Bike starts only if in neutral?

[stefteach]

Hello,

this morning I went to start my bike as I normally do: insert key, rotate, pull clutch, push the starter. Nothing happened... not even a feeble attempt at cranking. After initial panic (I just replaced the alternator...), I looked at my volt-meter, it was fine: 12.5 V. The accessories turn on, the gauges fire up, everything else seems normal, except the starter; it sounds completely cut off.

Tried several times, turned off the radio, fog lights... nothing. Then just intuitively, I put my bike in neutral, and magic! It started with no issue!

This is something totally new... anyone experienced this? The only thing I can think of, is that I just installed those leather spaghetti thingy on my clutch and brake levers and I wondered if the additional leather thickness is preventing my clutch to completely disengaging the gear from the engine... is there some electrical circuit that prevents the started from firing up if the bike is in gear and the clutch is not totally disengaging?

Puzzled...

[virgilmobile]

There is a switch at the clutch lever for "in gear cranking" and yes,the stuff you wrapped around the lever changed where it operates the switch.

[virgilmobile]

Or the switch no longer works.

[stefteach]

Thank you for the quick reply... I guess I'll have to take them off. Unless the little dial on the lever is what that's for, changing where the switch engages. More research ahead...

[virgilmobile]

If you listen very close you can hear the switch click when the lever is pulled back.Try squeezing it a bit more.

[stefteach]

Thanks again... I'll check it out.

[stefteach]

Update...

I researched the issue some more, and apparently there are two switches under the clutch level and when pulling the clutch one should hear two clicks: the first one is the cruise cancel, and the second is the "start in gear" defeat. I only hear the first one.

So now I need to see how I can get the second micro-switch to engage. Doesn't sound too bad.

[virgilmobile]

Yes.The first switch is quick on the lever on mine and the start in gear clicks at full lever pull.I have heard that if a spacer is attached on the lever where it makes contact with the switch may overcome this problem.Also check your pivot bushing for excessive wear.

[stefteach]

Problem fixed, I believe. The small round dial on the lever was on 5, which I guess is the tighter setting... by placing it on 3 the second click can be heard, so I believe it's fixed (haven't turned the bike on as I have it at work in a closed space, but I'll find out later today).

Thanks for your help!

[virgilmobile]

Cool
An adjusting dial..Didn't know about that.
Mine doesn't have one...well it is almost 30 years old.

[823JIM]

Mine also will not start if in gear and the kick stand is down.

[WingAdmin]

Mine also will not start if in gear and the kick stand is down.

That's correct. And if it is in gear and you put the kick stand down (or the kick stand is down and you put it in gear) the engine should shut off. It's the bike's way of saying, "don't do what you're about to do!"

[Red Ron]

I have had it happen several times on the 1800's I have owned. Couple of times after riding several hundred miles in the rain. What happens is the micro switches in the clutch lever get grime between the contacts. Spray them clean with silicon spray or something similar and should take care of it.

[PastoT]

One more quick note... the wires for those lever actuated micro switches can pull loose on the front side of the brake/clutch lever base and you'll here the switch click as usual, but if they're not plugged in that will also disable that circuit. Its easy to do if you towel off your bike after its bath.

[wmerryall]

If you are having this problem, or a problem with the cruise control not setting, or cutting out, try this simple test. Grasp the end of the brake and or clutch lever and try moving it/them up and down. If there is play you probably need to replace the lever(s) or the pivot bushings inside.

[AlanH]

I started having this issue with my 2012 yesterday. Both switches "click" so I removed the wires and used my multi-meter to check continuity to the upper switch which I believe is the "in gear" switch. It is open with the clutch lever out, then a short (closed) when the lever is pulled in and the switch engages. So, it appears the switch is fine. Any other ideas? I have a shop manual but am not good at reading electrical diagrams. There is minimal lateral play in the clutch lever, so I also don't think that is the issue. Any other ideas appreciated.

[Techdude2000]

Well, try shorting the upper switch’s wires together and see if it will start in gear. Make sure the sidestand is up. If it starts, then the switch may have too much resistance when closed and will need to be replaced. This circuit takes the ground signal from the sidestand when it’s up and sends it to the Reverse Regulator Assembly where it’s routed to the reverse relay. If all other conditions are met, the reverse relay energizes with the key turn-on and sends this ground on to the coil of the Starter Relay “A”, where it is used to energize it when you send power to the other side of the coil with the starter/reverse button push.

[AlanH]

Well, try shorting the upper switch’s wires together and see if it will start in gear. Make sure the sidestand is up. If it starts, then the switch may have too much resistance when closed and will need to be replaced. This circuit takes the ground signal from the sidestand when it’s up and sends it to the Reverse Regulator Assembly where it’s routed to the reverse relay. If all other conditions are met, the reverse relay energizes with the key turn-on and sends this ground on to the coil of the Starter Relay “A”, where it is used to energize it when you send power to the other side of the coil with the starter/reverse button push.

You were exactly right. I shorted them together and it started in gear. Strange thing is that after reconnecting the wires it also started, so I'm now convinced the switch must have an intermittent contact problem and a new one is now on order. Thanks for the guidance!!!

[GoldWingrGreg]

is there some electrical circuit that prevents the started from firing up if the bike is in gear and the clutch is not totally disengaging?

Puzzled...

Yes ... there is a clutch switch that keeps the Wing from starting in gear unless the clutch switch is pushed in. To push the switch in, the clutch lever has to be pulled in far enough. Various add-ons as well as wear can make that not occur. Aftermarket lever, worn lever bushing, worn lever pivot pin, grips that are to fat not allowing the lever to be pulled in far enough. Also, it not unusual for the switch to get contaminated/worn and need replaced. GL1800 do have an lever adjustment with setting #1 causing the most pull. Looking down at the lever from the top you will see a chrome wheel with 5 numbers on it. For people with shorter fingers, they'll probably be on setting 5, and longer fingers on 1. To adjust, push the lever all the way out, now change the setting to line up with the arrow. For better instructions consult your Owner's Manual > index > clutch system > clutch lever adjustment.

Adjusting the setting may correct your issue.

[rick3015]

I also had the problem of my bike only starting in neutral. After reading this whole thread I went out and pulled in my lever completely and only heard one click. I checked the dial adjustment and saw it was set at 4. I moved the dial to 3, pulled in the clutch lever completely and got two clicks, just barely. I have thin foam grips over the OEM grips. I set the dial to 2, which should work for me since I have large hands.