need help getting the correct wiring

[ducktruck]

I have a 2005 Wing and it has the flat 4 wiring on it. I just picked up a trailer that has the flat 5 wiring. Need to know what to get to put on my bike to make everything happy.

Duck

[DenverWinger]

You need to follow the bike wiring back from the flat-4 plug, you should find a 5-to-4 converter box. Get a flat-5 plug for the bike, all the signals you need will be found on the wires going to the INPUT side of the 5-to-4 converter.

[Rambozo]

Do you have electric brakes on the trailer? If so you will need to add a brake controller and use the five pin plug.
If not, I would just rewire the trailer to suit the bike. But you could just use this.
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-47515-Wi ... B000CMHVGM
Be sure to check things as bike trailers are not very standard and neither is the flat five plug. They can do strange things with the extra wire.

[tamathumper]

Rambozo has a good point, I've seen that 5th wire be used for reverse lights, 12V battery charging, and electric brakes. There is no standard where previous owners are concerned.

[ducktruck]

No electric brakes. So I can just run up to Autozone and pick up a flat 5 and remove the converter out and I should be good to go as long as I wire it correctly, which should not be any problem.

[M61A1MECH]

No electric brakes. So I can just run up to Autozone and pick up a flat 5 and remove the converter out and I should be good to go as long as I wire it correctly, which should not be any problem.

In my opinion it is never a good idea to wire a trailer directly to the bike's wiring. Two reasons, 1) the wires in the bike are a very small gauge and do not have a lot of extra amperage carrying capacity that may be required to run the trailer lights. 2) if the trailer has a short circuit and blows a fuse you will lose your bike lights, never a good idea.
I always recommend using an isolator between the bike and the trailer.

I will send you a PM with additional information.

[Rambozo]

Again, it all depends on how your trailer is wired up. Figure that part out first. I wouldn't even depend on what the manufacturer says, as the PO could have done anything.
Trace out the wiring and lights and see if you have combined Turn/Stop or independent. Then you can decide how you want to proceed. Also a good time to think about LED lighting if you have incandescent. Most trailer wiring I've seen is a horror show so often it is easier to just start over.
Having a trailer isolator is always a good thing.

[Terry D]

I replaced all my rear stop and run lights on the rear with LEDs and that saved a bunch of amperage draw. If I was to add a trailer, I would make sure all lights were LEDs. In that way the trailer and bike lighting draw on the bike's wiring will still be lower than when stock. My six stop/tail lights drew 21/5W each for a total of 126/30W or in amps 10.5/.5 and now with the Sylvania 7443R they draw .20/.04W each or 1.2/.24W. That is less than 1 amp. So the result is brighter stop and tail lights and a huge savings on the alternator and wiring.