Getting hot under seat, intermittent loss of lights and dash

[wehrd1]

2010 1800 with 52k miles.

Part getting hot

Intermittent loss tail lights and all dash guages go dead while riding...in and out.

Dealer changed the relay.... everything was great...for about an hour.

The blue part, located under the seat, shown in picture, is getting hot. My husband has isolated his issue to this part. He can get reaction when he wiggles this part.
If he moves it, the guages and lights come to life.....move it the other direction everything dies.
Is it replaceable, repairable? It's there something causing this issue now? The bike has always had a hitch and trailer harness since day 1. Issue started about 300 miles ago.
Is this something he can fix himself without stripping the plastics of to the frame? He has wiring knowledge.

[DaveO430]

That is a gang connector, he could pull the cap off and look inside but it is not a part that can be had separate from the wiring harness. What he can do is solder the wires of the same color together and eliminate the connector.

[wehrd1]

he took the cap off and used contact cleaner before he started cutting into the wires.

Now the bike won't start - no turning over - nothing. He does have a few electronics that work, his radio comes on, a the indicators when the key is first turned on

any add'l ideas at what has caused this new issue?

Thank you

[DaveO430]

he took the cap off and used contact cleaner before he started cutting into the wires.

Now the bike won't start - no turning over - nothing. He does have a few electronics that work, his radio comes on, a the indicators when the key is first turned on

any add'l ideas at what has caused this new issue?

Thank you

Check if the kill switch got turned off accidentally, been there and done that. I have serious doubts contact cleaner will fix the problem.

[wehrd1]

I misheard. hes got nothing now.
killswitch is on

he ran to town to get fuses.

any place to look for a short that blew all elec when he used contact cleaner, before he starts cutting into wires?

[wehrd1]

I misheard. hes got nothing now.
killswitch is on

he ran to town to get fuses.

any place to look for a short that blew all elec when he used contact cleaner, before he starts cutting into wires?

he figured out his no power issue. The battery finally died. he put a power jumper pack on it, and it started right up.

off to the store tomorrow to buy a new battery. We hope the other issue is resolved as well, now that it's been cleaned

[Techdude2000]

If it’s been getting hot, C25, the blue junction connector will need to be bypassed, cleaning it at this point will not fix it. There’s 4 circuits in it and usually the FI system wires are the first to come down with a bad connection that starts melting the connector. Here is the pin out of it and the associated circuits that are connected by the cap of this connector. Each of the 4 circuit’s pins need to be inspected and evaluated. Any that show signs of heat, looseness in the connector, or browning of the surrounding plastic need to be cut off of the connector and soldered together and either heat shrunk or electrical tape wrapped really well. Any that are not showing any signs of a bad connection or meltdown can stay connected in the connector.

Pins 1-6 Cruise Ctrl Power (black/yellow wires)
Pins 7-10 Tail light Power (brown/white wires)
Pins 11-16 Accessory Circuit (light green/black wires)
Pins 17-20 Fuel Injection System Power (black/yellow)

Take note that the cruise control power and the FI system wires are the same colors, but they are not connected to each other and should not be connected to each other during this repair.

[GoldWingrGreg]

That is a gang connector, ...

I like that term ... what a great way to describe it. Maybe a multi-gang connector all living under one hood is a better description:)

[wehrd1]

only had to do the brown/white wires. all is right again!!

THANKS GUYS!

[Techdude2000]

only had to do the brown/white wires. all is right again!!

THANKS GUYS!

Great!

[Viking]

Did Mother Honda do anything to take care of this issue going forward, does anyone know? As I have a 2009, it could start for me in about five years if they did nothing. I am positive that five years from now, if it is a common occurrence, I will not remember this thread, so if that is the case, I need to copy the info into my screwed up folder for screwed up things Mother Honda did not fix going forward. I know 2006 was a banner year for upgrades but was this a fix they did?

[Techdude2000]

Did Mother Honda do anything to take care of this issue going forward, does anyone know? As I have a 2009, it could start for me in about five years if they did nothing. I am positive that five years from now, if it is a common occurrence, I will not remember this thread, so if that is the case, I need to copy the info into my screwed up folder for screwed up things Mother Honda did not fix going forward. I know 2006 was a banner year for upgrades but was this a fix they did?

No, the bike in this thread is a 2010. Some connectors were changed to improved versions, but as this one demonstrates, not all were upgraded. This is the first 2010 bike that I’ve heard of with the issue, but the connector in the picture above looks exactly like the older model’s version that can develope the same issue.

[DaveO430]

All electrical connectors fail eventually, some sooner than others.

[Techdude2000]

All electrical connectors fail eventually, some sooner than others.

True, but this connector is extremely cheap and inferior to today’s auto connectors. I’m really surprised we don’t see more of them failing everyday.