2008 GL1800 will click but won't start

[Lcoles]

Greetings.

I have a 2008 GL1800. I replaced the battery about a year ago. I rode the bike three weeks ago and even used the reverse to back it in. I went to start the bike today (Monday), and everything lit up (F1, headlights, radio, etc.) when I turned on the ignition and selected run. When I press the starter, I hear a single click, but the bike does not start. (with the side-stand up and transition in neutral)

I checked the fuses, and none were blown. I put the battery on a pulse charger/repairer because it looks low (see below). I went ahead and ordered a battery, but if it is not the battery, can someone help me with what to check next? I have read a lot of posts about checking cables, but even after removing the battery box, I can only get to a (thick wire) connector on the positive terminal. I don't have the area to take the bike apart without paying for shop space overnight.

Here is the thing, I am scheduled to "Ride the Alps" on Thursday, so I am trying to get this fixed to save the ride !!!

[keithg64]

You need a new battery.

[tamathumper]

Check the simple things, like the kill switch, and the clutch switch.

Several times on my bike over the years the clutch switch has needed to be adjusted.

I don't remember if the bike would still "click" or not when it was in that mode, but it only takes a moment to check those things.

[GoldWingrGreg]

Be sure your reverse light is off and the 'N' light is on. The be sure that your battery connections are clean and tight.

[Lcoles]

Sooo, the answer was both battery and starter. With the bike on the center stand and in gear, we kicked down on the back tire several times (to force the transmission to turn the starter; similar to hitting the starter with something, as you would for a car) and the bike started. I then turned the bike off and back on several times and it started each time. I was advised that the bike could start 10 more times, but on the 11 go back to the click.

Prior to that, we tested the battery (see pic above) and connected a booster/charger to the bike. We tested the power to the relay, and the power after the relay as I pushed the starter button. Diagnosis: The starter seizes. Reco replace the starter and try to charge the battery. I am replacing the starter and the battery.

It took me two days, and several printouts of the manual (one or more references to other section(s)/page(s) to remove something). I really did not need to see my bike's intestines. Prayerfully, I will be able to install the starter (that's the easy part) and reassemble everything it took to get to the starter .

[Rambozo]

DO NOT use the bolts to pull the starter into place. Seat it fully by hand before running the bolts in.

[GoldWingrGreg]

As Rambozo said about the install.

The other important factor is to only use an OEM starter. Some of the aftermarket ones, when they fail, leave metal shaving in the engine, and a complete engine removal and teardown is then needed. If you need pictures, I'm sure I have them.

That leaves the issue of why the starter failed. Most OEM starters fail because one of the starter relays failed and caused it to continue running, thus frying the starter. To tell, remove those long assembly bolts at the back of the starter, and begin to serporate the rear portion of the starter. Does it stink like it was fried ??? In either case, and because an OEM starter is so expensive, and a lot of work goes into replacing it, be sure to replace both starter relays 'A', and 'B'. If you use anything other then getting OEM ones, they can be extreemly problematic, and occationally, fry the new starter. Here at JustWings, we would never replace a starter without new relays.

[Lcoles]

New OEM start arrived.

As I expected, replacing the starter was the easy part. The hard part is putting everything else back. The first hurdle is the Reverse Shift Arm. Can someone provide the tip/trick for moving the Arm Spring End over the Lost Motion Plate?

Once I put the Shift Arm Spring in place, and the Lost Motion plate, Pg 19-50 of the manual says to "Install the reverse shift arm and lost motion spring over the shaft and plate while hooking the spring ends properly as shown." (see image below). But how do I compress the shift arm spring once the shift arm spring end is in place so that there is tension pressing on the lost motion spring end and the lost motion plate end?

Pg-19-50

[GoldWingrGreg]

I begin to tighten the bolt that holds it all together. With the bolt still backed out maybe 1/8"+-, you'll find a sweet spot where its all still held togeather, not to tight or you'll never get the spring on, and not too loose. The tool I use to hook the spring into place is a small 90 deg pick.

Once the spring is in place, I then tighten and seat the bolt. I then back the bolt out, remove it and the washer, look in with a mirror to make sure everything under the bolt head looks correct, and only then do I put Hondalock on the bolt and install it and torque it to spec.

But here's the most important part. The greenish outer collar needs to free spin in the lost motion plate. Sometimes they are seized together. Once they free spin, their contact surfaces need lubed with MolyKote. Inspite of what the Service Manual says, with MolyKote, only lube the contact surface where the black plastic collar rotates on that other greenish part ... do not lube it's outer surface that rubs against the spring. The idea is that all parts there clean and dry except where stated above. Any exposed grease will attract road dirt.

Hopefully, before you removed your cables, you verified that your reverse cable turn-buckels are not seized.

