Ground locations
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- Posts: 15
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Ground locations
I'm trying to find all of the grounds on a GL1800 and their locations to try to clean all of them, thinking it is a cause of another problem I got with it. Can any one help me locate the grounds. I found the one from the battery to the engine. I Cleaned the forward and rear grounds in the connections in the harness. Are there grounds located on the frame anywhere? Thanks for reading.
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2004 Suzuki DR200
Re: Ground locations
On the frame just in front of the rear shock, under the gas tank, you have to pull the tank to get to it.
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Re: Ground locations
Thank you very much for the reply. I'll have a look at that ground. I was expecting to have to disassemble something, but the tank is not so bad, "I think"! If that is the right one it will fix a real headache. I'll let you know how it goes. Again thank you.
- AZgl1800
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'02 GL1800 lives in Dawsonville, GA now.
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Re: Ground locations
There other locations where 2 or more green wires disappear into the harness, and are then spliced together into one green wire of roughly the same gauge as all the other wires that are run to that one splice.
IMO, the wire going to the Frame Ground, should be heavier, and the Spliced point, should have been left where it could be seen.
DaveO430 can direct you to the buried splices.
IMO, the wire going to the Frame Ground, should be heavier, and the Spliced point, should have been left where it could be seen.
DaveO430 can direct you to the buried splices.
- cihilb
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Re: Ground locations
There are multiple wires going to the ground under the tank. When i had my 2004, I needed to tighten the hose clamps under the tank. While I was in there i cleaned the grounds with a wire brush and them added another heavy wire and grounded it to another spot on the frame.
Again, while you are doing the grounds, tighten the hose clamps on the Y pipe.
Again, while you are doing the grounds, tighten the hose clamps on the Y pipe.
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Re: Ground locations
I really appreciate all the input. I will definitely put all the advice to use. Big Help! God Bless all of you.
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2004 Suzuki DR200
Re: Ground locations
There is a ground gang connector taped to the harness in the front of the fairing ahead of the instrument panel that has been known to cause problems.AZgl1800 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 10, 2019 4:48 pm There other locations where 2 or more green wires disappear into the harness, and are then spliced together into one green wire of roughly the same gauge as all the other wires that are run to that one splice.
IMO, the wire going to the Frame Ground, should be heavier, and the Spliced point, should have been left where it could be seen.
DaveO430 can direct you to the buried splices.
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Re: Ground locations
I'll be sure to look at that one also, while in the middle of all of this. Thanks again for all of the help everyone. This is looking better all the time.
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Re: Ground locations
On this end, the year is always helpful. Also, what issues are you having ???ilovewmr wrote: ↑Sat Feb 09, 2019 8:52 pm I'm trying to find all of the grounds on a GL1800 and their locations to try to clean all of them, thinking it is a cause of another problem I got with it. Can any one help me locate the grounds. I found the one from the battery to the engine. I Cleaned the forward and rear grounds in the connections in the harness. Are there grounds located on the frame anywhere? Thanks for reading.
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Re: Ground locations
To everyone that helped me find the ground locations on the 2003 GL 1800 THANK YOU SO MUCH! Took every thing apart today and put a new air filter in and found the grounds right in front of shock. Took them off and cleaned all of them. Also added an additional ground from that location to the ground side on the battery. Put it all back together and everything works perfect. Praise the Lord! Thanks again guys, you saved the day. God bless all of you. Very much appreciated.
PS. I know, red is all I had!!! I'm going to get a sharpie!
PS. I know, red is all I had!!! I'm going to get a sharpie!
- WingAdmin
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Re: Ground locations
I've done that before in a pinch as well, I just spiral wrapped the wire in green electrical tape to "make" it green to match all the other ground wires on the bike.
Keep in mind, on Honda bikes:
red = +12V from battery
black = switched +12V
green = ground
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Re: Ground locations
Good idea with the green tape. Thanks for the color code reminder also. I'll be sure to put that to memory, what little is left, memory that is.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
- Mountain rider
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Re: Ground locations
I'm getting ready to do that very thing on my 1800. I've got a very annoying buzz that comes and goes through the intercom, and I'm betting it's ground loop related. Has anyone installed a buss bar for the main ground, rather than using that single stud? I'm just thinking with a buss bar, I could apply solder to the wire ends and provide each ground wire with a single contact point as well as being able to attach an additional ground from the frame and the battery. Apply a coat of spray protectant and it should be good for a good while.
Completely off the subject, but what is the handle for on your right passenger floor board? Almost looks like a park brake handle.
Completely off the subject, but what is the handle for on your right passenger floor board? Almost looks like a park brake handle.
