To do or NOT to do...

[tj5iveo]

Have '16 GL1800. Bought in the box in '19. Has 16,500 miles on it. Usually do most of my maintenance like oil, brakes, fluids, etc. I looked at maintenance schedule and says i should replace air filter i have looked at lots of videos and am a tad apprehensive about attempting the change. On an earlier wing, it went in for a brake recall and had the dealer do it but it wasnt even close to 16,500 miles, It was way over and i had no issues that i am aware of.

Has anyone tried this? And if so, is it worth changing at this mileage? I know the dealer is going to charge me some $$$. Perhaps I should wait for another scheduled maintenance issue and just have them do it then.

And lastly, I have done brakes before on other wings. Had to have someone help me with the bleeding but other than that, no real issues.

Any, all comments, ideas, thoughts, would be greatly appreciated.

Thanx and ride safe...

TJ

[MikeB]

It all depends on where you ride and how dusty it is in your area.

I just replaced the filter on my 2017 with 32,000 miles on it. I live in Washington and ride all over the state and down into Oregon and California, highway and secondary roads.

Here's what the new and old filters look like for comparison.

[tj5iveo]

thank you, that helps alot...

[Andy Cote]

The air filter is always talked about as a challenge. It is, while time consuming and has many fasteners, not really that big a deal if you are comfortable with common tools. There are videos and tutorials available.

If you are concerned, you could call around to dealers. I remember last year someone posted a dealer offering a very reasonable price. Be aware that the price may be higher if you have accessories added to the bike.

Regarding brakes, fairly easy to change pads and fluid. If you don't have a helper to bleed the brakes, either a vacuum bleeder attached to bleed valves or replace bleed valves with Speed Bleeders. Most important is to follow the proper sequence.

[browndogg]

Run it to 32,000 like Mike B did

[GoldWingrGreg]

5th gens are extreemly expensive to properly maintain, and by far the cheepest way to maintain one is by following the Maintanence Schedule.

Basically that means that your air filter is being changed late, and probably the clutch and brake fluid too. Be sure to do all the inspections on the Maintence Schedule too.

[diecast collector]

Unless you are doing lots of off road riding I would leave it be for another 15-20,000 miles.
diecast collector

[chasbutt]

Echoing what others have said, the air filter is time consuming but not difficult in my opinion. Just keep track of parts and take photos along the way if you’re concerned about remembering how things go back together. As for the brakes, definitely consider getting Speed Bleeders. They make the job MUCH easier. And be sure to get the full set including the one for the clutch. Not sure where the bleed valve is on the 2016 but on the 1st Gen 1800, it’s in a PITA location and a Speed Bleeder is a huge help.

[collinsa]

I look after my own Wing plus five other Wings for friends and have done many air filters on each bike
Up to the fifth or sixth filter on my own 2005 GL1800 - lost count.

On my 2005 the fasteners for the centre console vary in size, length and shank so I punch holes in a piece of cardboard and push each fastener through in the position from which it was removed

While it is a fiddly job it is not impossible if you take your time
Importantly you will have to disconnect a series of cables - but not all

Once you have unscrewed the filter cover you will work out what needs to be disconnected and what can be left attached while you move the cover to one side.
The ones to the ECU etc are easy to sort as they are different sizes and will not fit anywhere else.
However there are some that if you do not clearly label they will sneak away into the interior and hide.
On My 2005 it is the radio aerial that does a runner every time.

Take care with the airbag and remember to totally disconnect the battery and leave it for a few minutes for the airbag circuit to fully discharge

There are online manuals for reassurance or if you get a bit lost midway

If you are a half competent on the tools all it will cost you is some time
Take it slow and steady - especially reassembling because there is nothing worse than discovering you gave not reconnected a cable and have to remove the whole centre panel and start again.

While you are inside clean the airbox as there will be a small build up of oil.
Also clean the inlets from the airbox into the manifolds but BE VERY CAREFUL not to drop anything in there.
I always plug the inlets with rags when I am working in this region.