Did you get new OEM starter relays 'A' and 'B' too ???

[Lcoles]

Thanks for the advice, that is awesome. I am going to try it this evening. I did not get the two relays.....yet. Second time I've seen that reco, so I am on it.

[GoldWingrGreg]

Thanks for the advice, that is awesome. I am going to try it this evening. I did not get the two relays.....yet. Second time I've seen that reco, so I am on it.

It's a smart move to replace the relays too. It often has to do with the starter being so expensive. Often one can tell if the problem is relay related by removing the 3 long bolts (or is it 4) that hold the old starter togeather. Once the rear cover is separated by an air gap, is there any smell of the starter getting fried ???

[Lcoles]

Is the GL1500 relay sold, on GoldwingDocs, the same one for the GL1800?

[GoldWingrGreg]

Is the GL1500 relay sold, on GoldwingDocs, the same one for the GL1800?

To tell ... type the part number in here and click on the "where used" link. The 'A', 'B' relays for 5th gens have different part numbers.

https://www.mrcycles.com

[Lcoles]

@GoldWingrGreg: Thanks for the tip. I was able to conquer reinstalling the Reverse Shift Arm and Lost motion spring.

Now for the next challenge... rear master cylinder/pivot arm assembly. "It just won't go in." Okay, after a couple of hours I gotta ask: Is the inside end of the shaft grooved? When I could get the pivot arm in the correct position while holding the water hose out of the way, I could get the pivot arm assembly on the shaft; it just wouldn't go in. When I test the insert angle from the outside, the post easily goes in. But every time I get the pivot arm aligned with the shaft on the inside, I cannot get it to go in. Once again, is there a trick/tip?

[Lcoles]

Success again! I got the rear master cylinder/pivot arm assembly and rear brake installed. I took this opportunity to rerun some wires; then, on the next challenge... The Relays (A & B)

After loosening the left saddlebag, I was able to access both relays. I replaced B without really paying attention . As I installed the new A switch, I noticed the wiring (see pic below).

I am a novice at circuits, but I kind of understand the flow of current, and this looks backward. How concerned should I be, or more appropriately, do I need to cut and flip the end? (Which subsequently means potentially doing the same for switch B)

[Rambozo]

Those are the wires to the coils. They are not really polarity specific in this application. Not to worry.

[WingAdmin]

Is the GL1500 relay sold, on GoldwingDocs, the same one for the GL1800?

No, it is not. The GL1800 relays are much smaller, generic (and much cheaper) relays!

[Lcoles]

IT WORKS!!!!...... Almost. Well, I was able to put everything back together.

I was pleasantly surprised and relieved that the bike lit up with full power and started immediately. The initial problem was resolved. In the process, I replaced the battery, the starter, and both relays. I also took the opportunity to rerun some wires from past mods and added the battery meter you see above.

Upon completing a functions check on the bike, I did find one remaining issue: No Rear brakes. I presume this is a combination of air in the lines and low brake fluid. It is most likely a result of having to remove the rear brake master cylinder. My hope is adding some fluid and bleeding the line will resolve this issue. We will see. MTF

Thanks for the responses and assistance thus far. I am certain I could not have completed this repair without your help. I will follow up once I have worked on the rear brakes.

[GoldWingrGreg]

Here, to replace the stater, we unbolt the 2 m/c bolts, but we don't remove it or the brake lever piviot assy. Often when pulling engines for transmission repair, or other issues, well unbolt the resevior and tie it loosely to the upper frame-rail , and always in an upright position so that no air is introduced into its resevior hose. But if that happens, the trick is to gently squeeze the resevior hose from the m/c end, working upwards towards the resevior with a set of needle-nose pliers. If the cap is off, sometimes we'll see bubbles being released from the hose. We'd only do that after both the m/c and reservior are remounted.

[GoldWingrGreg]

As for your new relay from the picture above. I just looked at a new one that I have in stock, and my 35860-MCA-A61 looks the same. Although we'd always like new on old wire coloring to match, with Honda, sometimes it does not.

Glad to hear that your Wing is starting as expected. Be sure to check your reverse cable adjustment.

[Lcoles]

Just wanted to check back in (had to actually work at my real job). Yes, I am back running. I noticed that my rear brakes would bump up (3-4 pumps) and stop the bike; but only after 3-4 pumps. I did buy a brake bleeder and went through the process of changing the brake fluid. The front brakes once drained, refilled, and bleed feel great. The rear brakes, not so much. They work great after 3-4 pumps to stop the bike. But once stopped, and I get off the pedal they will need to be pumped 3-4x before I can use them to stop.

I am going to go through the air bleeding process again to see if that's the issue. Does this sound like an "air in the lines" issue?