Reverse


Information and questions on GL1800 Goldwings (2001-2017)
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yodave
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Motorcycle: I own two motorcycles, 2007 GL1800 Goldwing Trike; and a 2009 Harley Davidson Electra Glide

Reverse

Post by yodave »



Is there any way to speed up reverse? It is painfully slow. I Am a first time owner of a 2007 GL1800 Trike.


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GoldWingrGreg
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Re: Reverse

Post by GoldWingrGreg »

No ... just make sure all conditions are right.
- engine running for it to back-up
- side stand up
- transmission in 'N'
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Steve F
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'03 GL1800
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Re: Reverse

Post by Steve F »

GoldWingrGreg wrote: Sun Sep 08, 2019 7:37 pm No ... just make sure all conditions are right.
- engine running for it to back-up
- side stand up
- transmission in 'N'
He's got a trike. Are they the same? Except the side stand part?
"To ride is the reason, the destination's the excuse."
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GoldWingrGreg
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Re: Reverse

Post by GoldWingrGreg »

Steve F wrote: Sun Sep 08, 2019 11:55 pm
GoldWingrGreg wrote: Sun Sep 08, 2019 7:37 pm No ... just make sure all conditions are right.
- engine running for it to back-up
- side stand up
- transmission in 'N'
He's got a trike. Are they the same? Except the side stand part?
Yes ... except that most trike kits either tape the side-stand switch in the "up" position, or by-pass the side-stand switch, so that the ECM thinks it is in the up position, or it still has a side-stand, in which case it needs to be up.
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AZgl1800
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Re: Reverse

Post by AZgl1800 »

yodave wrote: Sun Sep 08, 2019 5:31 pm Is there any way to speed up reverse? It is painfully slow. I Am a first time owner of a 2007 GL1800 Trike.
Nope, as Greg has already mentioned.

But, I will mention one more item you need to do.

Find that sidestand switch, and remove the wires from it.
Install a toggle switch someplace where you can get to it if ever needed.
Reason for this is, the ECM must "think" the sidestand is "down" in order for it to give out the Diagnostic Codes on the FI light ( that is fault indicator ) , not the digit '1'.

those codes show up as longs and shorts.
2 long codes followed by 5 short flashes = '25' which is a code among many that the ECM can display.

you may never need it, but hey, if you do, you will be glad that toggle switch is already there.

will post that list in a new post...
~John

2009 Piaggio MP3 250cc

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AZgl1800
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'02 GL1800 lives in Dawsonville, GA now.
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Re: Reverse

Post by AZgl1800 »

this info has been lost in various posts with thread names not relating to the actual codes, so here is the list with the actual name for this code list.
_______________________________________________________________




FI or Fault Indicator codes



If FI (Fault Indicator) light comes on pull over but DO NOT shut bike off. Put in neutral and put side stand down, RPM’s below 1500. This signals the ECM to send the error code to the FI light. Count the number of long and short flashes. This will give you the error code. Also known as Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL)

If you shut the bike off the error code is lost - sort of. It will be retained in the ECM but it is harder to get out. If the bike stops and will not restart you can get the FI light to flash the error code by cranking the engine for 10 seconds. The FI light will then flash the error code.

Long Blink = 10 Short Blink = 1
i.e. long long long short short short = 33 check error code 33

Number of MIL blinks .Symptoms
.Cause

0 No blinks • Engine does not start

• Open circuit in the power input and ground wires of the ECM: • Faulty bank angle sensor
• Open circuit in bank angle sensor related wires: • Faulty FI IGN relay: • Open circuit in FI IGN relay related wires
• Faulty engine stop switch: • Open circuit in engine stop switch related wires: • Faulty ECM: • Blown FI IGN fuse (20 A)
• Blown ST. KILL fuse (10 A):

0 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty combination meter: • Faulty ECM


0 Stays lit • Engine operates normally
• Short circuit in service check connector wire: • Short circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty ECM


1 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected MAP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in MAP sensor wire: • Faulty MAP sensor


7 Blinks • Hard to start at a low temperature (ECM controls using preset value; coolant temperature: 85° C/185° F)
• Loose or poorly connected ECT sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in ECT sensor wire: • Faulty ECT sensor


