OEM Battery Life?

[BFowler]

I searched the site and did not find an answer to my concern. I have a 2013 F6B that was first put on the road (by me) in September of 2014. The bike now has nearly 60k on it, which includes several trips of 2.5k or more. I've never had a problem with the battery and I don't often use a battery tender. I'm about to embark on another trip, 3k or so, and I'm wondering if I should be concerned about the battery. Opinions?

[MikeB]

If you are concerned with the longevity of the battery, replace it. Replacing it in the convenience of your own home is far superior to any alternative.
There are those that replace after three years. Others that do not replace it until it dies. I've gotten as many as nine years from an OEM battery and seven years from and Interstate battery. But no two batteries are the same. You really need to do what makes you comfortable.

[mterraci]

I'd replace it. Cheap insurance and peace of mind.

[DenverWinger]

Although batteries are easily obtainable, it isn't so easy when it decides to give out at your stop to stretch your legs somewhere 30 miles from town.

[Asphaltmaniac]

I'd replace it. Cheap insurance and peace of mind.

Replacement OEM battery from Amazon is very reasonable. Peace of mind is priceless.

[WingAdmin]

I'd definitely recommend an AGM battery.

I'm on my third year with my Motobatt, and it's performing like brand new. Here's the one for the F6B/1800: https://www.amazon.com/MotoBatt-MBTX20U ... B003YI1BQ2

[Andy Cote]

Another or possible additional option is carrying a backup: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=62639

Good news is the jumper can also be used to help another rider or power a phone, etc.

[BFowler]

Thank you, gentlemen, one and all, for your suggestions and recommendations. I've become a little spoiled in the last decades thanks to the improvements in battery technology, getting lots of years on my sport bikes, but I felt like I was pushing my luck when far from home with a seven year old battery. I'll replace it and perhaps use the old battery as an excuse to get back into flying my model airplanes!

[GoldWingrGreg]

Somewhere in a Honda Service Manual or Owner's Manual it says to replace the battery every 2-3 years. Which also might be why there is nothing in their Maintenance Schedule saying they ever need testing. My advice, be sure to get another Yuasa, and the one called for by Honda, and replace it every 2-3 years.

[browndogg]

There was 11 years on my 09 which I replaced this summer just for peace of mind.It was always on a battery tender in the off season.

[Big Bob]

OEM (Yuasa) or an AGM and using a battery tender I replace either one at 5 years, in MN that seems to be the life expectancy for a Goldwing battery. Good luck!!

Bob

[C-dub]

Mine is now at least 3.5 years old since I have a 2016 that we purchased in 2017. There is over 32k miles on it now after our recent trip. I'll ask about it and probably have them replace it when I get it in for that 32k service in a week or two. I haven't had any issues with it, but after reading this thread I don't want to get stranded somewhere. These batteries are not as easily picked up at any ole autozone or pepboy's.

[WingAdmin]

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[C-dub]

Okay, I'm liking the idea of this battery tender jr. thing. I'm also liking it for my cages, but with a few options for different outputs, (0.75, 0.8, and 1.25 amps) I'm wondering which would be better/easier on the batteries. I would think the 0.75 amp would be best and safest for long term, no?

[Mecurbster]

2014 with 80,0000 miles, still running original battery. I keep it on the Battery Tender ( 1.25 amp) all the time I'm not riding. The "fully charged" green light comes on within a minute or two after plugging in, even after running heated grips and heated jacket liner.

[WingAdmin]

Okay, I'm liking the idea of this battery tender jr. thing. I'm also liking it for my cages, but with a few options for different outputs, (0.75, 0.8, and 1.25 amps) I'm wondering which would be better/easier on the batteries. I would think the 0.75 amp would be best and safest for long term, no?

The amperage output is irrelevant for "safety". The battery will only pull the current that it is capable of pulling. You could put a 40 amp charger on there, and if the battery could only pull 0.5 amps, that's what it would pull.

To a point, anyway. The faster you charge the battery over a certain rate, the harder it is on the battery.

If the battery is discharged, having a higher amperage charger will charge it back up FASTER, but that's pretty much the only advantage.

[SlowTyper]

While a new battery may give you piece of mind, there's a chance that cure could be worse than the disease. When batteries wear out, they usually just give you less and less cranking time -- until there's not enough to start the bike on a cold morning. But batteries can also fail due to a manufacturing defect. These usually fail without warning while the battery is still relatively new. In your scenario, I would turn off the run switch and see if the battery can still crank the engine quickly for 10 seconds or so. If so, I would continue using the existing battery rather than risk a new battery that might fail prematurely. In any case, I try to park my bike where it would not be too difficult to push start to ride to a battery store.

[MikeB]

In your scenario, I would turn off the run switch and see if the battery can still crank the engine quickly for 10 seconds or so.

I don't think this is possible with any Gold Wing manufactured after 1997. 1998 and newer Wing's will not crank in the stop position.
I think a better test of a battery would be to load test it with an appropriate piece of test equipment.

While your logic that "there's a chance that cure could be worse than the disease" is sound enough, the reality is a freshly manufactured wear item will more than likely last longer than the part that is presently in place. Personally, if I replace an item prior to a trip, I attempt to get it done a few months prior to the trip. Tires, batteries, spark plugs, brake components and air filters all come to mind. The advance replacement gives a person time to evaluate both the item replaced for worthiness as as well as the quality of the work performed.

[mweddy@gmail.com]

I always take my Micro Start with me, so never worry about a battery failure.

[PastoT]

My bikes original battery last until about 2015 or 2016, my bike is an 02! I was blown away. My current battery running fine for 4+ years. I do carry an XP-5 battery jump system just in case, its handy for more that self rescue. I do use a battery tender in the winter but also ride pretty much year round. I understand the concern of battery, alternator, lights, etc health on a long trip but its never bit my behind by not replacing something just because it was old. I spend more concern on starting with serviceable tires and fresh oil.

[mweddy@gmail.com]

Back in the day, when I worked for Oldsmobile, and I mean back about 40 years ago, I used to drive Oldsmobile diesels, mostly because they could be had for cheap. They had two batteries because the glow plugs and starter could draw upwards of 700 amps. I had bought a couple of batteries for my Delta 88 from Price Club, (now Costco), and when they failed, I was really pissed. Until I discovered that they were 12 years old. Point of my story is old doesn't mean imminent failure.

[tamathumper]

In your scenario, I would turn off the run switch and see if the battery can still crank the engine quickly for 10 seconds or so.

I don't think this is possible with any Gold Wing manufactured after 1997. 1998 and newer Wing's will not crank in the stop position.
I think a better test of a battery would be to load test it with an appropriate piece of test equipment.

While your logic that "there's a chance that cure could be worse than the disease" is sound enough, the reality is a freshly manufactured wear item will more than likely last longer than the part that is presently in place. Personally, if I replace an item prior to a trip, I attempt to get it done a few months prior to the trip. Tires, batteries, spark plugs, brake components and air filters all come to mind. The advance replacement gives a person time to evaluate both the item replaced for worthiness as as well as the quality of the work performed.

Swapping in new parts a month or more in advance is good advice. Can't tell you how many times someone would swap in a new water pump or DME relay on a Porsche "just because it's been a while", and have that new unit fail within a few hundred or thousand miles. Happened to me, actually, with a water pump. Original one had 60K on it, and was working fine. Me thinking I'm being a good little doobie swaps it out prophylactically, and a few weeks later I'm getting towed out of the parking lot at work, with a big long car pee stain running down the asphalt.