need help getting the correct wiring


Information and questions on GL1800 Goldwings (2001-2017)
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ducktruck
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2011 9:50 pm
Location: Columbus GA
Motorcycle: 1972 Kawasaki 90 (Got it new in 72)
2005 GL 1800

need help getting the correct wiring

Post by ducktruck »



I have a 2005 Wing and it has the flat 4 wiring on it. I just picked up a trailer that has the flat 5 wiring. Need to know what to get to put on my bike to make everything happy.

Duck


Duck
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DenverWinger
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Re: need help getting the correct wiring

Post by DenverWinger »

You need to follow the bike wiring back from the flat-4 plug, you should find a 5-to-4 converter box. Get a flat-5 plug for the bike, all the signals you need will be found on the wires going to the INPUT side of the 5-to-4 converter.
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Rambozo
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Re: need help getting the correct wiring

Post by Rambozo »

Do you have electric brakes on the trailer? If so you will need to add a brake controller and use the five pin plug.
If not, I would just rewire the trailer to suit the bike. But you could just use this.
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-47515-Wi ... B000CMHVGM
Be sure to check things as bike trailers are not very standard and neither is the flat five plug. They can do strange things with the extra wire.
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tamathumper
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Re: need help getting the correct wiring

Post by tamathumper »

Rambozo has a good point, I've seen that 5th wire be used for reverse lights, 12V battery charging, and electric brakes. There is no standard where previous owners are concerned.
'03 GL1800A - Warning: fopen() [function.fopen]: failed to open stream: Sense of humor not found on line 2
ducktruck
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2011 9:50 pm
Location: Columbus GA
Motorcycle: 1972 Kawasaki 90 (Got it new in 72)
2005 GL 1800

Re: need help getting the correct wiring

Post by ducktruck »

No electric brakes. So I can just run up to Autozone and pick up a flat 5 and remove the converter out and I should be good to go as long as I wire it correctly, which should not be any problem.
Duck
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M61A1MECH
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Location: Edgewater, Florida
Motorcycle: 2013 Goldwing

Re: need help getting the correct wiring

Post by M61A1MECH »

ducktruck wrote: Thu Apr 29, 2021 5:54 pm No electric brakes. So I can just run up to Autozone and pick up a flat 5 and remove the converter out and I should be good to go as long as I wire it correctly, which should not be any problem.
In my opinion it is never a good idea to wire a trailer directly to the bike's wiring. Two reasons, 1) the wires in the bike are a very small gauge and do not have a lot of extra amperage carrying capacity that may be required to run the trailer lights. 2) if the trailer has a short circuit and blows a fuse you will lose your bike lights, never a good idea.
I always recommend using an isolator between the bike and the trailer.

I will send you a PM with additional information.
Steve K
Edgewater, FL

And the Lord said. "Thou shalt have dominion over all of the animals, except of course the cat."
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Rambozo
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Re: need help getting the correct wiring

Post by Rambozo »

Again, it all depends on how your trailer is wired up. Figure that part out first. I wouldn't even depend on what the manufacturer says, as the PO could have done anything.
Trace out the wiring and lights and see if you have combined Turn/Stop or independent. Then you can decide how you want to proceed. Also a good time to think about LED lighting if you have incandescent. Most trailer wiring I've seen is a horror show so often it is easier to just start over.
Having a trailer isolator is always a good thing.
Terry D
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Motorcycle: 2005 Honda GL1800

Re: need help getting the correct wiring

Post by Terry D »

I replaced all my rear stop and run lights on the rear with LEDs and that saved a bunch of amperage draw. If I was to add a trailer, I would make sure all lights were LEDs. In that way the trailer and bike lighting draw on the bike's wiring will still be lower than when stock. My six stop/tail lights drew 21/5W each for a total of 126/30W or in amps 10.5/.5 and now with the Sylvania 7443R they draw .20/.04W each or 1.2/.24W. That is less than 1 amp. So the result is brighter stop and tail lights and a huge savings on the alternator and wiring.


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