Voltage is absent on several things

[Lee StClair]

The bike is a 2003 Goldwing. The left hand headlight has no voltage at the connector. Turn signals do not work. All fuses in the panel near the battery are good. The 100 amp fuse is good. There is a 70 amp fuse below it that has no voltage on either side. There are auxiliary terminals on the side of the fuse box and no voltage there either. Anybody have a clue what I'm missing? I don't have and cannot find a wiring diagram for this bike either . Help !

[Rambozo]

More than likely you have a bad connector. Check your headlight relays, and then the connectors in the faring.
Here is a topic that covers most of that with a wiring diagram.

viewtopic.php?p=383448

You might want to get a factory service manual, too. They really come in handy and can often be had pretty cheap on ebay.

[Techdude2000]

The bike is a 2003 Goldwing. The left hand headlight has no voltage at the connector. Turn signals do not work. All fuses in the panel near the battery are good. The 100 amp fuse is good. There is a 70 amp fuse below it that has no voltage on either side. There are auxiliary terminals on the side of the fuse box and no voltage there either. Anybody have a clue what I'm missing? I don't have and cannot find a wiring diagram for this bike either . Help !

Do the hazards work? Brake and tail lights?

[Lee StClair]

Tail lights work OK. Hazard lights do not.

[Techdude2000]

Tail lights work OK. Hazard lights do not.

Ok, does the radio work? Does the horn work? When you turn on the right or left turn signal, does the front position light go out on the side you select? The 70A fuse won’t have any power on it unless you are in reverse and backing up. It’s part of the reverse speed limiter circuit.

[Lee StClair]

The horn works and the radio works. There is no change in the indicator lights when the turn signals are on.

[Techdude2000]

The horn works and the radio works. There is no change in the indicator lights when the turn signals are on.

Ok, but the running/position light on the front of the mirror pods should be on with the key and turn off when you select the turn signal for that side. Did they do that?

[Lee StClair]

When the turn signals are turned on , the lights do not go off.

[Techdude2000]

When the turn signals are turned on , the lights do not go off.

Ok, so the turn signal cancel unit is dead as well. Let me look through the schematics and see what is common with these failures. I’ll be back soon.

[Techdude2000]

Ok, so there’s more than one power run missing on two different circuits. They really don’t have any thing in common. Both circuits have connectors under the fairing pockets on both sides and those are susceptible to corrosion due to rain dripping from the vent duct above them. You should pull both fairing pockets out and check all of the connectors in the white frames for corrosion. The left low beam circuit is the same as the right low beam except after it passes through the connector under the left fairing pocket, there’s a splice in the line that splits for both bulbs. Since the right one works, the wire or splice for the left side is suspect. You have to go up from the front wheel to reach those wires unless you pull the whole fairing off.

[Lee StClair]

Sure sounds logical alright. Once we get the new maintenance manual, we should be able to trace down the problems. I thank you for your expertise and I will post more here once I get started on the project. The bike has 100K on it so anything is possible.

[Techdude2000]

Sure sounds logical alright. Once we get the new maintenance manual, we should be able to trace down the problems. I thank you for your expertise and I will post more here once I get started on the project. The bike has 100K on it so anything is possible.

Good plan. If you have any questions once you get the manual, please ask. Just some nice to know stuff… The turn signal circuit is like no other due to the cancel unit that controls it. Be careful, it’s easy to fry the cancel unit during testing. The flasher relay on the 01-05 models is actually a circuit board amounted in the rear of the gauges and not a relay like the later years. There’s a relay hanging up front that is the position light relay and it’s a 5 pin and should to be left alone for your symptoms. The hazard switch sends a ground on one set of its contacts to the flasher board (PURPLE ARROW) and it connects the flashing power (RED ARROW) from the flasher board to the turn signal diode through its second set of contacts (YELLOW CIRCLE), which distributes it to both sides of the lights. In turn signal mode, the turn signal switch sends a ground to the cancel unit to activate it, once activated, it sends a ground to the flasher board turning it on. Another part of the turn signal switch routes the flashing power from the flasher board to the lights on whichever side you selected with the switch. At the same time, the same ground from the cancel unit goes through the position light diode to the coil of the position light relay, energizing it and opening it’s normally closed contacts. This removes power from the position/running light in the mirror pod on the side you selected. Another part of the turn signal switch keeps power on the opposite side’s position/running light to keep it on. We know the tail light power is good and this power is also what lights the position/running lights. The flasher board gets its power from the accessory relay and we know the accessory power is good, because your radio works. The cancel unit and the position light relay gets their power from the horn/turn relay and we know that power is good at the relay because your brake lights won’t turn on if it’s missing from the lever switch and pedal switch. Here’s some diagrams to help get you started.