it up to, and 39-40 psi as the "low allowed"
On my Toy Hauler RV which has 10 ply ST225/R75/15 tires and 80 psi ( 90psi rated ), the tire temps yesterday were about 105* on a 70* day. Didn't measure the hub temps, but they were cleaned and repacked last week. The tires are brand new Goodyear brand
Thanks John
I think the valve stem replacement has solved my problems. More than a couple weeks now the cold temperature is holding at 40psi. Also the tire feels warm & not hot after a run around town. A good thing.
James
Riding on a PRAYER and a Wing - praising God all the way!