Have fun.

[collinsa]

Clutch bleeder is located behind the lower cowling, midline of the bike
Look carefully as it hides behind some piping / cabling etc.

[collinsa]

Not sure if the sequence is the same for the 2016 but for the 2005 you do it as follows;

1. using front brake lever - front right upper caliper nipple
2. using front brake lever - front left caliper lower nipple
3. Rear brake pedal - front left caliper upper nipple
4. ditto. - front right caliper lower nipple
5. ditto - rear caliper lower nipple
6. ditto - Anti dive plunger
7. ditto. - Rear caliper upper nipple

I change the brake and clutch fluid once a year - flushing plenty though until the discharge is crystal clear and not cloudy
a 250ml bottle is plenty to flush and then top up with new fluid.

I use a 50ml spring and plastic tubes to remove the old fluid from the master cylinder and replace with new fluid.
Flushing is much quicker this way.

To clean the pistons
Carefully expel the brake pistons out to where they were with the old pads
put a bit of brake fluid on some thing strong nylon twine and
put this around the piston and work it back and forward to remove any build up
carefully wipe each piston clean to remove the dirt and brake fluid.
gently push back into the caliper

This will then remove any dirt and avoid damaging the top/outer seal on each piston when they are pushed further into the caliper with new pads.

I recently rebuilt front and rear brakes on a 2016 GL1800 that a friend bought
It had not been serviced regularly and the brake fluid was like custard. I had to completely dismantle each caliper and replace the seals.
Fortunately the bore and pistons in each caliper were still ok.

Brake pads
Always replace left and right front at the same time

Hope this helps

[california3201]

I just completed my air filter change on a 2008 airbag model. My suggestion, watch as many videos as you need to. If possible record your progress so you can remember how things go back and go for it.

[Terryd234]

Changing the air filter is kinda tedious but manageable. having good quality and a variety of metric allen wrenches, with a rachet driver helps a ton, too. I found always putting the bolts back in the holes after removal of any part, so you keep the right bolt in the right hole, and the reassembly goes perfect. You can wait a while longer. I did mine at 17500 miles and it was still fairly clean. Go slow, give yourself enough time with no distractions and it will be fine.

[dc8cappie]

I have the 2018 GL1800 DCT wing. Did the 48,000 service. Did 3 year anti-freeze change, air filter with 24,000, brake fluid and rear differential change. Awaiting front brake pads as the outer pads are worn beyond indicator again. Started at 10:00am and finished at 7:00pm.

[Asphaltmaniac]

Do it a few times and it will get easier..Remember quality before speed.

One big caution. You see the black wells under the handlebars on either side of the top shelter.
Take your time reassembling make sure they have no gaps. If the plastics dont go together
smoothly some thing is wrong.

[2018 Goldwing Tour]

hi….I have a 2006….i’ve only changed my air filter once since I don’t have alot of miles on mine…probably going to change it this spring…but, the first time I did it, it took me 4 hours….I used an old egg carton to put fasteners in and made labels so I knew where they go…like others have said, pay attention to what connections you’ve taken apart…maybe even document each one and cross off as you reinstall…most important, take your time…put some music on, get a cold drink and work away….it’s not really difficult, just time consuming….good luck, ride safe !!

Scott

[watkipk]

I changed my this past winter. Realized should know where you store your Wing and the surroundings. As you can see most of my air filter was covered with insulation. That had to happen a couple of years ago before I got my garage. Changing your air filter isn't fun but a must do.

[Grab2366]

If I can do it almost anyone can. I have a 2018 Tour, manual. I purchased Cruisemans Garage maintenance videos and one air filter change paid for the videos. I have also started doing full maintenance on a 2016 F6B..

[Drair]

I’d suggest you do both the AF changeout and brake fluid change yourself. I just resign myself to an afternoon of being in my shop and it can even almost be rewarding, if not relaxing. At $90-$120/dealer shop-hour you WILL save some money. I have the Honda shop manual and go by it, page by page, item by item.

