Wrong Battery Boost Hook-Up, Now No NAV+

[Toy3zve]

Got a question for you guys on my 'Wing (2007 NAV/ABS).

A while back I needed to jump-start it, so I hooked up the booster pack to the batt. terms, turned it on, and nothing. Hit the BOOST button on the pack and still nothing. Looked at the wires, and, dummy me...The previous owner had wired in a battery maintainer and had hooked up a quick-connect wire pack to the battery. Unknown to me (until I looked closer), he had home-wired in a black wire to POS and a red wire to NEG. Dummy me hooked up the booster pack backwards and fried things.

Checked the following:
- Replaced the main fusible links (2).
- Checked (with test light and test meter) all fuses and relays.
- Replaced the NAV module/box.
- Unplugged the battery several times for 10 minutes + each time.

The following don't work:
- NAV screen (it lights up a very soft grey, with horizontal lines through it).
- Turn signals and 4-ways (the bulbs light up but don't flash).
- Radio, CB, AUX, Comms.
- Key fob doesn't unlock the bags.

These DO work:
- Starts right up every time.
- Headlights.
- Brake lights.
- Horn.
- Instruments (Speedo, ODO, Gas gauge, etc.).
- Ride height adjustment.

Haven't been able to ride it for a while now. Hope you have some insight. Thanks.

[AZgl1800]

the Upside?
you now know, that you can never trust wiring done by a Previous Owner, no matter how braggadocio they are.

my 2002 had a ton of crazy PO installed wiring, and when I traced them out from end to end, all but one was pulled and thrown in the trash. that one? a fused +12 volts to go to the trailer, but it just dead ended and had exposed wires at the end.

You will need to use a Voltmeter to test to see if everything is getting the power it needs.

and with that, I will bow out to the 1800 gurus.

[Rambozo]

Sounds like a lot of your solid state devices died to protect the fuses. Very common on lots of things, these days. A lot of those battery maintainer plugs use the same color coding on both sides, so one side will always be wrong. You want the exposed pin on the bike side to be ground no matter the color.

[AZgl1800]

Sounds like a lot of your solid state devices died to protect the fuses. Very common on lots of things, these days. A lot of those battery maintainer plugs use the same color coding on both sides, so one side will always be wrong. You want the exposed pin on the bike side to be ground no matter the color.

Absolutely,
the Battery Tender hookup on my bike, to the battery is black on both sides!!!!

make triple sure, the exposed pin is ground....

[tamathumper]

On many electrical items with mono-colored wiring there is one wire with a raised ridge, or a light grey solid or dashed line, that indicates the positive side. Check your manufacturer's instructions for details.

[WingAdmin]

On many electrical items with mono-colored wiring there is one wire with a raised ridge, or a light grey solid or dashed line, that indicates the positive side. Check your manufacturer's instructions for details.

Don't trust this - I have wires that use the raised edge to indicate negative as well.

[tamathumper]

Yup, hence the "check your manufacturer's instructions".

My point being there usually aren't two indistinguishable black wires, one has a feature or marking of some kind, even if it's only the lettering that indicates manufacturer, gauge and capacity of the wire.

[Toy3zve]

Okay. Thanks for the help guys.

[Techdude2000]

Sounds like you blew up the Accessory relay. Find it in the bank under the seat and swap it with another one like it in the bank. Have you checked the fuse labeled “CB/Radio/Flasher”, it powers this relay and this relay powers lots of stuff, including the Nav unit. Does the radio turn on and have any sound?

[Toy3zve]

Does the radio turn on and have any sound?

No, no sound. Nothing in the 'sound' department works at all.

[Techdude2000]

Ok, that relay and the associated fuse supply power to the audio unit, the turn signals, the Nav unit, etc... I believe this circuit is definitely suspect.

[Toy3zve]

Thanks. I shall try it out tomorrow and update.

[Techdude2000]

Check the fuse labeled “Battery” as well.

