Handle bar control troubles...

[Big Bob]

So I have posted about the small light bulbs that are all burned out on my handle bar control, on the throttle side, clutch side all work, now the cruise control button is not setting either. It hasn't worked for over a week, okay because I have only drove it 9miles to work and back. So today I sprayed a lot of contact cleaner around the button worked the button numerous times, and immediately it didn't work until I tried it over 20 times while riding and then it tried working, and finally worked. But alas it would also shut itself off, seems a bump on the road is enough to trigger that, kinda strange. Anyways, I'm starting to think about replacing the entire control, not cheap, but start with all new.... I just think I might be heading down a road of more problems. Thoughts appreciated!!

Bob

[Viking]

Before you replace the entire right control system, do again with the spray what you have already done, completely. If that doesn't fix it, then replace if that is your desire, but sometimes one spray session doesn't get the gunk out. Taking it apart and cleaning it is a better way, but beware the tiny springs and other parts that fall out and into the most impossible finding spots. Good luck with whatever you decide.

(PS: when I sprayed mine, last year, it was still iffy, but this year it has been working perfectly again)

[tamathumper]

Are you saying a bump in the road makes the cruise switch actually pop out, or that it just cancels the cruise function? If the switch stays in, but cruise gets canceled, that may be due to a bad bushing in your brake or clutch lever.

If you can get it working reliably in the "ON" position, just leave it on.

[GoldWingrGreg]

As you discovered, hitting buttons a hundred times will help free them up. Spraying them from the outside will do nothing. Most who think it does are not realizing that it multiple operations of the button that is cleaning off the oxidization that is helping.

However, it should like you have a lever problem. For best results your front levers need removed, cleaned, inspected, and lubed. Any worn parts need replaced. If you have non-OEM levers, they need replaced with OEM ones. The key to all the above, is the inspection. A poor inspection, and not knowing what to look for, lubing and reassembly may yield the same results.

[Big Bob]

tamathumper the cruise on button I leave in the on position constantly, so when riding I can just turn the cruise on. I didn't think about the bushings,, I had problems with my 1500 bushings also.. With working FT, and taking care of our home and a cabin property it leaves little time to play mechanic, and that's on 2 motorcycles. So sadly I look for quick easy fixes. I will try another spray session around the switch (cruise set) button too. Thanks for the tips, and anymore always welcome!!

Bob

[Snowmoer]

For these switches, spay cleaner is just a quick fix and does not last as you found out. To do it right, you need to take the switch apart, clean out all the old Dialectic grease, clean the contacts, and put in new Dialectic grease. Just be careful, there is a small spring in there that you need to keep track of. Over time, the old grease gets sticky and the contacts get oxidized like Greg said. When I cleaned the switches on my 1500, the contacts were green. A good cleaning and new grease, they were smooth as butter and like new again. Much cheaper than new switches.

[Big Bob]

I wish you could find a good YouTube video or a link somewhere on the dis- assembly of the switches, would help, because I would be the lucky one to have tiny pieces and parts go flying!!

Bob

[tamathumper]

Go to Wal*Mart and buy a small box of medium-sized (13-gal) clear garbage bags.

Put the switch inside the bag, and reach in with both hands to disassemble it.

Any flying parts will probably stay inside the bag.

[fibersport]

I just got my 1800 last Friday and spent Saturday taking apart both switch pods. It is time consuming and my thumb and index finger tips hurt for days but now everything works fine. I didn't even know my hi/lo switch was gummed up too, and I thought I needed 3 new headlights! For the pushbutton switches I too them apart and cleaned out the 19 year old grease and put in some Lubriplate. For the rocker switches, I just sprayed in some WD-40 and or brake clean and followed that up with some lithium spray grease. As I said, all are working fine now although I would like to take them apart over the winter and use a better grease.

[GoldWingrGreg]

So I have posted about the small light bulbs that are all burned out on my handle bar control, on the throttle side, clutch side all work, now the cruise control button is not setting either. It hasn't worked for over a week, okay because I have only drove it 9miles to work and back. So today I sprayed a lot of contact cleaner around the button worked the button numerous times, and immediately it didn't work until I tried it over 20 times while riding and then it tried working, and finally worked. But alas it would also shut itself off, seems a bump on the road is enough to trigger that, kinda strange. Anyways, I'm starting to think about replacing the entire control, not cheap, but start with all new.... I just think I might be heading down a road of more problems. Thoughts appreciated!!

Bob

I'd say your Wing has been heading down a road of more problems for a while. Let me explain. Usually when a Wing come to me for service, I can instantly tell how well it has been maintained by pulling in the clutch, the front brake lever, and twisting the throttle. Basically, all I've done is pulled in the clutch, pulled on the from brake lever, and grabbed the throttle to start a Wing. If I feel roughness, noise, or excessive up/down movement in the clutch, and/or brake lever, and excessive play in the throttle, it really means it is just that ... poorly serviced levers and throttle. However, in almost all cases, it really represents how the rest of a Wing has been maintained. All 3 of those items are part of an 8,000 miles service that is needed every 8,000 miles. If you check your Maintenance Schedule in the Owner's Manual, you will see that the brake system, clutch system, and throttle operation needs inspected every 8k. Most think inspecting the brake system is looking at brake pad wear ... how wrong that is. Most important is a rider having proper control over those systems. For example, who cares if the a/c system in my car works fine, if I have a fan switch that does not turn the fan on !!! The inspection always starts with the controls.

Your c/c probably quits because one of your levers is worn to the point where is wiggles and kicks the c/c off when going over bumps. Yes, your kill switch assembly needs replaced too. If you tap on the kill switch, or grab it with your fingers, and rock the switch forward and back, or side to side, and it kills the engine, that switch is probably bad too. It should only kill the engine if it is rotated to either off position.

Many 5th gens Wing are very poorly maintained. At best they get infrequent clutch, brake, and air filter changes. Most get oil and filter changes, brakes and tires when needed, and a battery when it's dead. A well maintained Wing requires far more.

[wingpilot08]

BigBob, since you have had the issue in your 1500, it could also be as simple as replacing the brass bushing in the left clutch lever. If worn, the cancel switch is not fully engaged or will cause the CC to disengage when you hit a bump. I had this issue on my 1500 and I have just purchased a bushing just in case for the 1800...Part number below:


honda part number BUSH 22885-MB0-006 $11.33

https://www.hondapartshouse.com/oempart ... r-cylinder