8 Blinks • Poor engine response when operating the throttle quickly (ECM controls using preset value; throttle opening: 0° )
• Loose or poorly connected TP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty TP sensor


9 Blinks • Engine operates normally (ECM controls using preset value; intake air temperature: 28° C/82° F)
• Loose or poorly connected IAT sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty IAT sensor


10 Blinks • Engine operates normally at low altitude
• Engine idles roughly at a high altitude (ECM controls using preset value; barometric pressure: 760 mm Hg/1,013 hPa)
• Loose or poorly connected BARO sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in BARO sensor wire: • Faulty BARO sensor


11 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected vehicle speed sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in vehicle speed sensor wire: • Faulty vehicle speed sensor


12 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 1 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 1 injector wire: • Faulty No. 1 injector


13 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 2 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 2 injector wire: • Faulty No. 2 injector


14 No blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 3 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 3 injector wire: • Faulty No. 3 injector


15 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 4 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 4 injector wire: • Faulty No. 4 injector



16 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 5 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 5 injector wire: • Faulty No. 5 injector


17 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 6 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 6 injector wire: • Faulty No. 6 injector


18 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected camshaft position sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in camshaft position sensor wire: • Faulty camshaft position sensor


19 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected ignition pulse generator connector:
• Open or short circuit in ignition pulse generator wire: • Faulty ignition pulse generator


21 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


22 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


23 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


24 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


25 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected right knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in right knock sensor wire: • Faulty right knock sensor


26 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected left knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in left knock sensor wire: • Faulty left knock sensor

29 Blinks • Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Loose or poorly connected idle air control (IAC) valve connector: • Open or short circuit in IAC valve wire: • Faulty idle air control valve


33 Blinks • ECM does not hold the self diagnostic data
• Faulty E2-PROM in ECM • Engine operates normally


41 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected connector in gear position switch related circuits
• Open or short circuit in gear position switch wires: • Faulty gear position switch: • Faulty clutch switch: • Faulty side stand switch

...................

Engine cranks but won’t start
• No fuel in tank, • No fuel to injector, – Clogged fuel filter, – Pinched or clogged fuel feed hose, – Pinched or clogged fuel tank breather tube, – Faulty fuel pump, – Faulty fuel pump circuits, • Intake air leak, • Contaminated / deteriorated fuel, • Faulty fuel injector, • Idle air control valve stuck closed, • No spark at plug Faulty ignition system

Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Restricted fuel feed hose, • Contaminated/deteriorated fuel, • Intake air leak, • Faulty idle air control valve, • Restricted fuel tank breather tube, • Misadjusted idle adjusting screw, • Faulty ignition system

Afterburn when engine braking is used
• Faulty pulse secondary air injection (PAIR) system, – Faulty PAIR control solenoid valve, – Faulty PAIR check valve, – Clogged hose of the PAIR system, • Faulty ignition system

Backfiring or misfiring during acceleration
• Faulty ignition system

Poor performance drive-ability and poor fuel economy
• Pinched or clogged fuel feed hose, • Faulty pressure regulator, • Faulty ignition system
~John

2009 Piaggio MP3 250cc

https://i.imgur.com/4SOFPYS.jpg
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Rambozo
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Re: Reverse

Post by Rambozo »

yodave wrote: Sun Sep 08, 2019 5:31 pm Is there any way to speed up reverse? It is painfully slow. I Am a first time owner of a 2007 GL1800 Trike.
Speed is just a question of money. how fast can your wallet, go?
Terry D
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Re: Reverse

Post by Terry D »

Of course it is slow. A starter motor is pushing that heavy bike backwards. So to be able to do it without burning up the motor is to have it geared for torque not speed.
It ain't the destination but the getting there. You are not lost until you run out of gas.
Techdude2000
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Re: Reverse

Post by Techdude2000 »

yodave wrote: Sun Sep 08, 2019 5:31 pm Is there any way to speed up reverse? It is painfully slow. I Am a first time owner of a 2007 GL1800 Trike.
Only thing you can do is rev the engine a little to make the alternator keep the voltage up while backing up. It won’t go much faster, but it also won’t hurt.


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