[Toy3zve]

Checked and swapped out the 20-amp fuse, no joy. Swapped out the 20-amp relay with two different relays, still no joy. The LCD screen initially goes bright for just a second, then does very dim grey with some horizontal lines through it. And remember, I DID replace the NAV module/computer to see it that would work and no, it didn't.

Horn works,engine starts and runs with full instruments, just no blinkers, no sound, no LCD screen.

[infotechjrf]

I agree with Rambozo that most of your Solid State Devices (Electronics, mostly) might have just died as result of the shortage caused by the reversed charge DC polarity.

- For the Turn Signal/4-Way flashers issue, this specific relay is a pain in the butt to access but it's located right at the back of your Instrument Cluster, somewhat attached to a rubber latch under the windshield adjuster frame behind the dash console.

Some prefer to take off the cluster to access it (Like me); or will take off the nose front cover and remove windshield frame assembly to reach it. With the Premium Audio Package it's almost worthless trying using the bike's front method since speakers housings are way bigger and you almost don't have any way of running of fingers around.

- See this how-to video from Cruiseman ;

   Never miss a video: Subscribe to the GoldwingDocs YouTube channel today!

- Also attached a screenshot of a wiring diagram showing critical portions of the Accessories Electrical Circuitry.

Good luck with your project.
JR

[wl.edwards]

Well had the system been engineered properly there would be reverse current-flow diodes in the system to protect your various computers and prevent the kind of damage you clearly now have. It is very possible you have fried every circuit the power ran through. Most computer systems use two voltages and very low current but in series they could pull enough load to cause more than enough current flow to burn open the tiny 3.3 volt and 5.0 volt transistors that make up the ic chips. The Gold Wing has several computers. Maybe, if you are lucky you just burned out the coils in your relay pack and replacing relays could fix it. Get the shop manual and start testing the circuits one by one following the troubleshooting tree. Also, when I bought my bike I removed all the extra electrical crap the previous owner installed.

[Techdude2000]

Checked and swapped out the 20-amp fuse, no joy. Swapped out the 20-amp relay with two different relays, still no joy. The LCD screen initially goes bright for just a second, then does very dim grey with some horizontal lines through it. And remember, I DID replace the NAV module/computer to see it that would work and no, it didn't.

Horn works,engine starts and runs with full instruments, just no blinkers, no sound, no LCD screen.

Ok, did you check the fuse labeled “Battery”. Is the clock keeping the correct time or is it resetting to noon when you turn off the key? If you have a handheld voltmeter we can run through some checks to see if power is going everywhere it should go. Everything is not fried, most of the things on the bike are only powered by a relay for its circuit, when the power was reversed none of those relays would energize so none of those circuits could get reversed power and get damaged. The relays all have kickback diodes in them and they can get shorted or opened by the reverse power.

[wl.edwards]

Look, stop hunting for the invisible man. Get the shop manual and follow the troubleshooting diagnostic tree. This is way too complicated for the moron in the hayfield method. They might even have it on goldwing docs! You have at least 3 computers and two relay banks, fuse links, routing switches, etc etc.

[Techdude2000]

Look, stop hunting for the invisible man. Get the shop manual and follow the troubleshooting diagnostic tree. This is way too complicated for the moron in the hayfield method. They might even have it on goldwing docs! You have at least 3 computers and two relay banks, fuse links, routing switches, etc etc.

Excuse me, “moron in the hayfield”? If that was directed at me, you have no idea who I am or what I know about this motorcycle’s electrical system. I have 16 years experience troubleshooting and repairing 1800 wings. I’ve walked people through troubleshooting and repairs over the internet many times. The troubleshooting diagnostic trees in the Honda service manual are ridiculous and spend way too much time checking things that don’t need to be checked if you know how the system works together.