SFC, U.S. Army Artillery, Retired
Now, fully retired
Now, fully retired
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- Posts: 15
- Joined: Fri Feb 08, 2019 7:21 pm
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Re: Ground locations
That's what it is. A Park brake. Works good. Yea, one fellow told me that there is a ground in the front somewhere and I'm getting ready to hunt it down. But once you clean those grounds even when they do not look that bad, things will straighten up and act right. At least they did with the ground I cleaned. Never go wrong with extra grounds any where.
- Mountain rider
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Re: Ground locations
Park brake, who'd a thunk. I'm looking at redoing my ground just so it's easier to work on. I can add a ground block mounted under the seat for ease of access, connect it to the main ground lug, add a ground strap to the battery and the frame, then connect all the ground wires to it. With that many grounds to one point, there should never be a ground issue again, and if there is, you can actually get to it.
SFC, U.S. Army Artillery, Retired
Now, fully retired
Now, fully retired
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Re: Ground locations
Sounds like a good plan. It won't take that long. It will be worth the time.
Re: Ground locations
Hi there, appears I might have same issue. Checked front looms under RHS trunk. Now trying the main erthy you have the photo of above. Any trick in getting fuel tank out as the RHS has a protruison under the frame the prevents it from coming stright up and out?ilovewmr wrote: ↑Fri Feb 15, 2019 6:21 pm To everyone that helped me find the ground locations on the 2003 GL 1800 THANK YOU SO MUCH! Took every thing apart today and put a new air filter in and found the grounds right in front of shock. Took them off and cleaned all of them. Also added an additional ground from that location to the ground side on the battery. Put it all back together and everything works perfect. Praise the Lord! Thanks again guys, you saved the day. God bless all of you. Very much appreciated.
PS. I know, red is all I had!!! I'm going to get a sharpie!
Cheers KB
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Re: Ground locations
Hi there
Remove the battery tray. This is to give you some clearance for twisting / pivoting the tank.
Spray the sides of the tank with silicone lubricant (or WD 40 type stuff).
Lift from the front and rear and rotate it to the right of the bike to let that protuberance come out from under the frame rail.
If you've lubricated the sides of the tank it should come out without too much difficulty.
Good luck.
Kind regards
Don

Remove the battery tray. This is to give you some clearance for twisting / pivoting the tank.
Spray the sides of the tank with silicone lubricant (or WD 40 type stuff).
Lift from the front and rear and rotate it to the right of the bike to let that protuberance come out from under the frame rail.
If you've lubricated the sides of the tank it should come out without too much difficulty.
Good luck.
Kind regards
Don
- kwthom
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Re: Ground locations
Old post...
I think Fred H. did a pictorial on a couple of additional beefed up ground wires (like #6 or #8, IIRC) from the two engine ground mount points directly to that G2 ground lug, in addition to soldering all of the ground lugs together. I did all of that on my 2006, and boy oh boy did that quiet down that machine.
My 2016 isn't quite ready for that treatment, I think it was roughly year eight that I did that fix - might have a couple of years before I need to tear into that.
Probably about the time the rear shock will need to be serviced.
A *better* solution is...find the G2 ground (under the fuel tank) and clean those aluminum threads really good.Mountain rider wrote: ↑Sun Mar 03, 2019 2:17 am I'm getting ready to do that very thing on my 1800. I've got a very annoying buzz that comes and goes through the intercom, and I'm betting it's ground loop related. Has anyone installed a buss bar for the main ground, rather than using that single stud? I'm just thinking with a buss bar, I could apply solder to the wire ends and provide each ground wire with a single contact point as well as being able to attach an additional ground from the frame and the battery. <...>
I think Fred H. did a pictorial on a couple of additional beefed up ground wires (like #6 or #8, IIRC) from the two engine ground mount points directly to that G2 ground lug, in addition to soldering all of the ground lugs together. I did all of that on my 2006, and boy oh boy did that quiet down that machine.
My 2016 isn't quite ready for that treatment, I think it was roughly year eight that I did that fix - might have a couple of years before I need to tear into that.
Probably about the time the rear shock will need to be serviced.
Effective 07/02/2022, in a self-imposed "social media detox" - focusing on offline social interactions and actions.
Re: Ground locations
Hey Don,North Western wrote: ↑Sun Apr 17, 2022 3:59 am Hi there![]()
Remove the battery tray. This is to give you some clearance for twisting / pivoting the tank.
Spray the sides of the tank with silicone lubricant (or WD 40 type stuff).
Lift from the front and rear and rotate it to the right of the bike to let that protuberance come out from under the frame rail.
If you've lubricated the sides of the tank it should come out without too much difficulty.
Good luck.
Kind regards
Don
bargin worked a treat thanks, good on lube worked wonders.
Cheers KB