The AF job is more tedious than difficult and as others have said, you can also watch videos online re: how to do it. You might find an AF like Paul Watkins pictured (I did, on a used bike I bought), and so I installed hardware cloth to cover both air inlets to the AF housing. Doing it yourself allows you to get to know your bike quite a bit better, becoming familiar with other stuff under all the Tupperware and allowing you to personally inspect wires, connectors, frame, hoses, etc. If your cruise control engagement isn’t smooth this is the time to very easily correct that, too.

[Goldwinger15]

Air filter is not a complicated job. Time consuming and requires your full attention and it can be done by any owner.
I did mine on my 15 Airbag Model a few months ago and found the most helpful thing was the use of cardboard, can't mix up bolts then. A place for everything and everything in it's place.
There are some very helpful write ups on the procedure online too.
Regardless of the money, I wouldn't trust anyone to do the job of working on my bikes as carefully as I would do them myself, so as previously mentioned by others, spend a day bonding with your wing.
Spend the saved money on a FSM or a new accessory.

[collinsa]

One other tip I got from Goldwings Docs many years ago
Use the two meshes from your old air filter to cover the ends of the two intake tubes
One mesh is slight different and a larger grid then the other but it does not matter
The mesh folds easily around the intake and I use silicon (rubber weld) tape to hold it in place and cover the wire ends
It trims easily with tin snips

It will stop almost anything from getting into the airbox.

[Goldwinger15]

One other tip I got from Goldwings Docs many years ago
Use the two meshes from your old air filter to cover the ends of the two intake tubes
One mesh is slight different and a larger grid then the other but it does not matter
The mesh folds easily around the intake and I use silicon (rubber weld) tape to hold it in place and cover the wire ends
It trims easily with tin snips

It will stop almost anything from getting into the airbox.

Must remember that for next time.
Good tip

[Boondoc88@gmail.com]

Personally I wouldn't do it.
I'm pretty handy and do most regular maintenance myself but after watching a few videos I opted not to do the air filter or the brakes on my 2012 GL 1800.
I actually started to do the air filter swap but after what seemed like forever of disassembling body panels each with a different length and width fastener, I was getting lost and I figured I'd quit while I was ahead. I wasn't even close to getting it done. As for the brakes after watching and listening to my mechanic as he replaced my brake fluid it was also something I opted not to do.
Not to say it can't be done but he was using specialized equipment and had very specific things to say about precisely how and in what order everything had to be done.
I have him service my K&N air filter, radiator, clutch, and brake fluid every 25,000 miles.
Although I love to do most things myself and consider myself a handy guy some jobs are just too frustrating or require special tools that I just won't use that often.
Everybody's got to make a living and I can process a few cords of firewood to pay for the service or do something else that requires doing efficiently in the time it would take me to do frustrating work that I don't enjoy doing.
I've come to realize that I don't enjoy nor do I have to do every single thing myself.
I certainly don't mind paying someone for a job well done and the peace of mind that comes with knowing that it was done correctly (especially the brakes), and that it doesn't have to be done again for a long while gives me great satisfaction.

[DenverWinger]

My '93 had 43K miles when I bought it so presumably the air filter is original. I looked at it shortly after buying the bike, it looked like the dirty filter in Mike B's photo.

I held it up to the sun, and although dirty on the tops of the ridges like this one plenty of light was passing thru inside the folds where it really matters. So I just put it back in the bike.

A couple yrs ago I had the shelter off at 57K miles to do other things and figured it would be worthwhile to inspect the air filter again since I was in that far. No change from first inspection, and I put the filter back in again.

These filters will last a really long time unless you are doing lots of miles on gravel roads, or Mr. Mouse decides to turn it into an apartment.

[bogdog]

'14 F6B. I did it at 23k miles, after watching a couple yt videos. Just took it step by step. I did manage to break one little plastic tab, but nothing major. Then when I finally got the old filter out it wasn't even that dirty.