Took a chance to take advantage of last saturday's 58 degrees here in illinois, had to air up a low front tire, to be expected late winter. But to my surprise, the tire was low, hot, and shot 20 miles later. Looked in the DIY to see how to remove the wheel so I can take it to the shop for new rubber but didn't find a walk through for it. Can't drive it to the shop for tire replacement. My guess on failure is rim corrosion to cause the air loss so quick. TY in advance on how to remove the front wheel to get a new shoe on her.
Basically, you would have to put the bike on center stand, and support the front of the engine in order to take the weight off the front wheel. Then remove the two parts of the fender, then the two brake calipers. Cut a couple of pieces of coat hanger or use short bungee cords to support the calipers. Do not let them hang from the brake lines. Now you can remove the front axle, minding where the spacers go, and the front wheel will drop out. Reverse this to reinstall.
It ain't about the destination - it's all about the journey
tamathumper wrote: ↑Thu Feb 27, 2020 5:37 am
Pages 185-192 of the Service Manual outline the procedure for removing and replacing the front wheel. Do you have a copy of that?
Tama, did you mean the Owners Manual?
If so, I see the procedure outlined in the 2003 Owners Manual on Pg 180 through 185.
The Honda Service Manual front wheel removal starts on page 13-16.
It starts with several pages of dire warnings about climate change and first-born surrender should you attempt this procedure yourself, then it has several pages of photographs with numbered arrows pointing at what you take off, in what order.
It has the proper torque values for all fasteners, which is funny given they warn you against never doing this unless you're stranded in the desert. With your torque wrench, apparently?
'03 GL1800A - Warning: fopen() [function.fopen]: failed to open stream: Sense of humor not found on line 2
Viking wrote: ↑Thu Feb 27, 2020 12:47 pm
Basically, you would have to put the bike on center stand, and support the front of the engine in order to take the weight off the front wheel. Then remove the two parts of the fender, then the two brake calipers. Cut a couple of pieces of coat hanger or use short bungee cords to support the calipers. Do not let them hang from the brake lines. Now you can remove the front axle, minding where the spacers go, and the front wheel will drop out. Reverse this to reinstall.
TY that was why I asked here, wasn't sure how to handle the brake pads.
Viking wrote: ↑Fri Feb 28, 2020 2:15 pm
Hey, ease up guys. The OP has a 2003 bike. Maybe he does not have an owners manual. I thought we were here to help rather than to criticize.
yup,
my 2002 did not come with the owner's manual.
when I needed to know what to do, I just rang up a friend and asked with pinch bolt should be loosened first.
jacked the motor up a couple inches and it rolled right out.
Thanks MikeB, My 2012 trike goldwing didnt have a Owners manual with it. Dont know why the owners manual end up being missing on trikes. I now have one from the site you put up. Many Thanks.
An Owner's Manual gives information on operation, care, maintenance, and what to do in emergency situations. For anyone who does not have one, they can be ordered from www.helminc.com. They usually cost less than $20. The answers to probably more than 70% of the questions posted on forum web pages can be found in them.
TY, got it done. As someone pointed out use the manual that didn't come with the bike My only growl was finding that the last shop tire change, someone stripped one of the axle clamp bolts. Gonna see if on this change I can get a bolt 1" longer and put a nylon self locking nut on the end of it, instead of replacing the fork end.
Having pulled the front tire from my 02 many times I find it a little less work to simply leave the left side brake caliper and secondary master cylinder in place. Also I support the front of the bike on a stack of 2x4s and strap the center stand forward to the crash bars. Just take your time guiding the rotor back between the brake disks and then slide the right side caliper back in place. Remember to thread lock the brake caliper bolts.
Tom, in Mountain Home, Idaho
2002 GL1800 (Illusion Red) Non-ABS, 128k miles
Retired Air Force
Motorcycle: Current Rides - 2002 GL1800 - Pearl Orange 1983 Suzuki GS850GL - Blue & Black
Past rides - 2008 GL1800 Titanium 2003 GL1800 - Illusion Blue 1996 GL1500 Aspencade - Pearl Blue 1992 GL1500 Aspencade -Candy Red 1980 GL1100 - Custom Cobalt Blue 1985 GL1200 Aspencade Brown 1983 CX500 Custom Red 1982 CX500 Custom Blue 1978 CX500 Standard Black 1982 Suzuki GS650 Red
bookmaker wrote: ↑Thu Feb 27, 2020 12:56 am
Took a chance to take advantage of last saturday's 58 degrees here in illinois, had to air up a low front tire, to be expected late winter. But to my surprise, the tire was low, hot, and shot 20 miles later. Looked in the DIY to see how to remove the wheel so I can take it to the shop for new rubber but didn't find a walk through for it. Can't drive it to the shop for tire replacement. My guess on failure is rim corrosion to cause the air loss so quick. TY in advance on how to remove the front wheel to get a new shoe on her.
You mean to say that you had the bike in cold storage for the winter ---
And it got warm enough to try a ride and only after you went 20+ miles decided to check the air pressure..?
My advice to anyone is to check tire pressure before you ride.
Postings are my opinions based on experience and acquired knowledge.
Your results may vary. Universal disclaimers apply.
Munk's Maxim -- There is no such thing as a cheap motorcycle
You mean to say that you had the bike in cold storage for the winter ---
And it got warm enough to try a ride and only after you went 20+ miles decided to check the air pressure..?
My advice to anyone is to check tire pressure before you ride.
No, it was an air up to ride, then found out it was flat again after 20+ mile ride. Original post was how to do a self removal without a manual to take wheel in for new shoe since I trashed the old one. Got it fixed and original problem was a bad valve stem, reason it didn't hold air on the ride and I couldn't drive to shop for fix.
A bad valve stem will certainly cause that problem. Can't say that I have ever experienced that myself. I have replaced my composite metal/rubber OEM valve stems with solid metal valve stems.
Looked in the DIY to see how to remove the wheel so I can take it to the shop for new rubber but didn't find a walk through for it. Can't drive it to the shop for tire replacement. My guess on failure is rim corrosion to cause the air loss so quick. TY in advance on how to remove the front wheel to get a new shoe on her. 
My only growl was finding that the last shop tire change, someone stripped one of the axle clamp bolts. Gonna see if on this change I can get a bolt 1" longer and put a nylon self locking nut on the end of it, instead of replacing the fork end.
