Gl1800 coolant tank removal

[1985GL1200]

I just acquired a 2005 GL1800 and the coolant tank has been banged up and is leaking out of the bottom. How the heck do I remove the coolant tank? Shy of pulling the engine I can't figure it out. HELP!!!

[MikeB]

I am pretty sure it is wedged in place and held inplace by one screw. It comes out the bottom of the frame.

[tfdeputydawg]

1 10mm bolt on the bottom, drop the tank down to remove 2 hoses attached to the top and it's out.

[Ghostman]

Just be careful of the fittings at the top when taking out the bottle also. When you replace it you might think of making a shield for the botom of it.. I made an aluminum shield for mine a long time ago and Im surprised at the marks on it from the road I find.

[1985GL1200]

Thanks for the information guys, I suspected it had to come out the bottom but wasn't sure about what there was for hoses attached. I have the new tank ordered, and yes after looking at it there will definitely be a skid plate put under it. I do have to say that this is not a design Honda should be very proud of. I've called their design engineers some pretty ugly names in the last 24 hrs. Again thanks I appreciate the help.

[M61A1MECH]

Oh changing or removing that coolant recovery bottle is child's play when compared to changing the air filter. Tha is when the name calling really starts.

Yes a full belly pan is a must for these bikes, would not ride mine without one.

[1985GL1200]

Yeah, I was looking for the air filter, I followed the air intake and it disappeared under a whole pile of electronics and plastic. They should be very proud of their designs on most everything I've found so far. I'm a firm believer in, engineers should have to work on what ever they design, I'll bet it would change things.

[M61A1MECH]

Yeah, I was looking for the air filter, I followed the air intake and it disappeared under a whole pile of electronics and plastic. They should be very proud of their designs on most everything I've found so far. I'm a firm believer in, engineers should have to work on what ever they design, I'll bet it would change things.

When I ran the R&D test lab for a connector company that made products for the subsea oil and gas companies, all the new engineers young and old were required to spend at least a week in my lab working with the techs, we managed to avoid a lot of issues by giving the engineers a quick crash course. The benefits that week paid were huge.

[DenverWinger]

Regardless of how serviceable a Goldwing is, ya gotta be impressed how they essentially packed the equivalent of a six-cylinder automobile engine and transmission with complete fuel injection system and all the associated junk like air filters, anti-lock braking systems, coolant recovery, alternator and battery, radiator and fans, plus all the black boxes and doodads to make it work, there's a fuel tank in there, too, nevermind the accessories you'd find in the dashboard of a car including stereo system, navigation computer and air bags. Plus enough storage to travel packing clothes, food and tools, cameras and laptop computers, all jammed into the inside of the tupperware of the narrow thing we call a motorcycle.

This is called Peeling an Onion.

EDIT: Good thing that Goldwings are reasonably reliable. Don't have to peel them very often.

[GoldWingrGreg]

The mount bolt is on the right side. There are 2 hoses attached. An overfill hose on the leftt side and a reservoir hose with a nipple that fits into the tube level hose on top of the reservoir. Be sure to inspect over fill hose. If not mounted correctly, it often get cooked from the exhaust or Ox sensor and will become hard, and sometimes their ends are broke off. As for the reservoir hose, it is best to remove the hose from under the radiator cap and check its ends for cracks. If any, be sure to replace both reservoir hoses (2 hoses with a nipple in between makes up their total length). Inspect the tub level hose where the nipple goes in for cracks too. To reinstall the overfill hose correctly and route both the overfill hoses for the fuel tank and the reservoir, I usually remove the small bracket at the back of the clutch cover to route them both correctly. On 2001-05s they need to route above and in front of the Ox sensor. They should never touch the exhaust or the Ox sensor. The hose bracket bolts gets retorqued to 108in/lbs. Parts 13, 14, 9, and 36 are often replaced from cracks.

[1985GL1200]

Thanks for all the advice, I really do appreciate all of it. Since I have been a member, I have always gotten great advice and guidance. Honestly I don't think my projects would go as smoothly as they do without it. I will always ride a goldwing of one sort or another, I've had 5 so far currently a 2005 GL1800 with a Roadsmith trike kit. Haven't had it a year yet, it's a whole different way of riding, but I think I like it. Cheers to another year of riding. My tank will be here tomorrow and I already have the rest of it back together. I live in South Dakota, just waiting for the weather to warm up now. Thanks guys.

[LARSONEM]

The coolant overflow tank is easy enough to get out as others have pointed out by removing one bolt and the hoses. Do yourself a favor and armor the new one. I had a piece of heavy sheet metal that I cut with tin snips. I bonded the plates on the overflow tank with construction adhesive. It’s worked like a champ to protect a tank that should have been armored from the start.

As for the air cleaner, I too have cursed Honda engineers for several years now regarding the air cleaner location. I replace two GL1800 air cleaners annually; mine and my wife’s bike. I don’t do it because they are real dirty, just like to know nothing has taken up residence in the air box after 5 plus months of winter storage. I figure for the cost (they are cheaper online than from my local dealer) I might as well replace it rather than just inspect it for the effort it takes to get to it. I’ve done it so many times now I can do it in just a little over an hour. Long ago I made a template (drilled holes in a board) to hold all of the hex head screws so you can put them back in the correct location quickly. It always amazes me how much Honda packed into such a small area.

[tamathumper]

Buy yourself a $10 gooseneck camera, and you can snake it down the snorkels and inspect the air filter without having to tear apart the Tupperware monster.

https://www.amazon.com/Inspection-Endos ... 68&sr=8-18

Find This Item on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087722FPS?tag=goldwingdocs-20

[Terry D]

I can not believe the complaints about Honda's design for the air filter placement. For God's sake you buy a touring bike with all the bells and whistles and you want everything to be handy to get to. Be lucky they didn't put a fuel tank on top of the engine like the crotch rockets and the air filter needs to be on top of the intake. And it only make sense to put the electronics on top of that area where there is no fuel tank. Geesh!!

[collinsa]

Two things
Strongly recommend a two piece belly pan - the stainless steel ones take a lot of beating and protect more than just the overflow tank
The front section is held on with two aircraft screws and easily removed for oil and filter changes
A bolt through the bottom of the engine is a very ugly sight
I regularly service the Wings for six mates and have installed a belly pan on each bike

Secondly - it has been previously suggested on this site to use the mesh from old air filters to cover both air intake scoops.
It moulds easily to the cone and I hold mine on with copper wire although a cable tie would also work.
The mesh is fine enough so that keeps almost everything out of the air intake, without restricting airflow
Best thing is the material is free and to hand when you change a filter