[wl.edwards]

Moron in the hayfield refers to just checking components without knowing why or where in the line of succession they are. This electrical system is quite complex and branches into many sub sections inter dependent on each other. Without the proper troubleshooting technique you are basically hoping instead of knowing. Since there is a very successful method to KNOW what you are doing, not using it would be...?

I don't care what you do. Its your bike. But...you asked for help and the proper troubleshooting technique is the only right answer. All else is anecdotal conjecture. Life is too short, buddy.

[Techdude2000]

Moron in the hayfield refers to just checking components without knowing why or where in the line of succession they are. This electrical system is quite complex and branches into many sub sections inter dependent on each other. Without the proper troubleshooting technique you are basically hoping instead of knowing. Since there is a very successful method to KNOW what you are doing, not using it would be...?

I don't care what you do. Its your bike. But...you asked for help and the proper troubleshooting technique is the only right answer. All else is anecdotal conjecture. Life is too short, buddy.

It’s not my bike, I’m not the OP, but I do know this bike’s system inside and out and simple checks can lead directly to the culprit. There’s only one circuit on this bike that’s not working correctly. Most of the system is functioning correctly or the engine and lighting system wouldn’t be working. The things that are not working all have the accessory power circuit and possibly the backup memory circuit in common. Just for reference, I have been working in electronics since 1983.

[wl.edwards]

Yet you recommend not following the proper troubleshooting procedure. By the way, i was working on aerospace electronics since the vacuum tube days, but I'm not trying to start a pissing contest. You can take all the offense you like, its no sweat on my brow, but if you are so knowledgeable and experienced why do you assume instead of check, verify, repair? One more thing...Been riding bikes for nearly 56 years now. I don't own cars or trucks. I am a biker. It seems assumptions are more your thing than scientific method...no offense.

[Techdude2000]

Yet you recommend not following the proper troubleshooting procedure. By the way, i was working on aerospace electronics since the vacuum tube days, but I'm not trying to start a pissing contest. You can take all the offense you like, its no sweat on my brow, but if you are so knowledgeable and experienced why do you assume instead of check, verify, repair? One more thing...Been riding bikes for nearly 56 years now. I don't own cars or trucks. I am a biker. It seems assumptions are more your thing than scientific method...no offense.

I didn’t recommend not following the procedure, my checks will lead him to the culprit faster than following the long drawn out procedures in the manual. The Nav Unit, Audio Unit, turn signals, all require power from the accessory relay. The audio unit, nav unit, and the trunk lock control unit all require power from the fuse labeled “battery” as well. Checking for power on these two circuits will help point to the possible culprit. No assumptions being used just factual experience with this electrical system. If his clock maintains the correct time with the key off, then the “battery” fuse is good and doesn’t need to be checked. There is a reverse polarity protection diode inside the audio unit and its possibly blown. If it shorted, then the circuit supplying it will keep blowing its fuse, if the diode opened then it could have blown a fuse and still work once the fuse is replaced. A voltmeter probing the correct place will eliminate this possibility quickly. If the power is good on these two circuits and the accessory relay is energizing when the key is turned on, then there’s more serious damage done.

[Toy3zve]

@Techdude2000, I just checked the BATTERY fuse and it's good. I think this path is leading me to a trip to the stealership, where I know it's probably going to cost me a thousand dollars...

Thank you very much for your suggestions though. I appreciate it, as well as the suggestions from everyone else. Thank you all.

[Techdude2000]

@Techdude2000, I just checked the BATTERY fuse and it's good. I think this path is leading me to a trip to the stealership, where I know it's probably going to cost me a thousand dollars...

Thank you very much for your suggestions though. I appreciate it, as well as the suggestions from everyone else. Thank you all.

Can you pull the accessory relay out and probe its socket pins for power with the key on? Use the battery negative post for ground. You should see power on 2 of them, 1 light green wire and 1 light green/black wire. Make sure you have the correct relay, it’s the second one from the left(rider perspective) on the front/gray socket row. Trying to save you from the dealer pain...